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aid climbing free routes
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alpinelynx


Jan 2, 2003, 7:59 PM
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aid climbing free routes
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Okay, I am not a great free climber. shucks, I'm not a great anything climber, but I'm okay with this, I have fun. With all of this emphasis on free ascents of aid lines, I was wondering, does anyone go out and aid climb free lines?

This thought occured to me while talking with a (ahem) pompous climbing shop employee. I made a joke about aiding a classic hard free climb and he looked blankly at me and informed me that would be fine, as long as nobody was trying to free it.

opinions? is this kosher?



wonderbread


Jan 2, 2003, 8:08 PM
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Yes, it is kosher and it is how many climbers first learn to aid. Quite a common practice really. However, it is not kosher to do said practice on a busy day when someone may want to free climb the route. A few things to be aware of though-don't hook anything that could potentially break. Don't nail, clean aid only, and free climbers have the right of way on these routes, their ascent takes far less time than someone aiding the same line. Have fun.


stevematthys


Jan 2, 2003, 8:09 PM
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that is how i learned to aid climb. i went out to a 5.10 crack that took good pro and aid climbed it.


apollodorus


Jan 2, 2003, 8:17 PM
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Everything but adding bolts or pounding pins that aren't necessary is fair game.

Many free climbers will try to pretend that they have first rights, but letting them pass is entirely up to you.

Here's a cheap hint: if you aid free climbs in Yosemite Valley, bring a copy of the 30 year old "Climber's Guide To Yosemite Valley". That way, when you get hassled for aiding up and blocking traffic on Astroman, you can turn to the page that calls it the North Face of the Washington Column (V 5.9 A4), and pretend you've never heard the word Astroman in your entire life. You're just doing a classic Warren Harding wall as a tune-up for the Nose.


crack_head


Jan 2, 2003, 8:22 PM
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alpinelynx


Jan 2, 2003, 8:35 PM
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I was wondering what excuse I would use on that climb..

where can I get that book?


wonderbread


Jan 2, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Letting a free climbing party pass, is entirely up to you, however, not letting them pass as you spend hours on a pitch fumbling around and dropping gear on them is not the slighest bit cool. Let them pass.


apollodorus


Jan 2, 2003, 9:56 PM
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Yes, letting the other guys pass is the right thing to do, but don't let them use your head as a cheater foothold. And don't let yourself get bullied. You have as much right to C1 a crack as they have to 5.10 it.

You can find the book on eBay, or in used book shops. Steve Roper is the author and it was published by the Sierra Club in 1971 (the last edition, I think).

As a bonus, it describes the routes, as opposed to having topos, and can offer a different perspective on what a route entails. And there are lots of routes, free and aid, that it has that I've never seen in any other guidebook. Most of those are not the best climbs out there, naturally.

Some of the descents from popular climbs are better described in Roper's book, too.


wallrat


Jan 7, 2003, 5:07 PM
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   DUDE< That Mr. Pretensious ding-dong "aids" any route where he yards down on a bolt or piece. Don't let him bother you...for most of us, the Nose is still an aid route...but Lynn Hill probably won't sniff at you if you bring your aiders on it.


pbjosh


Jan 7, 2003, 5:44 PM
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I figure that's a better way to do Astroman, as I'm starting to contemplate it but that little bit about "5.11b chickenwing dyno" still has me perplexed...

josh


alpinelynx


Jan 7, 2003, 5:49 PM
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well, thats about the only way I'd be doing it! at least, for the time being. I'll have to look into that book. I like older guides for the different kind of information and history presented. Supertopos are great for that too.


iamthewallress


Jan 10, 2003, 2:18 PM
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You live near one of the best places for practising aiding steep and easy A1 cracks. I'll give you hint...g----o. And when you get to the top, you can throw TR's down on all the 5.12's. Aiding there won't teach you about tricky placements, but you'll get efficient moving up in your aiders. Also, you can practice hooking on the l'il sport wall behind you. Clip the bolts as you go for good pro.

I don't think you were talking about aiding long, typically free long climbs. Most of them are too low angled and featured to allow for sane hauling.

My approach to learning...throw yourself at a wall until you stick. Works best when you do it w/ a really strong partner who can help you out and take up your slack. If you go it alone, evenually you'll stick, but it might take a few tries. (Might take a few tries anyway.)


alpinelynx


Jan 10, 2003, 5:39 PM
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hey thanks, I forgot all about the G and all of the cracks there. It would be a way for me to get the TR up on rawhide. hooking the sport wall? Now thats an idea for sure!

I was out driving by my house as well and found a boulder with a thin crack I can practice on too.


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