Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
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pinscar


Nov 18, 2001, 10:04 AM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2005
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asdf
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theooze


Nov 25, 2001, 2:38 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2003
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Pinscar - Kansas City Faggots, pretty funny. I've seen you diligently answering all the newbie posts around here, so you deserve some answer. Since Dr. P may never make it back to reality - last time I complained he said my question was next in line after yours - lemme give it a stab.

Some of the drilled angle I saw on Prodigal last year looked like glue had been used, ever notice that?

It goes without saying that you could add some directional gear below the belay, so I assume you mean if that's not possible. And I don't see any way you can improve the situation in that case, except to tie the rope off to two or three of your aid placements early in the pitch. If your first couple of placements are bomber, just clove hitch each one as you go. You'd be increasing the fall factor on the rope for the rest of the pitch, but only slightly.

For that matter, I remember seeing a drawing in some climbing mag showing the rope tied off mid-pitch, on both sides of a sharp edge in order to avoid damage while soloing.

So, isn't the answer just to take a directional wherever you can get it?

Stu Hammett


elcapbuzz


Dec 2, 2001, 7:03 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Hey pinscar, I still have your haulbag. I know you want an answer to the sandtone anchor issue. Geuss what? There's not one. You could easily funk most of those belays out, as you well know. My suggestion to you is cut your bags, drop your rope and start crazy aid man style. Just kidding. I think.


passthepitonspete


Jan 10, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2001
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Here's a great link:

How to Place Drilled Angles


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


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