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j_ung
Jul 1, 2011, 11:59 AM
Post #27 of 55
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macherry wrote: jt512 wrote: stealth wrote: jt512 wrote: Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands. Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. Jay He doesn't understand ! El no comprende You can just stay on rockclimbing.com , much safer indeed! Hi, Enigma. Jay they always come back (tm)
Did I miss something?
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taydude
Jul 1, 2011, 1:39 PM
Post #28 of 55
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Standard commands are for when you cannot see your partner on multipitch or for a new partner. When you clip into the belay device you are on belay. You shouldn't need a special command to start belaying.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 1, 2011, 5:01 PM
Post #29 of 55
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Highgloss wrote: He means the force of gravity when you hit the ground lol. I think we have all seen Starwars...
No shit.....
So, if we have all seen Star Wars, then why would the person have felt the need to ask the question?
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Highgloss
Jul 1, 2011, 5:18 PM
Post #30 of 55
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Unfortunately some people feel this is a battle ground not a educational tool :(
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sungam
Jul 1, 2011, 5:27 PM
Post #31 of 55
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happiegrrrl wrote: Highgloss wrote: He means the force of gravity when you hit the ground lol. I think we have all seen Starwars... No shit..... So, if we have all seen Star Wars, then why would the person have felt the need to ask the question?
ARE YOU KIDDING ME?
That was so blatently a joke I myself feel like a fucking idiot just for stating that fact.
Seriously, I hope I am getting railed full of troll dick right now, such is my despair at humanities complete inability to "get" a joke.
uuuuuuuuugggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh *facepalm**facepalm**facepalm**facepalm*
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jul 1, 2011, 5:30 PM
Post #32 of 55
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rtwilli4 wrote: Adam and I say "you with me?" - "I'm with ya." Gavin and I say "aight?" - "aight." Kent and I say "you got me?" - "yea, i got ya." My wife and I say "got me?" -" yup" Rob and I say... I can't even remember... "cheeseburger?" You get it?
I got a laugh a few years back when someone posted that they did their commands as a pirate. The sequence goes like this:
Arrr? Arrr!
Arrrrr? Arrrrrrr!
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jul 1, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #33 of 55
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Highgloss wrote: Unfortunately some people feel this is a battle ground not a educational tool :(
Love is a battle ground, RC.com is full of tools, and deleting an OP is very bad form.
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stealth
Jul 1, 2011, 10:26 PM
Post #34 of 55
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justroberto wrote: Once you've been climbing more than six months, you'll realize that there are basically four scenarios when climbing: 1. You and a primary partner, alone without distraction You start climbing when you're ready; your partner tells you to hold up if he's not. 2. You and a primary partner with distractions, or any other competent, non-primary partner Quick visual inspection, a head nod or "ready?", then start climbing after affirmation. 3. You and an inexperienced partner You either don't have them belay you or assume that you're free-soloing. Either way, commands don't matter. 4. You and some form of official, organized group You use proper commands, and feel like a giant goober for making a point of using/teaching them.
Take your family and friends out on the 4th for some rockclimbing. Have fun !
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swoopee
Jul 2, 2011, 12:28 AM
Post #35 of 55
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With people that I climb with regularly it is usually something like, "OK?", "OK.", and a glance to make sure they actually have me on belay. If we're in a crowded area then it's proper commands followed by the other person's name just to make sure.
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kriso9tails
Jul 2, 2011, 2:15 AM
Post #36 of 55
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Highgloss wrote: Thats the whole point. You think its silly to follow a standard saftey process and then splat. Sorry dude i didnt here you say "you got me?" it sounded "like look at this tree"....
Great point. Nine of every ten imaginary climbing issues are caused by bad rhymes.
"Why'd you start beating the shit out of me? All I said was 'climbing'"
"Oh, sorry dude; it sounded like 'miming'."
"I see. Fair enough."
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Learner
Jul 2, 2011, 2:47 AM
Post #37 of 55
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Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187
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So, why did you retract?
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notapplicable
Jul 2, 2011, 5:14 AM
Post #38 of 55
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: Highgloss wrote: Unfortunately some people feel this is a battle ground not a educational tool :( Love is a battle ground, RC.com is full of tools, and deleting an OP is very bad for um.
Fix?
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notapplicable
Jul 2, 2011, 5:15 AM
Post #39 of 55
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kriso9tails wrote: Highgloss wrote: Thats the whole point. You think its silly to follow a standard saftey process and then splat. Sorry dude i didnt here you say "you got me?" it sounded "like look at this tree".... Great point. Nine of every ten imaginary climbing issues are caused by bad rhymes. "Why'd you start beating the shit out of me? All I said was 'climbing'" "Oh, sorry dude; it sounded like 'miming'." "I see. Fair enough."
Hey, it's Kris!
*waves*
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sungam
Jul 2, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #40 of 55
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swoopee wrote: a glance to make sure they actually have me on belay.
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jt512
Jul 2, 2011, 4:52 PM
Post #41 of 55
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sungam wrote: swoopee wrote: a glance to make sure they actually have me on belay. Am I seriously the only person who checks my belayer's gate and that the belay is threaded (with a sharp tug if it's a grigri)?
I think it's rude to tug on the belayer, but I expect the belayer to tug on the rope and to demonstrate that the biner gate is locked while I'm watching before I climb.
Jay
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essay
Jul 2, 2011, 6:35 PM
Post #42 of 55
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If everyone uses the same commands it will cause chaos and lead to more not less dangerous situations. I have never in my 30+ years of climbing used the standard on belay schema with a competent climber. Its a good system for a total noob but for anyone who actually climbs it is archaic.
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stealth
Jul 2, 2011, 9:37 PM
Post #43 of 55
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sungam wrote: swoopee wrote: a glance to make sure they actually have me on belay. Am I seriously the only person who checks my belayer's gate and that the belay is threaded (with a sharp tug if it's a grigri)?
rite on nelly, she like big butt parradice. nock down
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rockforlife
Jul 3, 2011, 4:19 AM
Post #44 of 55
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Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563
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 yeah i got that i was just trying to make a joke...  o well not so great guess
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Nipple
Jul 3, 2011, 4:28 AM
Post #45 of 55
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Registered: Jun 4, 2011
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Nah, I am not telling you punter! You will steal my commands and I will have to come up with new ones. get you own. When bodies fall, gear is free. Maybe you can donate yours to me.
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sungam
Jul 4, 2011, 10:55 AM
Post #46 of 55
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jt512 wrote: sungam wrote: swoopee wrote: a glance to make sure they actually have me on belay. Am I seriously the only person who checks my belayer's gate and that the belay is threaded (with a sharp tug if it's a grigri)? I think it's rude to tug on the belayer, but I expect the belayer to tug on the rope and to demonstrate that the biner gate is locked while I'm watching before I climb. Jay
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jt512
Jul 4, 2011, 5:18 PM
Post #47 of 55
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sungam wrote: jt512 wrote: sungam wrote: swoopee wrote: a glance fto make sure they actually have me on belay. Am I seriously the only person who checks my belayer's gate and that the belay is threaded (with a sharp tug if it's a grigri)? I think it's rude to tug on the belayer, but I expect the belayer to tug on the rope and to demonstrate that the biner gate is locked while I'm watching before I climb. Jay Huh. All my usual partners do it to each other. Never really thought of it as being rude. Just something we do.
Aside from the rudeness, what I really want to know is if my belayer has checked how well the grigri catches the rope. When the belayer himself tugs on the rope he gets feedback on how well the grigri works with that particular rope. If the grigri does not catch the rope well, then he knows he'll have to be extra vigilient.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 5, 2011, 4:27 PM)
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sungam
Jul 5, 2011, 2:59 PM
Post #48 of 55
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jt512 wrote: what I really want to know is if my belayer has checked how well the grigri catches the rope. When the belayer himself tugs on the rope he gets feedback on well the grigri works with that particular rope. If the grigri does not catch the rope well, then he knows he'll have to be extra vigilient. Jay
I just like giving it a tug so it's 100% in my head that it's threaded correctly.
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wiki
Jul 6, 2011, 12:19 PM
Post #49 of 55
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
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sungam wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: Highgloss wrote: He means the force of gravity when you hit the ground lol. I think we have all seen Starwars... No shit..... So, if we have all seen Star Wars, then why would the person have felt the need to ask the question? ARE YOU KIDDING ME? That was so blatently a joke I myself feel like a fucking idiot just for stating that fact. Seriously, I hope I am getting railed full of troll dick right now, such is my despair at humanities complete inability to "get" a joke. uuuuuuuuugggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh *facepalm**facepalm**facepalm**facepalm*
Ummmm... I have NEVER seen Star Wars... is this a problem?
Seriously though... "Are you ready?"... "yep!"... "OK I'm off then"... It does the job... why make it complicated and robotic? I think accidents are caused by complacency. A scripted bullshit routine of climbing commands (which don't make any sense anyway) is a good way to become complacent!
If my partner is seconding, we come closer to standard commands... I yard in slack while he is putting his shoes on until I get a frantic "THATS ME!" as I try to haul him up the ciff one handed and instantly I reply "belay on" and I am belaying from that moment onwards. Often he will reply with "climbing" but it isn't neccesary at all... I am belaying and I do not care if he is still on the ground putting his shoes on or not...
EDIT TO ADD: The commands do not even matter in the second situation at all... I set my anchor, thread my belay device and yard up slack through my device. This is great when you cant hear or see your partner... I am not lazy or stupid for doing this and for not using commands... it is safer. I am belaying from the minute i have threaded my device and my partner will not climb untill he has tension anyway.
(This post was edited by wiki on Jul 6, 2011, 12:25 PM)
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sungam
Jul 6, 2011, 7:13 PM
Post #50 of 55
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wiki wrote: Ummmm... I have NEVER seen Star Wars... is this a problem?
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