Mar 18, 2011, 7:10 AM
Post #2 of 40
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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Tons Of Junk in Josh. I probably got the second ascent. I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to attempt it again. Then a copperhead route out here that required replacing bad heads. Both routes were ground fall the whole way.
boy, I tell you, that A5 I did the other day at the gym!
(note: quite a few noobs do A5 at the gym: incompetent belayer so that a fall would likely end with serious injury or death; and constantly grabbing the quickdraws)
Aid climbing is so scary, I don't know how you guys do it.
I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think. I was so scared belaying him I never did an aid wall climb again. I was just waiting for a hundred foot wipper that would pull the bolts in the soft sandstone at the belay off the wall and take me down with him. i think I was more scared than he was.
I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think.
Basically anything harder than A2/C2 can get real scary real fast!
Those L things are Leeper Cam Hooks. BTW, using them on granite or other hard rock is fine, but their use on the soft sandstone of Zion et al is totally unethical. They can easily blow out the fragile sides of a sandstone crack, creating ugly scarring and forcing use of pitons or even bolts by subsequent parties. DON'T USE THEM ON SANDSTONE!
Apr 29, 2011, 11:58 AM
Post #18 of 40
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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I refuse to vote on a poll that does not include A6+. David Palmada would be very pissed you did not recognize his first A6+ accent of that sandy route on the Fish Towers.