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Croft, Rands and the Hulk
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Partner j_ung


Jun 15, 2011, 5:46 AM
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Croft, Rands and the Hulk
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Just saw this vid, which I found on EVOLV's website. I think this is one of the most enjoyable climbing videos I've ever seen. Lisa's struggles and humility with a style of climbing and in an environment that are somewhat new to her are what drew me in, but damn, the climbing is spectacular, too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 15, 2011, 5:48 AM)


Partner devkrev


Jun 15, 2011, 6:26 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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It kind of reminds me of that part of King Lines when Chris Sharma climbed the Moonlight Buttress at Zion......



'cept he didn't really struggle.......at all.


That there Hulk is one fine piece of stone though I must say.

I can't wait for all the 5.8 trad climbers to chime in....


satch


Jun 15, 2011, 6:27 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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Great video. Thanks for posting.


altelis


Jun 15, 2011, 6:36 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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I saw that a couple weeks ago, and watched it twice, back to back. And next break, I'm watching it again! Its really a rad video.

My real introduction to alpine/mountaineering was on a NOLS trip to the Waddington Range, when I was in high school. Our small group was going to climb Minaret Peaks. We made it over the 'schrund, up the long steep snow couloir. We just had a short rock pitch from the top of the couloir (which ended in a sheer 2000' drop on the other side), which would put us on the rock ridge to the summit. Half-way up the pitch, leading in her plastics, our instructor shout's out "5.6 my ass! Hosed by Croft again!". She put in a pin, lowered, and we retreated. That was the first time I ever heard his name, and I can't help but smile and remember that trip every time I hear his name.


Partner devkrev


Jun 15, 2011, 7:14 AM
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Re: [altelis] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
I saw that a couple weeks ago, and watched it twice, back to back. And next break, I'm watching it again! Its really a rad video.

My real introduction to alpine/mountaineering was on a NOLS trip to the Waddington Range, when I was in high school. Our small group was going to climb Minaret Peaks. We made it over the 'schrund, up the long steep snow couloir. We just had a short rock pitch from the top of the couloir (which ended in a sheer 2000' drop on the other side), which would put us on the rock ridge to the summit. Half-way up the pitch, leading in her plastics, our instructor shout's out "5.6 my ass! Hosed by Croft again!". She put in a pin, lowered, and we retreated. That was the first time I ever heard his name, and I can't help but smile and remember that trip every time I hear his name.



The best part about that comment is "Again!"

I wonder how many times that happened to her. Laugh


dev


milesenoell


Jun 15, 2011, 8:44 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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I can't believe that cam held!


johnwesely


Jun 15, 2011, 9:02 AM
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milesenoell wrote:
I can't believe that cam held!

I can. It was a small fall on a big cam. They tend to hold in the wonkiest of placements.


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2011, 9:29 AM
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Yes, that was an awesome vid. I was holding my breath watching her try to stuff that cam. great!


moose_droppings


Jun 15, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Great find, thanks Jay.

Lisa Rands, "Holy shit!"

Peter Croft has got to be one of the most down to earth persons in the climbing world IMO.


Partner cracklover


Jun 15, 2011, 11:35 AM
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It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO


potreroed


Jun 15, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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Yeah, and it would also be good to have top climbers promoting the use of helmets, especially on long routes where anything can happen.


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2011, 12:55 PM
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cracklover wrote:
It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO

heh. I forgot about that, but remember thinking the same thing.

If you are freeing .12+ in the backcountry at 13,000 feet, you are on the cutting edge.


swoopee


Jun 15, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.


dagibbs


Jun 15, 2011, 11:09 PM
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Awesome! Thanks for linking that.


enigma


Jun 16, 2011, 12:21 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
Great find, thanks Jay.

Lisa Rands, "Holy shit!"

Peter Croft has got to be one of the most down to earth persons in the climbing world IMO.


Crossroads Joshua tree- ( People in awe, do you know who that is?)
( Well no) It's Peter Croft !

So I walk up to him casually
Want to climb with me?
Sure. Where do you want to climb
I can climb only up to mid 10's
well, I know a great climb one of my favorites
Breakfast of Champions1
So myself and my current bf /partner go to the wonderland with Peter
Its kinda tough for a 10 c?
manage to hangdog up
He solos
Super sweet, Crush alert!

Gee (thinking how can we climb alone?
Oh well, nice guy, very down to earth! (think he's married with children) For now!


terr


Jun 16, 2011, 2:45 AM
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It is so great,like it


donald949


Jun 17, 2011, 1:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote:
Yes, that was an awesome vid. I was holding my breath watching her try to stuff that cam. great!
I watched that part 3 times.
Was relieved when it held.
Great video.
Very well put together.
Then I watched a related video of her "bouldering" in Bishop. Haha. Pretty high up.


rtwilli4


Jun 17, 2011, 3:22 PM
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Interesting to see Lisa Rands (one of my favorites btw) go into the same "bad technique mode" that I go into, using crap holds and just moving the gear around hoping that the rock will reach out and grab it.

Of course I do that a few NUMBER grades below her.


bearbreeder


Jun 18, 2011, 10:24 AM
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no better way to learn (get destroyed) than climbing with a legend like mr croft ...

when i see crofts name as the FA on a route in squamish ... i say to myself ... "shiet its gonna be a hella epic climb"


hafilax


Jun 18, 2011, 4:50 PM
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I cursed the name Croft the whole way up the Milk Run corner crack.


mr.tastycakes


Jun 21, 2011, 9:44 AM
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awesome video. It's wild that Lisa is basically learning to trad climb on a 5.12+ alpine wall.

Oh, and they're using grigris. What a bunch of noobs.


hafilax


Jun 21, 2011, 11:36 AM
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mr.tastycakes wrote:
awesome video. It's wild that Lisa is basically learning to trad climb on a 5.12+ alpine wall.

Oh, and they're using grigris. What a bunch of noobs.
How could that tipped out cam possibly have held with a GriGri? Croft must be a wizard.


RobAT


Jun 21, 2011, 6:15 PM
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Did anyone else feel Peter Croft looked a little sketched at around 6:20?
(The part where he was fiddling with gear while holding on with two fingers of one hand and smearing his feet on frosty granite)

Five star movie!


dagibbs


Jun 21, 2011, 8:48 PM
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RobAT wrote:
Did anyone else feel Peter Croft looked a little sketched at around 6:20?
(The part where he was fiddling with gear while holding on with two fingers of one hand and smearing his feet on frosty granite)

Five star movie!

Nah, he looked fine. Calmly placing a little tiny wire, then doing some hard moves. Or, at least to me, he looked fine.


DuckBeard


Jun 21, 2011, 10:32 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Croft, Rands and the Hulk [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
It is a great vid, and it really paints a gorgeous and sweet portrait of Rands, Croft, the climb, and the high Sierra. All four come off very well.

I will say one thing that kind of bugged me, though. When Lisa says "to take like 15 steps backward in your climbing so you can try to get better". I infer from that that she's referring to the difference between 12+ and V11. It is indeed 15 steps backward in terms of physical difficulty, but many steps forward from a boulder to a 1,200 foot wall that is gear protected in terms of a wide range of skills and climbing tactics. I know she knows that since she used the phrase "to try to get better", but it does stick in my craw a little.

It seems to me that it would be fairer to say that a clean ascent of that route is at least comparable, not 15 steps back, to a really hard boulder problem.

GO

I thought she was implying that she was taking steps back in terms of her going from being a beast of a boulderer to a complete alpine climbing newb.

Either way, I really enjoyed the video.


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