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younggun
Jul 11, 2011, 8:00 PM
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Has anyone tried PAP training for bouldering indoors? This would be for an advanced climber with excellent technique. I have seen the literature on how to train off the wall but has anyone designed a program or tried a PAP program on the wall, with any results when it comes to bouldering? I would assume after warm up, you would try some very hard slow static moves or problems at your limit, repeating 3-4 times in 5 minutes, followed by a 5-8 minute rest and then some more dynamic moves or problems at 70-80% of your limit, maybe sets of 4 problems, with 4-5 minute rest between 3 sets? The idea being to add power by doing hard strength first. Any comments or experience appreciated? Thanks.
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johnwesely
Jul 11, 2011, 8:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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younggun wrote: Has anyone tried PAP training for bouldering indoors? This would be for an advanced climber with excellent technique. I have seen the literature on how to train off the wall but has anyone designed a program or tried a PAP program on the wall, with any results when it comes to bouldering? I would assume after warm up, you would try some very hard slow static moves or problems at your limit, repeating 3-4 times in 5 minutes, followed by a 5-8 minute rest and then some more dynamic moves or problems at 70-80% of your limit, maybe sets of 4 problems, with 4-5 minute rest between 3 sets? The idea being to add power by doing hard strength first. Any comments or experience appreciated? Thanks. I don't get it. Could you explain?
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ghisino
Jul 12, 2011, 8:24 AM
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http://www.unm.edu/~lkravitz/Article%20folder/postactivationUNM.html interesting reading. never done something like this and never heard about it in climbing but probably worth a try. looks like it would be much easier to set up on a system wall though. another case could be maximal weighted pullups, followed by campusing... edit: no, i recall hearing about someone who does a few one-armers at the end of his warmup routine, to get "fully activated" or something like that...
(This post was edited by ghisino on Jul 12, 2011, 8:26 AM)
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ceebo
Jul 12, 2011, 12:37 PM
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So this is tricking the muscles into dumping/producing more energy during/after static exercise then using that excess energy during high power dynamic exercises?.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 12, 2011, 2:04 PM)
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