|
|
|
|
Stoves
Jul 30, 2011, 7:17 PM
Post #1 of 10
(3493 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2011
Posts: 75
|
I used to ask retarded questions such as is climbing 6 days a week a good idea, am I ready for fingerboard training or help I been climbing for two months and I'm stuck @ v2, etc... Damn how silly I looked with those questions.
All I cared about was climbing the hardest grade I could climb!
Then back in May I had a life changing experience that changed my whole perspective towards climbing.
A friend of mine invited me to go on a climbing trip at the red rocks. Prior to that experience I had no outdoor climbing experience at all.
After my first TR and outdoor sport climb on the third day I was invited to go trad climbing with this awesome guy, his nickname was "safety Nazi"
Since it was my first time safety nazi AKA booty master decided to do a single pitch.
After spending the whole morning going over the basics, communication, practicing taking gear off, etc, we set off to climb. It was instant addiction! It was like TR and bouldering was boring (compared to trad) all of sudden and all I wanted to do was Trad.
The following day we did a 3 pitch (peaches or raising moons), then a 6 pitch (Cat in the hat)
For me the biggest difference is that I when I do trad it feels more like an adventure to me. It's like there's the mountain, can you conquer it? You have to focus 100% of the time, the adrenaline is pumping, and the whole time you are thinking there's a chance i will die here.
Now my main concern is to be safe and keep those around me safe so we can keep on climbing. Instead of looking for campusing videos on youtube I look at anchor pictures and practice knots.
I would never guess that climb a 5.6 - 5.7 route could be so much fun!
Still, trad scared the crap out of me. Who am I to judge (A climber who knows next to nothing) if the leader is safe and if the stuff he is doing is right?
And that's only following! I can only imagine how does it feels to lead!
I will write a trip report of the best vacation of my life soon!
Thanks for reading and I look forward to reading your comments.
PS: During one of the popular routes we climbed we had a party right above us and a party bellow. I was having a really hard time with the hanging belay and I had to pee really bad. I had no bottles or containers! What would you have do under that situation?
(This post was edited by Stoves on Jul 30, 2011, 7:18 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jul 30, 2011, 8:06 PM
Post #2 of 10
(3466 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Glad you've found the way. There are so many things I love about placing my own gear but what I love the most is that I can climb 3 number grades below my limit all day long and still be satisfied and also tired at the end of the day. There is just something about looking up at a wall with no pre-placed gear or predetermined way to go and then just climbing it to the top, leaving nothing that won't be washed off in the next storm.
As for the peeing thing... if there is a party below you it's kind of a risky judgement call. Depends on what kind of rock you are on, temperature, etc.
Once I was on a tower in Thailand and drank too much water (I never thought you could do that in Thailand). Had to pee, went in a hole in the limestone, only to find out a few hours later that it had come out of another hole about a pitch below, right onto a very angry German.
|
|
|
|
|
scrapedape
Aug 1, 2011, 12:04 PM
Post #4 of 10
(3332 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
|
rtwilli4 wrote: Once I was on a tower in Thailand and drank too much water (I never thought you could do that in Thailand). Had to pee, went in a hole in the limestone, only to find out a few hours later that it had come out of another hole about a pitch below, right onto a very angry German.
Just your luck that you found the only German that isn't into that kind of thing.
|
|
|
|
|
Stoves
Aug 2, 2011, 12:36 AM
Post #5 of 10
(3244 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2011
Posts: 75
|
You know putting up millage on trad is not that simple. Who am I to know if my partner really knows his stuff and is making the right decisions?
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Aug 2, 2011, 12:57 AM
Post #6 of 10
(3239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Stoves wrote: You know putting up millage on trad is not that simple. Who am I to know if my partner really knows his stuff and is making the right decisions?
the only way to really know is to learn more yourself. how you might do that can vary, of course, but the more knowledgeable you become the more you'll know about your partners. read books, climb with different people, ask questions, listen, and be skeptical enough to ask more questions or be willing to learn more.
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Aug 2, 2011, 1:06 AM
Post #7 of 10
(3231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: Stoves wrote: You know putting up millage on trad is not that simple. Who am I to know if my partner really knows his stuff and is making the right decisions? the only way to really know is to learn more yourself. how you might do that can vary, of course, but the more knowledgeable you become the more you'll know about your partners. read books, climb with different people, ask questions, listen, and be skeptical enough to ask more questions or be willing to learn more.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Aug 2, 2011, 9:36 AM
Post #8 of 10
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Stoves wrote: You know putting up millage on trad is not that simple. Who am I to know if my partner really knows his stuff and is making the right decisions?
Once you reach a decent level of competence, you will be able to make the judgements yourself. Anytime someone does something differently to how you do it, ask about it. You'll either learn a new trick or have the chance to critique their set up and have them make it safer. Of course the real issue is what they do when you aren't there (setting up anchors, belaying, etc.), but there really isn't much you can do there except make sure they have a good understanding of climbing and rope systems in the places you can see.
|
|
|
|
|
teo916
Aug 11, 2011, 9:23 PM
Post #9 of 10
(2924 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2009
Posts: 46
|
scrapedape wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Once I was on a tower in Thailand and drank too much water (I never thought you could do that in Thailand). Had to pee, went in a hole in the limestone, only to find out a few hours later that it had come out of another hole about a pitch below, right onto a very angry German. Just your luck that you found the only German that isn't into that kind of thing.
|
|
|
|
|
ladyscarlett
Aug 11, 2011, 10:53 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 376
|
Stay with the way of the Safety Nazi. I suspect it will give you a good foundation.
I was taught under the tradition of 'git 'er done! Safety third.'
And now everyone is scared to climb with me...thus, a traddie with no mileage.
heh
good luck!
LS
|
|
|
|
|
|
