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majid_sabet
Aug 10, 2011, 6:31 PM
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If you are belaying your partner and someone reminds you that your belay biner is unlock, you better lock it you stupid fuc* instead of ignoring the situation and thinking that you can hide this sh*t from your partner.
And you dumb as*, you better check your partner's belay system before you climb
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Learner
Aug 10, 2011, 6:44 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: If you are belaying your partner and someone reminds you that your belay biner is unlock, you better lock it you stupid fuc* instead of ignoring the situation and thinking that you can hide this sh*t from your partner. And you dumb as*, you better check your partner's belay system before you climb
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majid_sabet
Aug 10, 2011, 6:52 PM
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Learner wrote: majid_sabet wrote: If you are belaying your partner and someone reminds you that your belay biner is unlock, you better lock it you stupid fuc* instead of ignoring the situation and thinking that you can hide this sh*t from your partner. And you dumb as*, you better check your partner's belay system before you climb So, can you tell us the story of what happened?
some dude was belaying her partner and I remind him that his biner is unlock. he looked at me, touch his biner slowly "ohh sh*t" and without locking it ,continued belaying till partner was down, unclipped and walked away
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 10, 2011, 6:53 PM)
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Kartessa
Aug 10, 2011, 6:54 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Learner wrote: majid_sabet wrote: If you are belaying your partner and someone reminds you that your belay biner is unlock, you better lock it you stupid fuc* instead of ignoring the situation and thinking that you can hide this sh*t from your partner. And you dumb as*, you better check your partner's belay system before you climb So, can you tell us the story of what happened? some dude was belaying her partner and I remind him that his biner is unlock. he looked at me, touch his biner slowly "ohh sh*t" and without locking it ,continued belaying till partner was down, unclipped and walked away
That guy is one classy partner.
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funk
Aug 10, 2011, 8:46 PM
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i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before?
OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!!
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rangerrob
Aug 11, 2011, 2:52 AM
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I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma
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JoeHamilton
Aug 11, 2011, 3:10 AM
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funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!!
This is again where a mental factor and ethics come into play.
If I am using 4 biners to make a belay device and the gates are opposed people night not say a word.
If I am using a locker and atc and you dont see red paint yo will just walk on by.
If you do see red paint , ethics say you should say something.
When using a locking biner, it only stands to reason to lock it.
no mental stress, the purpose if for just that mental stability.
IF a fall happens, you were talking to a cute chic, the tugg, or running of rope, pops your atc out of the unlocked biner, your hands burn as you try to catch the climber. BIG IF , but again its just mental stability.
by all means use what you like, myself I will respect my locking biner enough to lock it when a friend, loved one, or stranger gets on my rope. MY MENTAL STABILITY is important to the rest of my life.
(This post was edited by JoeHamilton on Aug 11, 2011, 3:11 AM)
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spikeddem
Aug 11, 2011, 3:25 AM
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funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!!
Most "belaying" biners do not have a shape that loads the aluminum in an optimal way (in comparison to, say, a Helium quickdraw). Lots of open gate strengths for "belay" biners are 7-8 kN, IIRC. That's really not that much.
Moreover, strength isn't the only issue. Security of the belay device+rope can become an issue, too.
Call me crazy, but I would elect not to climb rather than climb with a belayer that has a non-locking biner.
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potreroed
Aug 11, 2011, 4:01 AM
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rangerrob wrote: I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma
Wow, that's scary. I don't know anybody who doesn't use a locker to belay and I would never let someone belay me without a locking 'biner. I've seen way too much strange stuff happen in the blink of an eye.
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swoopee
Aug 11, 2011, 4:15 AM
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rangerrob wrote: I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma
When we were young, and had pet dinosaurs, we climbed for years without locking biners or belay devices. I gladly use both now but wouldn't lose too much sleep if I discovered that my belayer had failed to lock their belay biner once. It does show a certain lack of attention on their part so I would probably fire them, preferably out of a cannon, if it ever happened again.
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curt
Aug 11, 2011, 4:43 AM
Post #11 of 42
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funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!!
1) The carabiner in question wasn't open, retard--just unlocked.
2) Check the gate-open strength versus gate closed strength of any carabiner you like, and then please report back what you find.
3) Oh, the carabiner strength will not be given in "pounds" by the way.
4) Yes, I have given waist belays before--probably many more times than you have.
Curt
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jt512
Aug 11, 2011, 5:04 AM
Post #12 of 42
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rangerrob wrote: I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma
I have always had the feeling you were a moron, but until now I had no hard proof of it.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 11, 2011, 5:08 AM)
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funk
Aug 11, 2011, 1:17 PM
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curt wrote: funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!! 1) The carabiner in question wasn't open, retard--just unlocked. 2) Check the gate-open strength versus gate closed strength of any carabiner you like, and then please report back what you find. 3) Oh, the carabiner strength will not be given in "pounds" by the way. 4) Yes, I have given waist belays before--probably many more times than you have. Curt
calm down son. save that aggression for your big 5.11 project!
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spikeddem
Aug 11, 2011, 3:19 PM
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funk wrote: curt wrote: funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!! 1) The carabiner in question wasn't open, retard--just unlocked. 2) Check the gate-open strength versus gate closed strength of any carabiner you like, and then please report back what you find. 3) Oh, the carabiner strength will not be given in "pounds" by the way. 4) Yes, I have given waist belays before--probably many more times than you have. Curt calm down son. save that aggression for your big 5.11 project!
shoe meet mouth.
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cracklover
Aug 11, 2011, 4:48 PM
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jt512 wrote: rangerrob wrote: I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma I have always had the feeling you were a moron, but until now I had no hard proof of it. Jay
Hmm... dunno about moron. I think the phrase you're looking for is "lousy troller".
GO
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essay
Aug 11, 2011, 5:20 PM
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Waist belays and non locking biners? I would bet you wear a helmet and take pride in chuffing, good luck not dying!
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jt512
Aug 11, 2011, 5:36 PM
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: rangerrob wrote: I know more then a few climbers who don't even use locking biners anymore. I still do, but it's personal choice my man, not rigid dogma I have always had the feeling you were a moron, but until now I had no hard proof of it. Jay Hmm... dunno about moron. I think the phrase you're looking for is "lousy troller". GO
I suppose that's possible. Confirmation bias is powerful.
Jay
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curt
Aug 12, 2011, 6:06 AM
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spikeddem wrote: funk wrote: curt wrote: funk wrote: i take it you've never belayed anyone around your waist before? OH NO YOUR BINER WHICH IS RATED FOR A GIGILLION POUNDS WHEN THE GATE IS OPEN, IS OPEN!!!!! 1) The carabiner in question wasn't open, retard--just unlocked. 2) Check the gate-open strength versus gate closed strength of any carabiner you like, and then please report back what you find. 3) Oh, the carabiner strength will not be given in "pounds" by the way. 4) Yes, I have given waist belays before--probably many more times than you have. Curt calm down son. save that aggression for your big 5.11 project! shoe meet mouth.
Well, that's the great thing about the internet. Every dumbass gets an equal say.
Curt
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scrapedape
Aug 12, 2011, 12:34 PM
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swoopee wrote: I gladly use both now but wouldn't lose too much sleep if I discovered that my belayer had failed to lock their belay biner once.
It sounds like what MS is talking about here is not that the belayer forgot to lock the belay biner per se (an undesirable, but forgivable, mistake), but the fact that he didn't lock it even after it had been pointed out to him.
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Colinhoglund
Aug 12, 2011, 5:02 PM
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This is a common issue I see with new belayers. My saying is that the problem is not in making errors, but is in not catching them and responding correctly.
My analysis
1) climber makes an error (no problem yet)
2) Belayer says climbon! with unlocked biener (problem, failure to catch error)
3) belayer is informed of error, does not correct error (big problem now!!!!)
In my opinion the situation could have been fine if the belayer acted appropriately and corrected their error. Since they did not . . . cut the rope and run.
Ps. I make a point of rechecking if my belay gate is still locked throughout a pitch. On the off time (say less than 1% of the time) my gate has unscrewed itself half way, i simply re-screw it (simple solutions to simple problems).
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westhegimp
Aug 19, 2011, 11:32 PM
Post #21 of 42
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Before I started using the BD Gridlock, I would often look down and see my belay carabiner cross loaded. My partner would be hanging from the screw gate.
Like this.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gYkuHNcEqXc/TeZNtDbJrII/AAAAAAAABIE/XowCwJF1Hk8/s1600/Pinnacles+005.jpg
Freaky! Just the little hook at the end of the biner and the pin in the end of the gate and the screwgate are holding the gate from pulling outward. If the screwgate is not screwed on then all the force is on the little hook and the pin. You can't tell me that pin can hold full weight.
Screw that gate down if you care for your partner.
Wes
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timstich
Aug 20, 2011, 2:08 AM
Post #22 of 42
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majid_sabet wrote: And you dumb as*, you better check your partner's belay system before you climb
Don't make me get Majid on your ass. That's what you say.
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olderic
Aug 20, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post #23 of 42
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majid_sabet wrote: some dude was belaying her partner a
Looks like a case of gender identify crisis. A very common cause of crag mishaps.
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rockforlife
Aug 20, 2011, 4:34 AM
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westhegimp wrote: Before I started using the BD Gridlock, I would often look down and see my belay carabiner cross loaded. My partner would be hanging from the screw gate. Like this. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/...00/Pinnacles+005.jpg Freaky! Just the little hook at the end of the biner and the pin in the end of the gate and the screwgate are holding the gate from pulling outward. If the screwgate is not screwed on then all the force is on the little hook and the pin. You can't tell me that pin can hold full weight. Screw that gate down if you care for your partner. Wes
Depends on what you mean by full weight? I have caught lead falls and looked down to see my biner cross loaded. Yeah it sucks and you should watch out for it, don't always want that happening. But it will still hold something like 7 to 10KN.
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westhegimp
Aug 21, 2011, 12:39 AM
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rockforlife wrote: westhegimp wrote: Before I started using the BD Gridlock, I would often look down and see my belay carabiner cross loaded. My partner would be hanging from the screw gate. Like this. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/...00/Pinnacles+005.jpg Freaky! Just the little hook at the end of the biner and the pin in the end of the gate and the screwgate are holding the gate from pulling outward. If the screwgate is not screwed on then all the force is on the little hook and the pin. You can't tell me that pin can hold full weight. Screw that gate down if you care for your partner. Wes Depends on what you mean by full weight? I have caught lead falls and looked down to see my biner cross loaded. Yeah it sucks and you should watch out for it, don't always want that happening. But it will still hold something like 7 to 10KN.
But was your gate screwed down? That is what this whole thread is about.
Wes
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