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Aludien
Aug 23, 2011, 9:28 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2008
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I bought a sterling evolution 9.8mm rope recently, since I was doing pretty much only sport leading with my climbing partner and the evolution was marketed/recommended as a "sport leading rope." Some friends of mine who are new to climbing just bought some shoes and harnesses and have been coming up with me to the crags. As a result, I've been top roping a lot with my new rope. The sterling evolution is marketed as a great lead rope, but it even says on the packaging "can be used, but not the best choice" for top roping.
Will top roping with a rope designed for sport leading wear it out faster? Is this something I should be concerned about? Is it related to the static elongation (8.6%, which seems high when compared with the low dynamic elongation - 26.4%)?
Just curious as to what qualities make a rope better for different uses (sport/tr/trad) and how "bad" it is to cross over between these uses. Thank you!
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kennoyce
Aug 23, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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Aludien wrote: I bought a sterling evolution 9.8mm rope recently, since I was doing pretty much only sport leading with my climbing partner and the evolution was marketed/recommended as a "sport leading rope." Some friends of mine who are new to climbing just bought some shoes and harnesses and have been coming up with me to the crags. As a result, I've been top roping a lot with my new rope. The sterling evolution is marketed as a great lead rope, but it even says on the packaging "can be used, but not the best choice" for top roping. Will top roping with a rope designed for sport leading wear it out faster? Is this something I should be concerned about? Is it related to the static elongation (8.6%, which seems high when compared with the low dynamic elongation - 26.4%)? Just curious as to what qualities make a rope better for different uses (sport/tr/trad) and how "bad" it is to cross over between these uses. Thank you!
YOU'RE GOING TO DIE!!!!!!!!!!!
Send the rope to me immediately for proper disposal.
On a serious note. Any climbing rope can be used for a toprope. The problems with toproping are due to the diameter of the rope. The thicker the rope, the more wear resistant it is, and also the less stretchy it is. Your rope is not ideal for toproping because it will wear faster then say a 10.5 (the standard diameter for toproping).
Also keep in mind that because thinner ropes stretch more, on really long routes, even if you are keeping a tight belay, the climber could fall and hit the ground due to rope stretch at the beginning of the climb (though I wouldn't be too worried about this with a 9.8)
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mikebee
Aug 23, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Top Roping seems to wear out ropes quicky on two fronts. One, it can be hard on the sheath, depending on how the anchor is set up. If the rope is running over an edge, or even a smoth bulge, the small amount of abrasion can mount up with repeated laps and damage the sheath prematurely.
Two, your rope is made up of two seperate parts, the core and the sheath. In an ideal world, the core and the sheath would move together, but over time, with repeated abseils or lowering off, the sheath tends to slip towards the ends of the rope and bunch up. This is sheath slippage, and eventually means the rope starts handling quite badly.
A thicker rope (eg a 10.5mm) will generally be listed as better for TRing as it will have a thicker sheath, to resist abrasion. Also, many of the newer, dedicated TR cords have a tricky new weave which joins the core and the sheath to eliminate the sheath slippage.
You won't destroy your rope straight away, but you will end up wearing it out a bit sooner by TRing on it.
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tolman_paul
Aug 24, 2011, 12:36 AM
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Top roping wears out ropes period. All the ropes I've worn out have been from top roping. Two of the ropes had the sheath worn through, aka the core shot, the other never had a core shot, but when an 11mm rope gets fuzzed out, it's pretty tough to get it through a belay device.
My advice would be if you've taken a bunch of falls on your lead rope, retire it to t/r duty. If not, scour the web for sale ropes and find a 10.5mm in the $120 price range and you have a t/r rope.
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clc
Aug 24, 2011, 1:37 AM
Post #5 of 16
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Don't worry about it. When your rope wears out buy a new one.
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Rmsyll2
Aug 24, 2011, 2:00 AM
Post #6 of 16
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A notable difference in terms of rope between lead and TR is that on the lead ascent the rope is just hauled up rather than pulleyed through the anchor carabiners under whatever tension the climber likes. Since the second will be on TR, that makes one-fourth less of the wear of bending and sliding through carabiners. However, if the leader takes a fall, that is much more stress on the rope than a fall on TR. And a two-strand rappel after cleaning anchors is twice as much rope length bent through the device as for lowering. Rope rub is too variable to make general assessments about imo.
How a rope could be made differently to be suitable for one condtion vs another, dunno. Obviously, a thicker rope has a thicker sheath and bulk and weight. And the dynamic stretch is what it says it is, regardless of the diameter. If you trust a fall on it, climb on it, I say.
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dan2see
Aug 24, 2011, 3:23 AM
Post #7 of 16
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clc wrote: Don't worry about it. When your rope wears out buy a new one.
It's worth repeating.
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USnavy
Aug 24, 2011, 3:42 AM
Post #8 of 16
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kennoyce wrote: Aludien wrote: I bought a sterling evolution 9.8mm rope recently, since I was doing pretty much only sport leading with my climbing partner and the evolution was marketed/recommended as a "sport leading rope." Some friends of mine who are new to climbing just bought some shoes and harnesses and have been coming up with me to the crags. As a result, I've been top roping a lot with my new rope. The sterling evolution is marketed as a great lead rope, but it even says on the packaging "can be used, but not the best choice" for top roping. Will top roping with a rope designed for sport leading wear it out faster? Is this something I should be concerned about? Is it related to the static elongation (8.6%, which seems high when compared with the low dynamic elongation - 26.4%)? Just curious as to what qualities make a rope better for different uses (sport/tr/trad) and how "bad" it is to cross over between these uses. Thank you! Also keep in mind that because thinner ropes stretch more,
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 24, 2011, 3:45 AM)
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gosharks
Aug 24, 2011, 3:46 AM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
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Aludien wrote: I bought a sterling evolution 9.8mm rope recently, since I was doing pretty much only sport leading with my climbing partner and the evolution was marketed/recommended as a "sport leading rope." Some friends of mine who are new to climbing just bought some shoes and harnesses and have been coming up with me to the crags. As a result, I've been top roping a lot with my new rope. The sterling evolution is marketed as a great lead rope, but it even says on the packaging "can be used, but not the best choice" for top roping. Will top roping with a rope designed for sport leading wear it out faster? Is this something I should be concerned about? Is it related to the static elongation (8.6%, which seems high when compared with the low dynamic elongation - 26.4%)? Just curious as to what qualities make a rope better for different uses (sport/tr/trad) and how "bad" it is to cross over between these uses. Thank you!
(This post was edited by gosharks on Aug 24, 2011, 3:46 AM)
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bearbreeder
Aug 24, 2011, 5:50 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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sheath % ... mammut posts them up for their rope ...
the higher, generally the more resistant to abrasion ...
and in general the thicker the rope the better for TRing
some say dont worry about it ... i disagree, if you spent a good amount of money for a rope, i wouldnt destroy it with constant (not occasional) TRing ... i use older ropes or el cheapo 10mm ropes for that ... TRing wears out yr rope by a factor of 5-10x
from mammut
Frequent top roping, gym use, and working routes leads to increased sheath friction, and quicker wearing of the rope. For such applications we offer a rope with an increased sheath proportion. With normal ropes the weight of the sheath, in comparison to that of the core, is 35-45%. Our friction resistant, extreme performance ropes have at least a 45% sheath proportion and therefore, clearly a longer life span.
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Aludien
Aug 24, 2011, 6:21 PM
Post #11 of 16
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Registered: Jun 19, 2008
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gosharks wrote: Are your initials EC by chance?
Is your first initial A? (I forget your last name) - but Smith Rock was great : )
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Aludien
Aug 24, 2011, 6:25 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Jun 19, 2008
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Thanks for the input. I'll see if i can find a cheap, larger-diameter rope for tr, if not then i'll just buy a new rope whenever this one happens to wear out.
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aprice00
Aug 24, 2011, 7:26 PM
Post #13 of 16
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clc wrote: Don't worry about it. When your rope wears out Make your Friends buy You a new one.
Fixed
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gunkiemike
Aug 26, 2011, 12:59 AM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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Aludien wrote: Thanks for the input. I'll see if i can find a cheap, larger-diameter rope for tr, if not then i'll just buy a new rope whenever this one happens to wear out.
PM me if you want a worn-but-not-worn-out 60m rope that is ready to be downgraded from lead to TR status. $30 and you pay shipping.
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Kartessa
Aug 27, 2011, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
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bearbreeder wrote: Aludien wrote: Thanks for the input. I'll see if i can find a cheap, larger-diameter rope for tr, if not then i'll just buy a new rope whenever this one happens to wear out. if you live in the people's republic of canada ... https://www.lacordee.com/...gle-rope/lnx-smart10 [image]http://www.lacordee.com/_static/webUpload/731/26_LNX-SMART10_LNX-SMART10-BLE_6.jpg[/image] 99$ rope 10mm 60m tendon rope ... use code Natur3 to get 15% off, add something worth a cent to get free shipping in canada basically a 85$ rope .... tendon also makes ropes for metollius i believe cant beat that price ... great for TR gang bangs 
Sweet! I knew you were good for something
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