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cervicornis
Aug 18, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Is there a slick way to cinch a clove hitch tight? For example, if I'm setting two nuts in opposition in a vertical crack? My current method involves a girth hitch to the bottom nut and then a clove to the top nut (on the biners, actually). I'm able to jimmy the clove to get most of the slack out, but it is far from being truly tight. It's also mighty difficult to set this up with only one hand.
Luebben's book Rock Climbing, Master Basic Skills shows a different technique (page 115) that doesn't involve the clove. I might be missing something, but this method is really loose and feels insecure to me.
Any tips would be appreciated.
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spikeddem
Aug 19, 2011, 12:47 AM
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There's a way better method for oppositionals. I'm not sure, but I seem to remember it going like so:
1) Take a biner off a "trad" draw, and clip it to one of the oppositionals.
2) Clip the other oppositional with the remaining biner + sling
3) Pass the free end of the slling through the lone biner
4) Pass it through again.
5) Pull it tight (toward the original biner+sling placement).
The sling should wrap over itself, which will secure it in place.
I hope I'm remembering this correctly. There's a post somewhere around here...
<searches>
Ah ha! More info here.
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cervicornis
Aug 19, 2011, 2:10 AM
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Thanks, this is the same method described in Luebben's book. It doesn't seem to work very well with my skinny Spectra slings, which slip really easy. I'm going to try it with some wider nylon, and that should be the ticket. It's certainly a lot easier than setting the cloves.
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spikeddem
Aug 19, 2011, 3:23 AM
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cervicornis wrote: Thanks, this is the same method described in Luebben's book. It doesn't seem to work very well with my skinny Spectra slings, which slip really easy. I'm going to try it with some wider nylon, and that should be the ticket. It's certainly a lot easier than setting the cloves.
Hmmm. I've only ever done it with my spectra slings. Hmm.
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cervicornis
Aug 19, 2011, 3:48 AM
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Really? When I use my slings, which aren't brand new either, they hold ok - but just a little tug and they loosen up pretty easily.
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rgold
Aug 19, 2011, 4:12 AM
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There are much better ways. Here's one I posted here back in 2005. It is somewhat dependent on carabiner shape. There's an even simpler way I've discovered since then that works with everything; I'll try to post that soon.
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cervicornis
Aug 19, 2011, 4:19 AM
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Thank you very much, Rich. I'm going to go practice this now. I think I remember seeing these pictures a while back (before I ever thought I'd get into trad).
On a side note, you may find it interesting (scary?) to learn that I've spent many hours sifting through your posts on this site. I've got a big word doc called "rgold climbing wisdom" that I refer to pretty often. I am just getting started in the sport and your posts have been as instructive and helpful as any book I've read. So, thanks.
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rgold
Aug 19, 2011, 4:37 AM
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Cervicornis, thank you for your kind words. You do have me a bit scared. Perhaps you can tell me: have I flat-out contradicted myself yet? It is only a matter of time...
Wisdom comes, one hopes, from interactions with many others. It is a communal thing, not an individual one. I've learned an enormous amount over the years from what others have said, and I've recycled quite a bit of it, so it may be wisdom, I hope so, but I don't think it is my wisdom.
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cervicornis
Aug 19, 2011, 5:00 AM
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Hehe. No contradictory words of advice that I've been able to find. You'll be happy to hear there's at least one California climber who refuses to do multi-pitch without gloves. I'm sure there are others.
Completely agree on the accumulation of wisdom. That being said, the thoughtful and precise dissemination of said wisdom is entirely individual, and this is something you should receive full credit for!
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sherpa79
Aug 19, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Huh. I use Rgold's method of tying a clove on a binner as well. I find it fast and snug. However, I'm keen to see how it can be improved. Looking forward to that post...
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