The SCC is an excellent book and I don't think that a V4/V5 boulderer is even close to a point of not needing more movement training. That's about what I boulder and I still do the exercises and re-read sections of the book on a weekly basis. And now that I think about it I think the book has helped my bouldering more than my route climbing. That is to say, the information has obviously helped me increase the hardest moves I can do, and I'm still learning how to apply it to longer routes.

Moreover, a lot of the content focuses of the physical and biological aspect of training. You will learn a lot about how your body works while you are climbing, and why you feel the way you do before, during and after. With this information you will be able to come up with specific training plans to target your problem areas.

IE, you might be able to do powerful moves well early in the problem, but have a hard time sustaining that power throughout a long sustained problem. Or maybe you're too wasted to climb during the last third of the day, when you're friends are still sending.

9 out of 10... is also one of the best books out there, and it covers a wider range of subjects, but in some ways is more specific than the SCC. I don't think either is better for bouldering (or any climbing) than the other. They are very different, both excellent and compliment each other well. Any climber would benefit from both.

I agree. The concepts in The Self-Coached Climber apply to climbing in general, and that includes bouldering. Topics such as the mechanics of movement and training your brain to attend to what's important while climbing, how and why your body works the way it does while climbing and how to maximize these systems are all topics that can be applied to bouldering just as easily as more sustained climbing. It helps a lot with improving movement and techique, which is what you're primarily challenged with in bouldering. So, I think it would be an excellent book for someone who wants to improve at bouldering.

Why is your name so horridly misleading?. To the point where you are my 3rd most valued poster.

Why is your name so horridly misleading?. To the point where you are my 3rd most valued poster.

Are Jay and I #2 and #1?

If jay wrote a program to automatically one star all ceebo's posts . . .

Ive been thinking about buying the self coached climber but I wasnt sure how much of the material would be relevent to bouldering. I figured most the technique would but i wasnt sure about the training exercises. Is there a better book for boulderers? I climb v4/5

When I am working with boulderers at the V9 and higher range I find that i spend most of my time using information found in the first chapter of the SCC. Further I have yet to find a boulderer who had complete knowledge of the movement skills detailed in the first third of the book. Even V12 climbers don't see all the movement possibilities in every situation.

As for training activities there is a degree to which if a boulderer only knew how to do CIR and VIR that would be enough to keep him making progress for a long time. At the V4 / V5 level you are still making a lot of mistakes in your movement and most likely don't have much climbing specific fitness. I would suggest spending 80% of your time doing CIR / VIR and 20% working at a level 1 - 2 v grades above your max CIR level.

Here is the thing boulderers often spend a great deal of time projecting at or near their limit. This means that they are consistently working high above their base level of skills and fitness, further constant projecting means that climbers are getting a low volume of climbing in during any given session and the quality of that climbing is not very high. With CIR and VIR the climber is working closer to their base level of fitness and movement skills and getting a high volume of high quality practice in each session. This fosters long term improvement, and helps avoid getting stuck at a specific level.
VERY WELL SAID ; I find myself in the gym watching others ,and thinking in my head man I want to get stronger and climb them v7s on the overhanging wall ..But today my partners wher all to busy to go outside so Im at the gym , this big guy was talking about how he did 4-v5 and two v6 and thats about his limit ,now at this point I have done about 10 v0and v1's ,then I moved to some v2's and a few v3's to push my muscle beyond the pump . basicly I was adapting the 4x4 method . at the start of my work out a I picked a v0 I have done before ,,climbed up climb down climbed up clim down clim up clim down climup climdown ,,,,,rest for 5 minutes shakeing out arms ,lol,,, no rest in between,, Also when training at the gym if possible ,I will top rope the hardest route I can for the stamina aspect

thanx ,,ya something went wrong in the quote . To properly puncute would be like writeing a book. And not speaking. It is the internet and is a forum ,thus makeing for conversation . I wounder what the world be like if we spoke out our punctuation . blah,blah,blah,comma,piffblah blah period. Anyway thanx again for your input .

To properly puncute would be like writeing a book. And not speaking. It is the internet and is a forum ,thus makeing for conversation

If jay wrote a program to automatically one star all ceebo's posts he would be my #1

thanx ,,ya something went wrong in the quote . To properly puncute would be like writeing a book. And not speaking. It is the internet and is a forum ,thus makeing for conversation . I wounder what the world be like if we spoke out our punctuation . blah,blah,blah,comma,piffblah blah period. Anyway thanx again for your input .

I'd definitely focus less on climbing and moron how to articulate yourself.