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Danx


Jun 14, 2011, 12:47 PM
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squierbypetzl
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Jun 16, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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If your question is focused mainly on the gear and protection aspects of sport climbing, get your hands on a copy of Freedom of the hills. You'll notice right away that it's a virtual encyclopedia on mountaineering, not just sport climbing, but why limit yourself to knowing only about sport climbing? Most of the principles applied to trad climbing apply to sport as well (building/setting up an equalized 2 point anchor, etc.). In the end, all that "extra" knowledge won't make you any heavier and can only make you a safer, better climber.

If your intent is to learn more about movement and training for sport climbing, then the Self coached climber is will help you to no end.

If you merely want to learn how to climb and descend fully bolted routes (sport climb), then you're much better off getting somebody to teach you. If you're a cool, easy going person who's fun to be around, you'll find there are lots of climbers who'll be willing to show you the ropes. You can either spend the day as someone's belay slave or pay an instructor (be sure to get someone who's qualified either way).


danhague


Jun 16, 2011, 9:50 AM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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Look for our second book entitled "Redpoint: The Self Coached Climbers Guide to Redpoint and On-sight Climbing" due out in October.


We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.

We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing.


Danx


Jun 16, 2011, 10:33 AM
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rtwilli4


Jun 17, 2011, 8:33 AM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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How can the SCC not be enough sport information for you? I've read it like three times!

If you are looking for an entertaining story about sport climbing... well I don't think that exists in book form. At least I hope it doesn't!


Danx


Jun 17, 2011, 9:03 AM
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rtwilli4


Jun 17, 2011, 9:08 AM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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Those aren't really specific to sport climbing.

Falcon Guides makes a series of "how to" books... maybe you'll find some good info in there. Also, Rockfax is pretty popular here in the UK. "Sport Climbing +" might be a good read. http://www.rockfax.com/...ooks/item.php?id=129

But don't expect any of them to tell you any tricks to keep the rope from getting behind your legs. I'm not sure what more instruction you need other than "don't let the rope get caught behind your leg."


jt512


Jun 17, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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Danx wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
How can the SCC not be enough sport information for you? I've read it like three times!

If you are looking for an entertaining story about sport climbing... well I don't think that exists in book form. At least I hope it doesn't!

SCC is great for technique and still keep going back to it! but its not really a sport book. was more after something, which is instructive like avoiding rope behind your legs, clipping position, how to clear routes if you need to bail out halfway through etc

You might try a book called Climbing: From Gym to Crag, which you should be able to get from Amazon.

Jay


matterunomama


Jun 20, 2011, 3:26 PM
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Re: [Danx] Decent sport/lead book [In reply to]
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The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers by Arno Ilgner. Some people find the eastern philosophy stuff tiresome, but it does have some valuable insights. You can preview it on Amazon.


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