Ive had several falls in my climbing career, but nothing really that far. a few 5 footers or maybe the occasional 10' fall on an overhanging sport route. Lately(past few years that is) I habvent been able to climb much. lucky to get out 5 times a year, if that. anyway, im not in the shape or have the endurance I used to. I've been slowly gaining more and more trust in the gear, but after this fall, and seeing that Rock Empire Robot cam hold no problem, just gave me a new trust in the gear. Scared when I fell?, I dont know, it all happened so fast and my shorts were dry and clean when I was back on the ground. My life didnt flash in front of me. The only thing that I thought when I was on the ground, was damn, that was close call, being only 3 foot from a decking. And thank god I was horizontal, otherwise I would of sustained some shattered feet/ankes. All in all, it was quite an experience for my first "real" trad fall. I did sustain some good rope burn on my right hand(guess from holding the rope in my hand when attempting a really high clip) and some rashhed skin on my shin, and a sore foot. My only regret of it all, is that I didnt attempt the route again. I was pumped out as it was and sore from trhe fall, but no excuse. a little break and I coulda tried again. OH Well, Devil's Lake isnt going anywhere soon!

Remember too that no one will ever fault you for tossing in an extra piece at a crux and backing up your placement, especially when you are looking at the deck. Congrats on not having to try and "stick the landing":-)

if you fail on a clip way above your head and then fall, you are going to fall a lot farther than if you had waited to clip at your waist. plus, by stretching out, you took weight off your feet, rubber doesn't work without pressure, then you fell.

OKAY I am fully confused, you don't get a lot, you are out of shape, your not climbing near as much as you like or want to.


Can i ask a dumb question?

WHY SOLO a trad route under those self diagnosed conditions?

5.7 0r not

Glad you made it

Ive never been afraid of my placements... just always had a fear of falling on them.

You seem to be quite confused, indeed, but not about what you think you're confused about.

He didn't "solo" anything. He was leading, placing gear, and didn't make his clip-in before coming off the rock and falling 20' while on rope.

Free solo'ing a route involves no gear nor partner, thus the term "solo" - by definition, not this situation.

...So being pumped out from a solo trad lead, ...

yes, anchoring rope at bottom of climb, climbing up placing gear and clipping in with an ascender and back up knots. a roped solo lead.
pain in the ass, but not having partners is too

While Joe often sounds confused, in this case I can understand the confusion. I think it is the OP who is a little confused. He said he did a solo...


...but I'm not sure what a "solo trad lead" means? Rope solo? Soloing and placing gear without a belayer?

yes, anchoring rope at bottom of climb, climbing up placing gear and clipping in with an ascender and back up knots. a roped solo lead.
pain in the ass, but not having partners is too

Lead climbing with an ascender as your primary catch is a lousy idea.

GO

Lead climbing with an ascender as your primary catch is a lousy idea.

GO

...most fatal car crashs [sic] are within a couple miles of home, because we feel safe.

yes, anchoring rope at bottom of climb, climbing up placing gear and clipping in with an ascender and back up knots. a roped solo lead.
pain in the ass, but not having partners is too

I was about 5 to 6 feet above the last peice, trying to clip a cam I got in high above me. akward position, not too hard of a climb, 5.7 on slick quartzite. yeah yeah, i know 5.7 isnt anything, I used to climb 10's a few year ago but just dont get the climbing in I used to. Outta shape pretty good, and only climb maybe 3 times a year now. So being pumped out from a solo trad lead, and a few other climbs before this one, being direct sunlight and HOT, sweat and quartzite dont mix. they are all excuses, but boils down to I fell, but good gear saves lives. But anyone who climbs out at Devil's Lake, knows alot of the routes are sandbagged pretty good. anyway, Im hoping to get back up there and knock it out next weekend. If I do, it'll be my third outing this whole year. I really miss the years when i climbed every other weekend, took 3 weeklong trips every year, and had a 20' wall in my yard and bouldering cave in my garage. I really need to get my shit together so I can get out more, and get back up into the 10's and 11's without falling again!