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stimo
Aug 28, 2011, 6:02 PM
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Hi all just a quick question for you.
Ive only been climbing for 5 weeks and im finding that v1 & v2s quite easy now but im having problems on the v3's i know that they are harder thats not the problem the problem im having is that some of the holds are to far for me to reach as im not on the tall side  should i keep trying these routes or should i only look at the routes that are more suited to my size if that is possible to do in climbing.
stimo 
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johnwesely
Aug 28, 2011, 7:08 PM
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stimo wrote: Hi all just a quick question for you. Ive only been climbing for 5 weeks and im finding that v1 & v2s quite easy now but im having problems on the v3's i know that they are harder thats not the problem the problem im having is that some of the holds are to far for me to reach as im not on the tall side should i keep trying these routes or should i only look at the routes that are more suited to my size if that is possible to do in climbing. stimo
I would go with the second choice where you stop trying to improve after five weeks of climbing.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 28, 2011, 7:33 PM
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stimo wrote: Hi all just a quick question for you. Ive only been climbing for 5 weeks and im finding that v1 & v2s quite easy now but im having problems on the v3's i know that they are harder thats not the problem the problem im having is that some of the holds are to far for me to reach as im not on the tall side should i keep trying these routes or should i only look at the routes that are more suited to my size if that is possible to do in climbing. stimo
You should continue to try them and get some "beta" in person from someone. Without us being able to see the problem, it's impossible for us to give you specific feed back. The "reach" issue could be that you're not getting your feet high enough, it could be a technique or core strength issue (i.e. correct body position/turning hip into wall, etc. will often increase your reach). It could also be a power issue. Sometimes problems are set to force more dynamic movement. OR...it could have been a poorly set problem by a tall person. In other words, it's reachy. But, those "reachy" problems can often be overcome by strength, technique and power.
Josh
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stimo
Aug 28, 2011, 8:46 PM
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thanks for your reply so what your saying is keep looking at the v1's and 2's still then look at v3's later on. That then leads me to the next question when do i start looking at the v3's????
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stimo
Aug 28, 2011, 8:58 PM
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thankyou for your repley.
The routes were set by a tall person as i know the person that set them. I dont feel i have a power or core problem as im in quite good shape as i gym it quite abit but you might have a point about technique so i will look at that and i will also still look at power and core just to rule them out as being one of the problems.
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johnwesely
Aug 28, 2011, 10:58 PM
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stimo wrote: thanks for your reply so what your saying is keep looking at the v1's and 2's still then look at v3's later on. That then leads me to the next question when do i start looking at the v3's????
Look at the V3s now. Don't just give up on the problems you can't do.
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wrbill
Aug 29, 2011, 7:41 AM
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stimo wrote: thankyou for your repley. The routes were set by a tall person as i know the person that set them. I dont feel i have a power or core problem as im in quite good shape as i gym it quite abit but you might have a point about technique so i will look at that and i will also still look at power and core just to rule them out as being one of the problems.
You may know since you have gone to the gym quite a bit, but how big your muscles are is not an indication of the power you have when it comes to climbing. Your power that you have may be different than is needed to do the problem.
Just keep trying and working the problems. As you said the problem was set by someone tall, so it may not be something that you can do, but that does not mean stop trying. There was a guy in a gym that I went to who would set routes for him and he was 6'3" and he had to reach to make the move, I could not do it as the hold was to small too dyno to.
As far as moving to the next level up, just try the harder problems but be careful and give your self time.
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stimo
Aug 29, 2011, 3:23 PM
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Ok thank you for your comments lads i'll keep them in mind as im climbing from now on & keep working at the problems as i might find a way of doing them if not its still going to be fun trying also ill take some pics tonight so you can see the routes im getting stuck on.
stimo
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aethyr
Aug 29, 2011, 5:08 PM
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I've just started breaking into V3s after about 2 months of climbing. I can tell you that the V3s aren't based on height, at least not at my gym. At THOUGHT they were at first when I was at V2 level - the V3s seemed impossibly out of my reach.
But now, they're not - the V4 are now the new impossible 
The V2s at my gym have taught me better technique - each of them had a different and specific technique or trick I needed to employ to efficiently work them. I appreciate now how well designed they were to introduce beginners to specific techniques and balance.
And then one day, when I tried that impossible V3, it wasn't so hard anymore because I began to adapt my V2 techniques on them.
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stimo
Aug 29, 2011, 10:36 PM
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 I know what your saying about the v2 & v3 looking impossible when you first start climbing but now v2's are not the problem its some v3's but after talking on hear about the problems im having with them it's sorted theme out as I've gone back and done some v2's tonight wile looking at my technique I done this for and hour i then went & looked at the v3's I was stuck on & nailed em first time  .
I've been reading that alot of people have been going on about technique & how this is the key & all I can say is im a fool for not taking it in & putting it in to practice but no longer as I now know how important it is.
I can say this tho if someone asks me what the key to climbing well my first reply will be TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE so ide like to say Thank you lads ive been learned a big lesson today you may think you can climb but without technique you have nothing.
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adelphos
Aug 29, 2011, 11:40 PM
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You are probably at the end of really quick gains. This doesn't mean that you are climbing the wrong kind of routes, it just means it took you a few weeks to really find your limits.
V3 sounds like your boulder problem project area. Focus on the routes you can climb, but devote regular time and energy to the routes that are simply beyond your reach. Expect that some problems will take weeks to solve.
Height is a limitation, but every climber has their own limitations. You can't use that as an excuse. My wife is fairly short and frequently get's reaches that are beyond my abilities simply because she has great technique. Don't sell yourself short (pun intended)...
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Rock-Monkey
Sep 1, 2011, 5:51 PM
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I was having the same issue where i could not figure out what was making this one over hang area so hard to reach... I have been working on this particular problem for two weeks, slowly but surely my form started getting better, i became faster at just getting to the area i would having issues with but never pulling it off.
Then i watched someone else do it once, all i did was watch his feet, as the arms movements where pretty implicit. then... right before he went for the overhang grab i noticed that he had the opposite foot on the hold i was using! it was a simple as a food switch to get into better position and take less stress off of my upper body when making the reach that made all the difference. I gave it one shot and BAM! i did it.
Sometimes watching someone who has more experience than you go after a problem that you just cant figure out is all you need to figure out (normally) that one move that makes this boulder look like a mountain. Good luck!
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cracklover
Sep 1, 2011, 8:17 PM
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Good luck. You've gotten sound advice (although some was slightly teasing).
One other piece of advice - if you're going to stick around here, please learn and utilize some appropriate punctuation. Your posts are a chore to read.
Cheers!
GO
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j_ung
Sep 1, 2011, 8:19 PM
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stimo wrote: Hi all just a quick question for you. Ive only been climbing for 5 weeks and im finding that v1 & v2s quite easy now but im having problems on the v3's i know that they are harder thats not the problem the problem im having is that some of the holds are to far for me to reach as im not on the tall side should i keep trying these routes or should i only look at the routes that are more suited to my size if that is possible to do in climbing. stimo
I can virtually guarantee you that this is a technique issue, not one of size.
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cracklover
Sep 1, 2011, 10:48 PM
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j_ung wrote: stimo wrote: Hi all just a quick question for you. Ive only been climbing for 5 weeks and im finding that v1 & v2s quite easy now but im having problems on the v3's i know that they are harder thats not the problem the problem im having is that some of the holds are to far for me to reach as im not on the tall side should i keep trying these routes or should i only look at the routes that are more suited to my size if that is possible to do in climbing. stimo I can virtually guarantee you that this is a technique issue, not one of size.
Um...
G
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