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Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad
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AKboulderer


Jun 15, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad
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I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply.


AKboulderer


rnevius


Jun 15, 2011, 1:04 PM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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ABC Huevos, basically the same thing and $14 less. I wouldn't call them "best for trad," but they are a better deal than the stoppers

http://www.gearexpress.biz/...mp;Product_Code=6800


(This post was edited by rnevius on Jun 15, 2011, 1:05 PM)


moose_droppings


Jun 15, 2011, 1:41 PM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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AKboulderer wrote:
I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply.


AKboulderer

It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts


surfstar


Jun 15, 2011, 2:04 PM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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AKboulderer wrote:
I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply.


AKboulderer

$58.49 or 4-13 http://www.alssports.com/...AAKEAKDGMHDP/Product

Spend enough to get free shipping


Partner j_ung


Jun 15, 2011, 3:39 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
AKboulderer wrote:
I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply.


AKboulderer

It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts

<3 Wallnuts and Peanuts


bearbreeder


Jun 15, 2011, 11:57 PM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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huevos are almost the same as BD stoppers ... just cheaper

i prefer DMM offsets myself

it all depends on yr preference and where you climb ...


porthillsclimber


Jun 16, 2011, 1:06 AM
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if you want the best i would go for a set of DMM wallnut and a set of offsets. you will probably pay more for DMM than BD though.


crw5074


Jun 16, 2011, 2:19 AM
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DMM offsets!


(This post was edited by crw5074 on Jun 16, 2011, 2:19 AM)


ianwatson


Jun 17, 2011, 6:39 AM
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i have camp, i got them cheap and they work fine.


rtwilli4


Jun 17, 2011, 8:23 AM
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You can't beat the value of the ABC Huevos. They were my first set of stoppers and I still have them. Get them if you're on a budget.

If you're not, go DMM. I've climbed plenty of pitches w/ just the offsets and never really thought "man I wish I had some standard shaped nuts." The Wallnuts also rock, but I've had complaints that they aren't as easy to clean...


healyje


Jun 17, 2011, 10:30 AM
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In the end it comes down to rock type and competency. Rock type for natural fit to nut geometry; competency for being able to use the advantages of any given [subtle] design feature to its fullest. In the beginning pretty much any of them will work fine for you.


cellige


Jun 17, 2011, 10:39 AM
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Re: [healyje] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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I believe the metolius curve nuts to basically be the perfect nut design. 3 points of contact, straight taper for correct holding friction that is not variable and the ability to fit small flares of varying degree. If only they had some bigger sizes...

Cheers!


Colinhoglund


Jun 17, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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Like with most gear it's all about what your used to. I like BD because that is what I and my friends use. I however have one friend who has wallnuts and loves them. Purely because I'm not used to their sizing I prefer BD. However if I really wanted to, I could get used to em and would like them I'm sure.
As per best set? Anything with a reasonable amount of curvature on both sides will work fine. There are some strait taper nuts out there, avoid them accept for in the smallest sizes. (ie. Bd 1-3 are strait). Look around at your local crag and see if there is a local favourite.


deschamps1000


Jun 17, 2011, 12:23 PM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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If this is your first set of nuts don't buy offsets. Eventually you may want them but start with a normal set.

That is - as long as your local climbing area is not pinned out.


kennoyce


Jun 17, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Blue ones, the red ones are better for sport.


billcoe_


Jun 17, 2011, 3:40 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts

Yup. Wallnuts are my personal choices as well. The Wallnuts are the lightest for the size (have the best strength to weight ratio I think), and are tapered one way to fit into offset/tapered cracks very well. However, I like and use the more radically tapered DMM (HB) offsets of all sizes often. Own 2 sets of large and 4 sets of the brass offsets and have on rare times used all of them on some routes before.

It was pointed out to me that the Wild Countrys are the best because if you miss the fit, all you have to do is turn it 90 degrees and the larger size is the next size stopper's narrow size. For new folks learning, that is a great feature, plus they are a very good product with excellent taper that you would still enjoy placing even once you are no longer a noob.

That being said, the BD and ABC's are everywhere, and your partners will most likely have experience with them. Knowing the color/size correlation can increase your speed of placement and on occasion mean the difference between dropping it in perfect and clipping or pumping out.


kikitastrophe


Jun 18, 2011, 5:17 AM
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Re: [AKboulderer] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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I definitely prefer the wild country rocks - the stopper portion is longer than any other of the nuts leaving more potential for contact and a longer taper...

http://www.spadout.com/p/wild-country-rocks-nuts-set/


phillygoat


Jun 18, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Agree with the Wild Country recommendation- the longer taper is nice.

These and a set of Offsets and you're good to go!


shockabuku


Jun 18, 2011, 2:39 PM
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Here's another option - I'm not sure why I never see these or hear anyone say anything good about them.Crazy

http://shop.gear4rocks.com/...f-eight/prod_50.html


Khoi


Jun 18, 2011, 3:24 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Need expert advice, What stoppers are best for trad [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Here's another option - I'm not sure why I never see these or hear anyone say anything good about them.Crazy
[image]http://shop.gear4rocks.com/images/uploads/f04.8nuts-p.jpg[/image]
http://shop.gear4rocks.com/...f-eight/prod_50.html

Because you don't read the Mountain Project forums?

http://mountainproject.com/...uts-review/107026062


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