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cal32
Jun 22, 2011, 8:52 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2010
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an area where I started climbing recently has a number of anchors that only have hangers at the top, no quick links no chains.
Is it considered safe practice to rap off bare hangers via a tied piece of webbing with a rap ring, one per hanger? My main concern is could the the hanger cut through the webbing...
For better or for worse that's what I've done for now, intending to come back and install chains. Should I just grab a length of random steel chain from the hardware store and attach with quick links?
thx
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csproul
Jun 22, 2011, 9:04 PM
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cal32 wrote: an area where I started climbing recently has a number of anchors that only have hangers at the top, no quick links no chains. Is it considered safe practice to rap off bare hangers via a tied piece of webbing with a rap ring, one per hanger? My main concern is could the the hanger cut through the webbing... For better or for worse that's what I've done for now, intending to come back and install chains. Should I just grab a length of random steel chain from the hardware store and attach with quick links? thx
My opinion is that tied webbing on the hangers is not a good long term solution.
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spikeddem
Jun 22, 2011, 9:04 PM
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Do not mess with anchors in a place you just showed up to. I wouldn't rearrange your furniture if I came over to your house, would I? "When in Rome . . ."
Talk to the locals that know the answers, not us random people on the internet.
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rock_fencer
Jun 22, 2011, 9:07 PM
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is it a safe practice, In the short term yes, int he long term no. It is much better to have links/chain/rings for a permanent anchor.
That being said if these routes do not get frequented often then its common practice to swap old webbing with new webbing.
I also second talking to the developers of the area. Do not just go put up random chains on anchors, they are hideous to start off with without getting into the potential for issues with different metals etc...
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cal32
Jun 22, 2011, 9:56 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2010
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rock_fencer wrote: is it a safe practice, In the short term yes, int he long term no. It is much better to have links/chain/rings for a permanent anchor. That being said if these routes do not get frequented often then its common practice to swap old webbing with new webbing.
cool thanks
rock_fencer wrote: I also second talking to the developers of the area. Do not just go put up random chains on anchors, they are hideous to start off with without getting into the potential for issues with different metals etc...
okay I think this area was developed in the 90s, it's got about the bare minimum of bolting in place. So my general impression on the anchors I've run into that are hanger only is the original developers did the bare min to get things developed, and left it for others to finish off if desired.
They would have had to carry a lot of gear quite some distance to get done what they did, not sure how to contact anyone who develops in this area I'll see what I can do.
I'm just happy to do my small part, not looking to screw things up.
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rock_fencer
Jun 22, 2011, 10:17 PM
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if they did the bare minimum then u should respect that and keep it bare minimum. If you want to add to existing anchors then add SS quicklinks, or if the area was really developed int he 90's and you know how to bolt, then redo the anchors completely with SS hardware.
Otherwise i would stick to natural toned anchors (grey/Black/ faded orange) if its sandstone. The only issue is repeated lowerings WILL saw through the webbing if its on a hanger only. Also make sure that any webbing anchor is not an American death triangle.
Try not to use stuff from home depot
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donald949
Jun 22, 2011, 10:24 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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It was common to install bolts with just hangers back in the day. Not really considered unfinished. Yes we rapped off them. Not ideal for sure. Thats why those fat hangers SP mentioned were developed. Also webbing with or with out rings were often slung to rap off of. Colors that matched the rock or otherwise blended in where considered best. Although on low anchors on NP's near tourists, those were sometimes considered unsightly too.
However, with the proliferation of rap bolting and sport climbing, much more robust anchors were installed.
It is good of you to want to install chains with quick links to improve the anchors. But there are a number of concerns to see clear of first. Sometimes other local users, birders rangers etc, object to the hardware. Sometimes the FA party. In either case, as others have noted, try to deal with the local climbing scene to see what the deal is. If this are is somewhat remote with little attention or no regular crowd this may be a slow task. But if that is the case, then its no real hurry to upgrade either.
Don
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