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p8ntballsk8r
Aug 21, 2011, 3:06 PM
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The things I've already taken into consideration is the potential for a swing if you fall, the rope running over rock/ an edge, and finally multidirectional anchors.
Anything else I should take into consideration? The goal is to be able to climb 3 different routes by only setting up the middle one. Probably wouldn't wander more than 8-10 feet
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Gmburns2000
Aug 21, 2011, 4:19 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: The things I've already taken into consideration is the potential for a swing if you fall, the rope running over rock/ an edge, and finally multidirectional anchors. Anything else I should take into consideration? The goal is to be able to climb 3 different routes by only setting up the middle one. Probably wouldn't wander more than 8-10 feet
It depends. It is always nice to set up a single TR that allows a climber to run more than one route, but obstacles and the amount of swing a climber is willing to take are factors as well.
Personally, I tend to pick a spot where three routes converge withing a couple of feet from each other at the top, but that is generally speaking. As noted above, other obstacles are important.
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scottek67
Aug 21, 2011, 6:04 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Probably wouldn't wander more than 8-10 feet
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coolcarl
Aug 22, 2011, 12:24 AM
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How long are the routes? If they're short enough, you can set up multiple routes on different anchors with one rope. With a 60 M rope, you can set up 2 15m. routes.
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TradEddie
Aug 22, 2011, 1:11 AM
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All climbing is dangerous, wandering makes it more dangerous, so if you want safe, try another activity.
TE
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rocknice2
Aug 22, 2011, 1:12 AM
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It's not only the feet but more the angle. The problem arises when you get close to the top.
Best is to place directionals and only climb to those.
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j_ung
Aug 22, 2011, 11:34 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: It's not only the feet but more the angle. The problem arises when you get close to the top. Best is to place directionals and only climb to those.
What he said. As you near the tops of the wider routes, any potential swing will be much more forceful. I don't necessarily think 8-10' is a huge deal, but if you have obstacles, you're going to hit them pretty hard up there. If you're level with the anchor, you're fall will essentially be a traversing lead fall.
Another thing to think about: how much movement will your anchor get from a fall up high? Make sure to protect your rig from abrasion, which might not be negligible in such a situation.
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markc
Aug 22, 2011, 1:49 PM
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coolcarl wrote: How long are the routes? If they're short enough, you can set up multiple routes on different anchors with one rope. With a 60 M rope, you can set up 2 15m. routes.
I've seen a couple folks do that at short crags, and entirely forgot. Good advice for shorter crags.
I agree with others regarding the force of the swing as you approach the top of the climb. If the crux of any of the climbs is low on the route, that may make the start interesting, as well. I might prefer to rig the anchor midway between two of the climbs and then rerig for the third.
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rescueman
Aug 22, 2011, 3:43 PM
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But pendulums can be a real drag - and potentially dangerous.
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Rmsyll2
Aug 26, 2011, 1:05 AM
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Starting a climb away to one side can result in grounding from a low fall. The rope does not stop you immediately as in a vertical top-rope fall, and acceleration increases with the horizontal component of the rope direction. As you scrape across the face, you might twist and spin, increasing potential impact injury. The rope is not easy to grab to keep upright, so you can tilt sideways and then inverted in the harness.
In a word: Don't. In direct answer: half as far as you could safely swing at the speed you would be going.
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hugepedro
Aug 26, 2011, 7:00 AM
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1. Tie in
2. Wander over to your pack, eat some cheetos
3. Wander over to that cutie in the group next door and chat her up
4. After she turns you down wander back to your buddy and tell him she's a bitch
5. Start climbing
Always follow these steps and you'll be fine.
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