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muddyv8
Jul 30, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2011
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I was watching Frequent Flyers - Bouldering Around the World and a "local" injured his tendons on a tweaky problem. Right after, one of the stars of the film hopped on the problem and sent it.
Clearly, the "professional" climber is better than the average local in terms of strength, technique, etc. However, professional (sponsored, famous, competing) climbers push their bodies harder than most average climbers and yet I cannot find any info on pro climbers suffering from tendon/pulley injuries or similar overuse injuries. It seems that most pro climbers only get injured when they fall and their body goes *smoosh*.
Do pro climbers have a ridiculous amount of tendon strength from experience or does this have to do with their genetics allowing them to push themselves to their physical without injury? Thoughts?
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johnwesely
Jul 30, 2011, 12:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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Dave Macleod had a recent pulley tear.
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superchuffer
Jul 30, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2011
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warm-up, train, eat well and hydrate, back off before injury...
or be a teeanger, which seem to be the poster children of the sport now.
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redonkulus
Jul 30, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2010
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A couple of years ago, Carlo Traversi tore a finger pulley, and claimed he was still climbing on it, he just couldn't crimp as well. I dunno if he ever let it recover, but he's undoubtedly a strong climber.
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camhead
Jul 30, 2011, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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I think that it is safe to say that a part of becoming an elite climber is avoiding major injury. Spend some time in climbing circles (esp. bouldering), and you'll meet a lot of folks who were on their way to pro levels before tweaking their finer, shoulders, etc.
And yeah, genetics accounts for a lot of it.
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adelphos
Jul 31, 2011, 2:52 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2011
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Surely good genes and a fair amount of talent play a roll.
I think that at least some of it has to do with the amount of time that they took getting to their level. It seems to take a very long time to build up tendon strength. Pros tend to have spent a long time in obscurity before becoming pros.
Disciplined training probably has a lot to do with it. Having a program that you stick with a goal you want to achieve will nearly always win over a weekend crag hero.
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