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flynnypek
Jan 3, 2003, 2:47 PM
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A friend of mine told me that the 8 is not very secure to belay. It is only a rappel device. He said that using an ATC or a grigri is better because it causes more friction and absorbs the impacts better.
What do you guys think about this?
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data118
Jan 3, 2003, 2:59 PM
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Your friend is correct, however you can use figure 8 to belay. Just use the smaller hole for more friction. Again, atc is better.
[ This Message was edited by: data118 on 2003-01-03 07:00 ]
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hangdoggypound
Jan 3, 2003, 3:06 PM
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Yes. I'd just like to add that I find the 8 to be easier when lowering someone. When belaying with a bite of rope through the smaller hole, lowering feels more secure because you just turn the 8 up and keep the brake hand behind your body. I just feel much better lowering that way than with an ATC.
yippee-keye-yo
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totigers
Jan 3, 2003, 3:09 PM
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I agree with data.
I started with the 8 but after using ATC's, I like them better because of the friction. I don't have to belay like I'm repelling. ATC's are more confortable too if you are belaying for long periods of time.
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one900johnnyk
Jan 3, 2003, 3:41 PM
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also 8's have the tendency to kink your rope and atc's do not
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josephine
Jan 3, 2003, 3:58 PM
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Not very secure,when you do not know how to belay with it.
Penny
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saagax
Jan 3, 2003, 4:05 PM
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I agree ATC feels more secure and absorbs more energy than figure 8, also grigri works very well but I don't like to belay or be belayed while leading.
This think about belaying with the grigri on the lead is being disscused in the General Forum.
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eshi-1
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Jan 3, 2003, 10:58 PM
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Well, your friend is partialy right.
A figure 8 is very safe and secure to use if you know how to do it right.
The 2 reasons for not using it are:
1. It does (on a full friction mode) produce a lot of friction that makes it hard to give rop for a leader. (but is great for topropes).
2. It causes a lot of Kinks (twists) in the rops that are not the best thing for the rope and that can at times be hard to deal with.
ATC - (or other devices of that kind) defenetly does not cause more friction that a figure 8. Thread a rope through both and see for yourself.
Grigri - uses pinching to break a fall and efected lees by friction.
As far as the figure 8 - You can get many levels of friction by threading the rope in different ways. AND - You can use it just like and ATC by using the small hole only.
Hope that helps,
Esh
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flynnypek
Jan 6, 2003, 3:13 PM
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So what you are saying is. I can belay with an 8 using only the small hole and that would solve the problem?
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