Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Rapping of hangers and installing chains
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


cal32


Jun 22, 2011, 1:52 PM
Post #1 of 7 (1299 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 16, 2010
Posts: 25

Rapping of hangers and installing chains
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

an area where I started climbing recently has a number of anchors that only have hangers at the top, no quick links no chains.

Is it considered safe practice to rap off bare hangers via a tied piece of webbing with a rap ring, one per hanger? My main concern is could the the hanger cut through the webbing...

For better or for worse that's what I've done for now, intending to come back and install chains. Should I just grab a length of random steel chain from the hardware store and attach with quick links?

thx


csproul


Jun 22, 2011, 2:04 PM
Post #2 of 7 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [cal32] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cal32 wrote:
an area where I started climbing recently has a number of anchors that only have hangers at the top, no quick links no chains.

Is it considered safe practice to rap off bare hangers via a tied piece of webbing with a rap ring, one per hanger? My main concern is could the the hanger cut through the webbing...

For better or for worse that's what I've done for now, intending to come back and install chains. Should I just grab a length of random steel chain from the hardware store and attach with quick links?

thx
If there are only chains, then I'd assume that there is either a) another way down (a separate rap station, or a walk off perhaps?) or b) they are the fat hanger that are intentionally designed to be able to thread a rope through for rappelling or c) someone stole the chains/rings.

My opinion is that tied webbing on the hangers is not a good long term solution.


spikeddem


Jun 22, 2011, 2:04 PM
Post #3 of 7 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [cal32] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Do not mess with anchors in a place you just showed up to. I wouldn't rearrange your furniture if I came over to your house, would I? "When in Rome . . ."

Talk to the locals that know the answers, not us random people on the internet.


rock_fencer


Jun 22, 2011, 2:07 PM
Post #4 of 7 (1278 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [cal32] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

is it a safe practice, In the short term yes, int he long term no. It is much better to have links/chain/rings for a permanent anchor.

That being said if these routes do not get frequented often then its common practice to swap old webbing with new webbing.

I also second talking to the developers of the area. Do not just go put up random chains on anchors, they are hideous to start off with without getting into the potential for issues with different metals etc...


cal32


Jun 22, 2011, 2:56 PM
Post #5 of 7 (1253 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 16, 2010
Posts: 25

Re: [rock_fencer] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rock_fencer wrote:
is it a safe practice, In the short term yes, int he long term no. It is much better to have links/chain/rings for a permanent anchor.

That being said if these routes do not get frequented often then its common practice to swap old webbing with new webbing.

cool thanks

rock_fencer wrote:
I also second talking to the developers of the area. Do not just go put up random chains on anchors, they are hideous to start off with without getting into the potential for issues with different metals etc...

okay I think this area was developed in the 90s, it's got about the bare minimum of bolting in place. So my general impression on the anchors I've run into that are hanger only is the original developers did the bare min to get things developed, and left it for others to finish off if desired.

They would have had to carry a lot of gear quite some distance to get done what they did, not sure how to contact anyone who develops in this area I'll see what I can do.

I'm just happy to do my small part, not looking to screw things up.


rock_fencer


Jun 22, 2011, 3:17 PM
Post #6 of 7 (1242 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752

Re: [cal32] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if they did the bare minimum then u should respect that and keep it bare minimum. If you want to add to existing anchors then add SS quicklinks, or if the area was really developed int he 90's and you know how to bolt, then redo the anchors completely with SS hardware.

Otherwise i would stick to natural toned anchors (grey/Black/ faded orange) if its sandstone. The only issue is repeated lowerings WILL saw through the webbing if its on a hanger only. Also make sure that any webbing anchor is not an American death triangle.

Try not to use stuff from home depot


donald949


Jun 22, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #7 of 7 (1237 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455

Re: [cal32] Rapping of hangers and installing chains [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It was common to install bolts with just hangers back in the day. Not really considered unfinished. Yes we rapped off them. Not ideal for sure. Thats why those fat hangers SP mentioned were developed. Also webbing with or with out rings were often slung to rap off of. Colors that matched the rock or otherwise blended in where considered best. Although on low anchors on NP's near tourists, those were sometimes considered unsightly too.
However, with the proliferation of rap bolting and sport climbing, much more robust anchors were installed.
It is good of you to want to install chains with quick links to improve the anchors. But there are a number of concerns to see clear of first. Sometimes other local users, birders rangers etc, object to the hardware. Sometimes the FA party. In either case, as others have noted, try to deal with the local climbing scene to see what the deal is. If this are is somewhat remote with little attention or no regular crowd this may be a slow task. But if that is the case, then its no real hurry to upgrade either.
Don


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook