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rockrat17
Jan 4, 2003, 9:30 PM
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My first trad was @ Pickledish, it was 5.6. My rack consisted of cams, sizes 1-3 and a few nuts. It was only one pitch, but it was pretty kool.
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falke
Jan 4, 2003, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2002
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Lost Bandana Wall, Little Granite Moutain, Arizona, I think it was 5.7.
I had a set of nuts, 3 small size cams, several slings. It was short, and my placements were sketchy at best. But I put in enough to make my belayer hate the pace
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dino
Jan 5, 2003, 11:52 PM
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3rd Flatiron: All day; 3-man rope of beginners; missed the east bench (add two pitches) 90 degrees; no water; no clue; couldn't wait to do it again...
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camhead
Jan 6, 2003, 12:23 AM
Post #29 of 91
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30 Seconds Over Potash, at Wall Street, Moab, 5.8
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neph
Jan 6, 2003, 12:51 AM
Post #30 of 91
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hehe dino
You haven't really climbed in Boulder till you're gotten heat stroke climbing one of the Flatirons (or had to hike down in the dark with no headlamps)...
-Nate
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shortfatoldguy
Jan 6, 2003, 1:18 AM
Post #31 of 91
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Super Slab, Smith Rock, 3 pitches, 5.6. Led it in my approach shoes to try and feel less like the gumby that I was/am.
Oh, gear. Mainly stoppers and hexes, a few cams. Was being (re)trained by old-schoolers.
[ This Message was edited by: shortfatoldguy on 2003-01-06 06:28 ]
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easysteve
Jan 6, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
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Detroit Oregon brittle falling rocks, and not a good place to climb. I had 3 stoppers, and 7 wild country rocks, and a bunch of quickdraws to complete the set. I suppose you could say the climb was two pitches, but my friend tailed the rope up and easy part. Not sure of the rating.
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gravical
Jan 13, 2003, 11:59 AM
Post #33 of 91
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i think all of you are crazy, but it probably comes with the climbing package - I do want to add that you have made me feel so much better by knowing I am not the only guy that felt like being in over my head on a first trad route!
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womble
Jan 14, 2003, 5:51 PM
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This random but easy looking route in Taiwan
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10063
On a friend's gear. Used mainly medium nuts and small hexes. Because the route was less-than-vertical and the rock quality incredibly good, it wasn't scary at all.
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ricardol
Jan 14, 2003, 6:44 PM
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I'm hoping my 1st trad lead will be in next weekend .. I'm hoping to lead Swallows crack at pinnacles (5.6) with a set of stoppers, microcams, and power cams.
-- ricardo
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dingus
Jan 14, 2003, 6:46 PM
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Original Route, Underground City. Um, 1973. It was quite difficult in tennis shoes.
DMT
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mtnjohn
Jan 14, 2003, 6:58 PM
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My first trad lead (which was my first lead)
was South Crack in Tuolome.
All I had were hexes & stoppers & Fire's
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iamthewallress
Jan 14, 2003, 6:58 PM
Post #38 of 91
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"5.0 Descent Gully" in J Tree with my 'rack' (a set of nuts) and a few borrowed cams.
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elvislegs
Jan 14, 2003, 7:10 PM
Post #39 of 91
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Something called "Stems and Jammies" 5.8 at the black cliffs in Boise. Wasn't bad at all cause I had followed a bunch.
Set of BD nuts and a couple of hexes.
I still have people follow me on this route when they want to learn trad placement. A great starter.
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onbelay_osu
Jan 16, 2003, 6:09 AM
Post #40 of 91
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My first Trad was on a pitch down here in Oklahoma called mild and wild... this is a 5.6 pitch about 40ft high. Great hand crack at the bottom which opens into off-width near the top out... My gear DB stoppers sizes 4,5,5,6,7,8,9,10. BD Hex size 10 Metilous nut size 9 2 DMM wallnuts 9,10 two Trango flex cams 9 and 10 and a white Lowecamp Tri-cam... this rack worked great at the bottom, but near the top out i was wanting a bigger placement...my cam placement would have blown had i have fallen...If you are ever in the witchitas here in okie land and are looking for some fun short, no more than 60 foot climbs, trad roughts i recomend upper mount scott!
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betterthinkfast
Jan 16, 2003, 7:20 AM
Post #41 of 91
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suicide
serpentine
couple of cams
set of stoppers
nice route. crux was bolted so didn't have to worry about gear, just smearing on dime edges.
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beyond_gravity
Jan 20, 2003, 11:43 PM
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some 5.4 at wasootch slabs. used my uncles hexs and nuts back from the 70's.
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kman
Jan 21, 2003, 12:08 AM
Post #43 of 91
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It was a short 5.9 crack. I was friggin gripped when I got near the top only to find the last few moves were soaked with water. I went back much later and did it again wondering wtf was I thinking doing that for my first trad climb.
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roc-ray
Deleted
Jan 21, 2003, 12:37 AM
Post #44 of 91
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Don't worry and Be happy at Skaha.Both were 5.6 with good pro and I must have used every piece of gear on the rack.I still wimp out and sow up some trad lines.
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johnnyontherocks
Jan 22, 2003, 7:45 AM
Post #45 of 91
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
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Cryptic Chimmney at the Delaware Water Gap (5.5 I think) I brought everything and the kitchen sink..
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cologman
Jan 22, 2003, 4:31 PM
Post #46 of 91
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Being mostly naive about Alpine climbing and my ability at the time, early 70's. I had asked the shop owner of a shop on West Colfax in Denver if he could rec. a good first alpine rte on a large face of moderate difficulty. He said do the large crescent shaped chimney on Halletts Peak. So off we went. What is now known as the Englishman's Route, appeared to us as the the rte in question. Up we went, with Iron mongery of the first degree. Although only in the 5.8 realm route finding on that large face proved challenging. I took my first lead whipper on a runout face high on the climb when wet rock got the best of me. Darkness and fatigue caught up to us at the top of the face. Because we were unfamiliar with the descent and tired we chose to spend the night amongst the boulders on top. Not a good night but a character builder. On the way out the next day we met Walter Fricke the then ranger at Bear Lake who was interested in what we had done. He was at that time working on his guide book to RMNP.
to his knowledge we had done the 2nd. ascent of the rte and he was very interested in our beta. To this day that climb looms large in my memory for providing the intangible thrills that have kept me climbing over the years.
[ This Message was edited by: cologman on 2003-01-22 08:35 ]
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tanner
Jan 23, 2003, 5:20 PM
Post #47 of 91
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
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5.7 used a rack of nuts as pro. It was fun but the top 30ft was off-with had and no pro. guess I soloed it. My next trad climb was a nice wel protected corner crack at 5.7
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yosemite
Jan 23, 2003, 5:26 PM
Post #48 of 91
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 331
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Fingertip Traverse at Tahquitz on goldline rope, with pitons, in Lowa mountaineering boots. Circa 1968.
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froggy
Jan 23, 2003, 5:29 PM
Post #49 of 91
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Registered: Oct 4, 2001
Posts: 244
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My first trad lead was Upper Right Ski Track in J-Tree. Don't really remember what I used for pro... but I remember it being mostly cams (aliens/bd). Pretty good exposure - scared me good! Did not know that a 5.3 could be so hard!
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ouflyboy9
Jan 23, 2003, 5:34 PM
Post #50 of 91
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 103
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My first trad lead was bedtime for bonzo in Red River Gorge.....I was carrying eveything I could..I don't remember how much gear I placed but it was probably too much.
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