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ranger86


Aug 13, 2011, 9:30 PM
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JoeHamilton


Aug 13, 2011, 9:41 PM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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I am gunna guess, 1 read some books on the subject, 2 watch others and see what they do, 3 it would depend on the climb,. Like, if I am gonna be on a sport route I wouldnt need cams, and nuts. The plastic coted things are gear loops


TheNags


Aug 13, 2011, 9:43 PM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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I have not yet started trad climbing, although I hope to shorty. I found that for sport using the forward gear loops for my draws, and clipping my atc/personal anchor on the back gear loops works best. For a trad rack set up check out the TRAD section of the forum, but from my experience (which is fairly minimal) I find that climbing with different set ups will give you some ideas on how you want to tweak yours. Also thanks for your service. (6 years AF here :D) Take care and climb safe!


ranger86


Aug 13, 2011, 9:46 PM
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Re: [TheNags] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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Thanks for the advice both of you. Will look into it.


moose_droppings


Aug 13, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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ranger86 wrote:
New to the game and would like to know how you arrange your gear on your harness for trad and sport. I realize everyone is different but would like to know how you do it for the following items i've listed below.

Cams
Nuts
Quick Draws
Alpine Draws
PS (Personal Securing Rope)
Belay Device w/ Locker when your climbing and not belaying

I have 4 plastic coated rings 2 on each side of my harness that i can clip stuff to. If you have some suggestions on how to rig it for Sport and Trad climbs would be very helpful. Thanks.

I very rarely rack on my harness, but when I do I'll rack cams on the left front with smaller cams to the front. Depending on how many I'm carrying there might be a couple of the larger ones on the rear left. Nuts and tricams will go on two or three biners on the front right and also go with the smaller nuts to the front. The back loops get my runners, usually 120cm (tripled up) on the rear right and 60cm behind anything else on the rear left. If my belay biner and device aren't on the belay loop, they'll be on the haul loop along with a set of prusiks and cordellette. Nut tool when not seconding goes on the back loops, either one. Of course Then there's a few loops of webbing tied and hanging over my shoulder.

Most of the time I rack on a chest harness/gear sling, but either way, I know without looking what's on the biner I'm grabbing.


jacques


Aug 13, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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ranger86 wrote:
New to the game and would like to know how you arrange your gear on your harness for trad and sport.

I make change every year on my trad rack, but I take in consideration those point for trad climbing:

in a fall, you want to protect your hips. So I place as few think as I can right aside my two big bone. I carry my nuts and sling at shoulder level.

In a chimney/offwith, I want to be able to move, so I bring as little as I can on my harness

when i need a piece, I want to be able to see it to choose it. reason why I use a sling at shoulder level

Maybe there is more important think, but for me those are important.


Kartessa


Aug 13, 2011, 10:10 PM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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A lot of people start off racking the same way as the person who taught them to place gear and make little tweaks to their system as time passes.


sungam


Aug 14, 2011, 2:11 AM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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ranger86 wrote:
I have 4 plastic coated rings 2 on each side of my harness that i can clip stuff to.
Firstly thee are called gear loops, not to be confused with the belay loop Wink


For sport I rack my draws about half and half on each side, with the shortest at the front and longest at the back.



For trad I rack my cams smallest to largest on my right, nuts smallest to largest on my left. 80% of my fraws smallest to largest behind the nuts on the left, and the rest smallest to largest behind my cams.

Tri cams go on the left with the nuts, and hexes go on the left as well. But I rarely if ever carry those.

For winter stuff I carry screws in pan pipes on a shoulder sling and I rack hexes on the right and tricams on the left, and a set of nuts on each side at the front. Slings etc. are split equally on both sides shortest to longest.


Edit to add: This is just the way I do it, I just put it here to give some insight into a possible system. Everyone has their own way, the key is to be able to remember where a piece is and not have to faff around finding it before you can place it.


(This post was edited by sungam on Aug 14, 2011, 2:12 AM)


Partner j_ung


Aug 14, 2011, 7:23 AM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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ranger86 wrote:
New to the game and would like to know how you [rack] your gear on your harness for trad and sport. I realize everyone is different but would like to know how you do it for the following items i've listed below.

Cams
Nuts
Quick Draws
Alpine Draws
[cordalette]
Belay Device w/ Locker when your climbing and not belaying

I have 4 [gear loops] 2 on each side of my harness that i can clip stuff to. If you have some suggestions on how to rig it for Sport and Trad climbs would be very helpful. Thanks.

Just helping you out with some terminology there.

I rack stoppers in the very front, then cams from smallest to largest on my front loops. From front to back, I rack draws then alpine draws then extra biners and my belay device on the back loops.


lofstromc


Aug 14, 2011, 7:26 AM
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Re: [sungam] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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Last few years I was using a gear sling, but really got frustrated with it. I'm back to racking on my harness.

Since I have doubles of most, I split my gear evenly on both sides of my body. Cams always in front left and right loops, going from smallest to largest. Each cam on its own biner except for the smallest two. The second loops get my stoppers and tricam mix. I carry lots of small stoppers and use my tricams in place of some of the larger stoppers. Behind the stoppers, I put my draws, then my nut tool and cordellete. My belay device sometimes rides in the rear most loop or on one of the rear loops. Around my chest, I like to carry slings, 24" and 48", with one biner on each.

When I do use a gear sling, I put my big cams low and work my way up to small cams and then stoppers.


ckirkwood9


Aug 14, 2011, 8:17 AM
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Re: [ranger86] Setting up Gear on your Harness? Help [In reply to]
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my setup tweaked to my liking over the years:
-----------------------------------------------------------
left front: small cams in order from smallest to largest
(all racked on silver mad rock wire gates)
left rear: small stoppers (racked on an oval biner)
followed by 6 trad draws on silver nano biners
with white slings

right front: large cams in order smallest to largest
(all racked on red mad rock wiregates)
(the thought being red right / silver left )
right rear: large stoppers (on oval biner)
followed by 6 trad draws
(on gold nano biners / yellow slings)

hanging off haul loop: chalk bag / orange cordalette twist-racked with 2 orange lockers / a few locking biners racked end to end.

belay loop: metolius PAS girth-hitched to belay loop, green locking biner attaching this to rear loop left side under gear.

the colors are specific because:

* it makes it SUPER easy to rack my gear quickly after cleaning up from a climb. I know what sling/biner/gear goes together
* When gear gets mixed up between partners, i can see what's missing pretty quickly.
* colored lockers on pas good for identifying MY locker at a croweded anchor (sometimes following your PAS brings you to a cluster EFF at an anchor if there are many people)
* colored lockers on longer slings/cordalette match my the sling colors for ease of racking/identification/etc.

i've been using this system for a few years... works well for me.


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