|
TheNags
Aug 3, 2011, 4:09 AM
Post #1 of 9
(4912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2011
Posts: 53
|
Hi everyone! new climber here (3 and a half months) I am basically obsessed with trad, and wanna learn how to place safe protection. I can only lead a 5.10d sport, and was wondering what suggestions you guys have for a super n00b who wants to learn trad, specifically the best way/places to learn along with any reputable guides or people that would be willing/able to teach safe trad climbing. I am aiming to learn how to place safe protection.
|
|
|
|
|
jacques
Aug 3, 2011, 4:48 AM
Post #2 of 9
(4888 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
|
TheNags wrote: I am aiming to learn how to place safe protection.
placing safe protection in a move
finding the rest place to place a protection
measuring the distance to place a good protection
using two nuts not as good as we want protection
using psychological protection
avoiding rope drag
zipper effect
fall factor two and rope drag
protecting the second
calculating the fall factor as you climb
calculating the distance of the leader from the belay with the fall factor,
etc.
easier to use bolt
(This post was edited by jacques on Aug 3, 2011, 2:16 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 3, 2011, 9:51 AM
Post #3 of 9
(4868 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Try to ignore Jaques. There is actually a pretty well confirmed (3.9 sigma) theory that states Jaques' posts would be easier to read and comprehend if they were first put through google translate through 3 languages then back to english.".
The best way to learn is probobly to find a competent mentor and tag along. You carry the rope and gear, you buy the beers (and whatever else), and you carry the pad. You may be only one step above a subbie, but you'll learn and have fun and it will be way cheaper then a guide. Plus once you up to speed and are fairly competant and ready to lead yourself, you'll be "in" with a group already and can avoid the whole new trad climber partner fidning issues.
The key is to find a nice group of people that know what they are doing, The only way to really know if they are competent is to kinda snoop around with their other partners.
Best of luck.
|
|
|
|
|
jacques
Aug 3, 2011, 2:41 PM
Post #4 of 9
(4842 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
|
sorry for what I just erase. I was mad because I fight too much for safety in quebec. One climber died in the gunks recently. I don't know him, but still a bad accident.
sungam I appologise for what I wrote. Placing pro at the bottom of a cliff and placing a pro hanging on one hand with your last friend 30 feet below is two things for me. I don't know why you minimize what I wrote on placing pro. There is a lot to learn in trad and I am sure that you take care of who you bring in the cliff
(This post was edited by jacques on Aug 3, 2011, 10:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jacques
Aug 3, 2011, 10:43 PM
Post #5 of 9
(4790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
|
TheNags wrote: Hi everyone! new climber here (3 and a half months) I am basically obsessed with trad, and wanna learn how to place safe protection. I can only lead a 5.10d sport, and was wondering what suggestions you guys have for a super n00b who wants to learn trad, specifically the best way/places to learn along with any reputable guides or people that would be willing/able to teach safe trad climbing. I am aiming to learn how to place safe protection. |
|
|
|
|
fredbob
Aug 3, 2011, 11:16 PM
Post #6 of 9
(4775 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 455
|
There are many ways to learn how to lead Trad in So Cal -- some safer than others.
1. Hire a guide service that offers lead classes (recommended). Vertical Adventures offers a 2 day Leading Seminar in Idyllwild (Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks).
http://www.verticaladventures.com/
2. Practice leading on a Top Rope with a more experienced climber who can belay you and then critique your placements.
3. Practice placing gear at places like Rubidoux, etc. with the Instructional books you have obtained and read (several good anchors and trad leading books exist). Then do either 1 or 2 above.
4. Follow #3 above, then head out to local crag and do one pitch routes that are well within your 3rd Classing limit with another climber and learn the way most people used to learn. NOTE: This is certainly a more hazardous way of learning and if you have a bad accident or die, don't blame anyone but yourself.
Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the best Trad climbing in SoCal, but are the real deal and can be unforgiving to inexperienced climbers. Start small and work up from there.
|
|
|
|
|
TheNags
Aug 3, 2011, 11:44 PM
Post #7 of 9
(4765 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2011
Posts: 53
|
Thanks for the advice! I am going to look into all of these options and see which fits best.
|
|
|
|
|
jacques
Aug 4, 2011, 3:06 AM
Post #8 of 9
(4731 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
|
if you like to learn by yourself. I suggest you to aid climb in top rope, with a partner or ascender. I think that the most important it is to know what is a bad protection. You never know when a protection is going to pop out. So if you think that your pro is good, remove it and try an other placement. When your pro will not sustain your weight, look how it move on the rock and why the fail. You will find a number of amazing placement and you are going to see them as you climb. After that, you can train some exercise like climbing in top rope, place as much protection as you can on difficult body position.
Placing pro is mostly a training and, some time, it is better to learn the exercise by someone else...a guide for example. In any way, if you want to know your real value, take a guide. It is hard to found a good guide who can understand your psychology and show your mistake and weakness.
after that...climb climb climb
|
|
|
|
|
dindolino32
Aug 6, 2011, 4:07 PM
Post #9 of 9
(4628 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2008
Posts: 155
|
read books... Craig Luebbens- Basic rock climbing book was great. Also the Falcon guide how to rock climb is good. The mountaineers guide is long and has a TON of info but can be overwhelming at first. Read it twice with a highlighter. set bomber toprope anchors. Go to Joshua tree, do easy established routes that are somewhat short. Then do more easy routes.... A lot of climbs. Then start resting on the gear to give you confidence. Sew up harder climbs and fall. It is most important to climb on good rock that can be protected every 2 feet. That way you learn your gear and have more redundancy. Well, that is how I learned to climb. I didnt have any mentors or anything. I just read every detail
|
|
|
|
|
|
