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ENARE
Aug 31, 2011, 10:35 PM
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It seems like a lot of times we miss the boat when we buy all this nice new shiny gear and don't pay attention to the pice of gear that will actually work for or against us to get up the wall. I have been noticing that I have hit a plateau with my climbing and occasionally I feel very heavy when climbing and am not experiencing the same lightness that I had when I first got back into climbing. I can easily blame this on a few factors: - Pushing difficult grades - Lack of sleep - Not climbing as much on a weekly basis as I was - Disgusting FRS energy drinks that I will never have again However, I am also beginning to feel that my stomach and weight is also coming into play as well. Does anybody have a list of foods that will help me to maintain energy. Especially when it comes to climbing and what food can I consume before I climb that will help me to climb lighter rather than climb heavier. If any of this makes sense, i would appreciate your answers.
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onceahardman
Aug 31, 2011, 10:54 PM
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This is not in any way meant to demean you, but how old are you? People's bodies change with age. Stay lean.
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ENARE
Aug 31, 2011, 11:04 PM
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onceahardman wrote: This is not in any way meant to demean you, but how old are you? People's bodies change with age. Stay lean. I am 26 and lean. 5'11'' and 155 lbs. However, I really only know to avoid sugars and fats but not necessarily what to eat.
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damienclimber
Aug 31, 2011, 11:08 PM
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ENARE wrote: It seems like a lot of times we miss the boat when we buy all this nice new shiny gear and don't pay attention to the pice of gear that will actually work for or against us to get up the wall. I have been noticing that I have hit a plateau with my climbing and occasionally I feel very heavy when climbing and am not experiencing the same lightness that I had when I first got back into climbing. I can easily blame this on a few factors: - Pushing difficult grades - Lack of sleep - Not climbing as much on a weekly basis as I was - Disgusting FRS energy drinks that I will never have again However, I am also beginning to feel that my stomach and weight is also coming into play as well. Does anybody have a list of foods that will help me to maintain energy. Especially when it comes to climbing and what food can I consume before I climb that will help me to climb lighter rather than climb heavier. If any of this makes sense, i would appreciate your answers. Your answer is in your question, RE-READ!!
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adelphos
Aug 31, 2011, 11:50 PM
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People are too quick to blame diet for the way they feel. Sounds like you might have hit a wall. Try taking a month off of climbing and see how you come back. If you aren't exercising outside of climbing, you should really consider that. You might take a look at Crossfit as that has added a lot to my overall fitness level.
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spikeddem
Aug 31, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Lentils Brown Rice Apples Bananas Try to have your fats come from healthy sources: pumpkin seeds, fish, healthy oils, etc. Make sure to consume proper amounts of protein. Sleep seems to always place a bigger factor than I anticipate. Especially when frustration (and along with it destruction of technique) comes into play. At 155 and 5'11", I'm not sure you really need to lose weight, but eating healthier may help you. What's more likely the culprit is lack of "sustained" technique. One thing I think a lot of people miss while reading The Self-Coached climber is the role of the subtleties in technique. That is to say that by the time someone is a 5.11+ climber, they're probably familiar with every fundamental technique (backsteps, drop knees, cross-throughs, toeing-in, heel hooks, etc), and they apply them in obvious situations. Yet, the key to making harder climbs feel easier is to apply these movements on a much more subtle level and at a much faster rate. Simultaneously, paying attention to (body) tension becomes increasingly more important. Doing both of these things will spare huge reserves of energy for later use on a route, whether its a crux or continuing through sustained climbing. Like I said, I get the feeling a lot of people that climb 5.12 read The SCC and think "psh, I already know what a heel hook is," and end up just doing 4x4s and hangboarding. There's nothing wrong with that, but they could do better. Here's an example: One of my weaknesses is maintaining tension through every sequence regardless of difficulty, and especially on onsight attempts where my brain is taking in a bunch of other things into account. By having the easiest problems in my 4x4 have tension-y aspects to them, it will (ideally) encourage my body to maintain body tension. TL;DR I guess what I'm saying is that people have a tendency to focus their attention on the crux of a route, but then overlook other moves on the route where they can save energy for the crux.
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onceahardman
Sep 1, 2011, 10:47 AM
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ENARE wrote: onceahardman wrote: This is not in any way meant to demean you, but how old are you? People's bodies change with age. Stay lean. I am 26 and lean. 5'11'' and 155 lbs. However, I really only know to avoid sugars and fats but not necessarily what to eat. OK, you are 26, prime of life. Have you actually gained weight, measurably, on the scale? Or is this just a "feeling" you have? There are cures for weight gain, but I can't help you with feelings.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Sep 1, 2011, 11:30 AM
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ENARE wrote: - Disgusting FRS energy drinks that I will never have again ... Does anybody have a list of foods that will help me to maintain energy. Especially when it comes to climbing and what food can I consume before I climb that will help me to climb lighter rather than climb heavier. Don't go with the faux stuff, chew coca leaves. (This may be slightly illegal depending on where you live.)
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sungam
Sep 1, 2011, 11:51 AM
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ENARE wrote: onceahardman wrote: This is not in any way meant to demean you, but how old are you? People's bodies change with age. Stay lean. I am 26 and lean. 5'11'' and 155 lbs. However, I really only know to avoid sugars and fats but not necessarily what to eat. Buy "Gold MEdal Nutrition" by Glen Cardwell. It's like 15 bucks on amazon, and has a metric shit ton of information on nutrition in it. It will clear everything up. Also have a look at JT512's "how to lose weight for climbing". Sugar is not making you fat (fructose overload being the exception).
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Sep 2, 2011, 3:13 PM
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I saw this over at velonews. Might be helpful: http://velonews.competitor.com/...-burning-zone_134214
In reply to: Exercising within the fat-burning zone is indeed an effective way to burn off excess body fat, but it is not necessarily more effective than exercising at higher intensities, where carbohydrate burning is greater and fat burning is less. The reason has to do with what happens after moderate-intensity and high-intensity workouts are performed. Your body replaces burned calories in a specific order. In short, if you burn mostly fat during a workout, you will store mostly fat afterward. And if you burn mostly carbohydrate during a workout, you will store mostly carbohydrate afterward. If you want to get leaner, it doesn’t really matter which kind of calories your muscles use predominately during exercise.
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circa86
Sep 2, 2011, 4:18 PM
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I agree with the others. Not sure if dieting is necessary in your case. Maybe consider working out those useful muscles outside of climbing. Iin my opinion, take it or leave it, caffiene is a good and for the most part safe way to enhance your climbing. Studies have shown that people who consume 200mg of caffiene (+ or - per body weight) have been able to perform better as far as lifting and exercise go. Along with those extra pull-ups maybe grab a coffee or dew before the climb. ______ Live long, love life, be free ______
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jt512
Sep 2, 2011, 4:55 PM
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: I saw this over at velonews. Might be helpful: http://velonews.competitor.com/...-burning-zone_134214 In reply to: Exercising within the fat-burning zone is indeed an effective way to burn off excess body fat, but it is not necessarily more effective than exercising at higher intensities, where carbohydrate burning is greater and fat burning is less. The reason has to do with what happens after moderate-intensity and high-intensity workouts are performed. Your body replaces burned calories in a specific order. In short, if you burn mostly fat during a workout, you will store mostly fat afterward. And if you burn mostly carbohydrate during a workout, you will store mostly carbohydrate afterward. If you want to get leaner, it doesn’t really matter which kind of calories your muscles use predominately during exercise. First of all, the higher the intensity the exercise, the more calories you burn per unit time; so higher intensity exercise is, by definition, a more efficient way to burn calories. Secondly, you will lose body fat if and only if the total calories you burn over a period of time exceed the total calories you consume from food. This is true even if all the calories you burn while exercising come from your glycogen reserves (ie, are carbohydrates). This is because your body will replenish your glycogen reserves by using carbohydrate that you subsequent eat. Since this dietary carbohydrate is not burned, the body must burn an equivalent number of calories of body fat to meet the body's energy needs. So, as usual, the amount of body fat you burn is (approximately) equal to your total caloric deficit. Exercising at higher intensity will result in faster loss of body fat, even if fat is not the primary fuel for the exercise. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 2, 2011, 4:56 PM)
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jomagam
Sep 2, 2011, 5:41 PM
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jt512 wrote: First of all, the higher the intensity the exercise, the more calories you burn per unit time; so higher intensity exercise is, by definition, a more efficient way to burn calories. Secondly, you will lose body fat if and only if the total calories you burn over a period of time exceed the total calories you consume from food. This is true even if all the calories you burn while exercising come from your glycogen reserves (ie, are carbohydrates). This is because your body will replenish your glycogen reserves by using carbohydrate that you subsequent eat. Since this dietary carbohydrate is not burned, the body must burn an equivalent number of calories of body fat to meet the body's energy needs. So, as usual, the amount of body fat you burn is (approximately) equal to your total caloric deficit. Exercising at higher intensity will result in faster loss of body fat, even if fat is not the primary fuel for the exercise. Jay Technically this is all true, but misses the big picture. You should ask what the most effective way is to lose fat, not what's most efficient. Most time efficient would be doing 200 meter sprints, but nobody is really suggesting that as a strategy. Effectiveness will depend on many factors, such as how long you can maintain doing that exercise, how hungry will you feel afterwards, etc...
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shimanilami
Sep 2, 2011, 6:16 PM
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Are you saying that you want to lose weight? If so, you're nuts. 5'11" and 155lbs is anything but overweight. Or are you saying that you're bonking during your workouts and want advice on how to maintain output throughout your workout? If so, then I'd suggest that you first consider how you eat throughout the day. If you're nearly hypoglycemic or under-hydrated before you even start your workout, then you will feel heavy and weak (among other things) before too long. If you think you're in a good place when you start, but burn through your fuel reserves during your workout, then I'd suggest drinks like Cytomax, Accelerade, and the like. These will raise your electrolyte and blood sugar levels, and also hydrate you, which you should be doing anyway. In my experience with climbing, cycling and fighting, such drinks are easy to take in and digest, and since they're in the water I'd be drinking anyway, I don't notice any added "heaviness" at all.
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bearbreeder
Sep 2, 2011, 6:41 PM
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honnolds diet in squamish ... climb long, climb hard ... and ask yrself what yr doing wrong
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jt512
Sep 2, 2011, 7:09 PM
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jomagam wrote: jt512 wrote: First of all, the higher the intensity the exercise, the more calories you burn per unit time; so higher intensity exercise is, by definition, a more efficient way to burn calories. Secondly, you will lose body fat if and only if the total calories you burn over a period of time exceed the total calories you consume from food. This is true even if all the calories you burn while exercising come from your glycogen reserves (ie, are carbohydrates). This is because your body will replenish your glycogen reserves by using carbohydrate that you subsequent eat. Since this dietary carbohydrate is not burned, the body must burn an equivalent number of calories of body fat to meet the body's energy needs. So, as usual, the amount of body fat you burn is (approximately) equal to your total caloric deficit. Exercising at higher intensity will result in faster loss of body fat, even if fat is not the primary fuel for the exercise. Jay Technically this is all true, but misses the big picture. It is not missing any big pictures. It is simply correcting the information in the quote.
In reply to: You should ask what the most effective way is to lose fat, not what's most efficient. Most time efficient would be doing 200 meter sprints, but nobody is really suggesting that as a strategy. That's right. No one is. So why bring it up.
In reply to: Effectiveness will depend on many factors, such as how long you can maintain doing that exercise, how hungry will you feel afterwards, etc... "Effectiveness" would simply be intensity × time, which I would think would be obvious. I'm not aware of any evidence that different exercise intensities result in different levels of hunger, and I have no idea what "etc's" you have in mind, if any. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 2, 2011, 7:11 PM)
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damienclimber
Sep 2, 2011, 10:16 PM
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ENARE wrote: It seems like a lot of times we miss the boat when we buy all this nice new shiny gear and don't pay attention to the pice of gear that will actually work for or against us to get up the wall. I have been noticing that I have hit a plateau with my climbing and occasionally I feel very heavy when climbing and am not experiencing the same lightness that I had when I first got back into climbing. I can easily blame this on a few factors: - Pushing difficult grades - Lack of sleep - Not climbing as much on a weekly basis as I was - Disgusting FRS energy drinks that I will never have again However, I am also beginning to feel that my stomach and weight is also coming into play as well. Does anybody have a list of foods that will help me to maintain energy. Especially when it comes to climbing and what food can I consume before I climb that will help me to climb lighter rather than climb heavier. If any of this makes sense, i would appreciate your answers. After careful consideration, Probiotics may help you feel lighter and less sluggish. I hope it helps.
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ENARE
Sep 2, 2011, 11:25 PM
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spikeddem wrote: Lentils Brown Rice Apples Bananas Try to have your fats come from healthy sources: pumpkin seeds, fish, healthy oils, etc. Make sure to consume proper amounts of protein. Sleep seems to always place a bigger factor than I anticipate. Especially when frustration (and along with it destruction of technique) comes into play. At 155 and 5'11", I'm not sure you really need to lose weight, but eating healthier may help you. What's more likely the culprit is lack of "sustained" technique. One thing I think a lot of people miss while reading The Self-Coached climber is the role of the subtleties in technique. That is to say that by the time someone is a 5.11+ climber, they're probably familiar with every fundamental technique (backsteps, drop knees, cross-throughs, toeing-in, heel hooks, etc), and they apply them in obvious situations. Yet, the key to making harder climbs feel easier is to apply these movements on a much more subtle level and at a much faster rate. Simultaneously, paying attention to (body) tension becomes increasingly more important. Doing both of these things will spare huge reserves of energy for later use on a route, whether its a crux or continuing through sustained climbing. Like I said, I get the feeling a lot of people that climb 5.12 read The SCC and think "psh, I already know what a heel hook is," and end up just doing 4x4s and hangboarding. There's nothing wrong with that, but they could do better. Here's an example: One of my weaknesses is maintaining tension through every sequence regardless of difficulty, and especially on onsight attempts where my brain is taking in a bunch of other things into account. By having the easiest problems in my 4x4 have tension-y aspects to them, it will (ideally) encourage my body to maintain body tension. TL;DR I guess what I'm saying is that people have a tendency to focus their attention on the crux of a route, but then overlook other moves on the route where they can save energy for the crux. Hello - Thank you for the heads up. I agree that sustained technique is also a bit of a drainer as well. I will pay more attention to the foods as well. I am not interested in losing any weight but I just want to feel more energy when I climb and not like I have a watermelon in my stomach. I will start to think more about my body tension as well, I have been in positions where this is really needed and I have to tell myself to keep tight but it is not something I am always thinking about.
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ENARE
Sep 2, 2011, 11:28 PM
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onceahardman wrote: ENARE wrote: onceahardman wrote: This is not in any way meant to demean you, but how old are you? People's bodies change with age. Stay lean. I am 26 and lean. 5'11'' and 155 lbs. However, I really only know to avoid sugars and fats but not necessarily what to eat. OK, you are 26, prime of life. Have you actually gained weight, measurably, on the scale? Or is this just a "feeling" you have? There are cures for weight gain, but I can't help you with feelings. It is more of a feeling of heaviness. I am not gaining weight. However, I can tell that it is directly related to the foods that I am eating and that they are working more against me than for.
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ENARE
Sep 2, 2011, 11:32 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: honnolds diet in squamish ... climb long, climb hard ... and ask yrself what yr doing wrong [IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/2yvnvop.png[/IMG] I once read that Michael Phelps would consume 10,000 calories a day when training. In his diets were two pizzas among many other foods. Not to mention that Alex Honnold is a beast!
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skoorbasil
Sep 4, 2011, 2:39 AM
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I would reccomend clean protiens and whole grains.maybe oatmeal bananas avocados melons black beans lean meats.Deffinately no energy drinks as they lead to a bonk at some point!
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jawaeater
Sep 11, 2011, 6:31 AM
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http://fitbie.msn.com/get-fit/tips/7-rules-ripped Read this, 7 rules of the ripped. Its some of the best diet advice ive ever heard.
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sungam
Sep 11, 2011, 8:29 AM
Post #23 of 40
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skoorbasil wrote: I would reccomend clean protiens and whole grains. What do you mean by "clean proteins"? Just curious. And by energy drinks do you mean caffeine drinks or sports drinks?
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skoorbasil
Sep 11, 2011, 2:42 PM
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By clean protein i mean protein with no fat or low fat content.Such as skinless chicken breast,tuna,legumes,etc. All energy drinks either containing caffeine and sugar after the stimulants wear off your usually left feeling the bonk.
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essay
Sep 11, 2011, 3:00 PM
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When climbers begin to blame their diets for their performance, serious danger, but you could be right. Probably you just need to try harder and suffer more to break through that platau, if your eating crap that could affect you as well. At 26, however, you probably got something else going on as well. I am 5.11 and used to weight 160 when I was your age(climbed 5.11) I am now 32 and weigh 148 (climb 5.13). I have eaten tons of fish, chicken, and other such proteins while not eating pork and beef (I lie, I ate a steak last night). I eat leafy greens every night. Ever morning I eat complete carbs. Lunch are a mixture of carbs and protein that varies depending on if I climb that day. It's hard to describe the next part. I can only call it eating what you deserve. If you have not worked out in two days and you won't work out that day, your diet should reflect your lack of exercize. Eat big after a workout, but try to manage your consumption if you are not planning on working out, don't count your calories, but embrace hunger. It is a natural state for humans to be hungry, there is nothing wrong with it as long as you satisfy your hunger eventally. When as the last time you were hungry but you ran a mile anyway? It is a dangerous slope, it seems most people are either comfortable with stuffing their holes until they are porked out or instead develop an eating disorder. I make sure I eat four times per day, but the food I consume is for energy purposes, not for emotional ones. Eat for energy, not cause it's 12:00. I believe that is how I have lost 10 pounds and yes, weighing less has played a significant roll in my climbing harder. Good luck.
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