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thewyseclimber
Sep 6, 2011, 5:47 PM
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So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general.
I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri.
Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.
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coastal_climber
Sep 6, 2011, 6:16 PM
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semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes...
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kovacs69
Sep 6, 2011, 6:28 PM
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I have had good luck with New England ropes. I also use Edelweiss ropes. GX has some good deals running on Edelweiss right now. Most of their 70m bi-patterns are dry ropes though.
http://www.gearexpress.biz/...tegory_Code=ROEDELCO
JB
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thewyseclimber
Sep 6, 2011, 6:28 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes...
....such as? That is my impression, but any other advice? I've owned two Beals. I like the handling, but not the durability.
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moose_droppings
Sep 6, 2011, 6:57 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote: So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general. I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri. Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.
I like NE Ropes. I don't believe you can go wrong with them. Supple, good hand and durable. I'll buy more of them when the ones I have now wear out.
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billcoe_
Sep 6, 2011, 7:20 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote: I'm mostly interested in handling and durability
Good and Good. Good to go.
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USnavy
Sep 6, 2011, 7:36 PM
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I would say they are one of the best brands on the market. They are surely the largest rope manufacturer in this market (not Maxim, New England). I own five New England ropes and love them all, they are great. Their KMII static rope is the the most burly static rope manufactured IMO. However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force.
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coastal_climber
Sep 6, 2011, 10:23 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote: coastal_climber wrote: semi-durable. Handling goes pretty fast IMO. There are better ropes... ....such as? That is my impression, but any other advice? I've owned two Beals. I like the handling, but not the durability.
Sterling.
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notapplicable
Sep 7, 2011, 2:42 AM
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I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well.
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spikeddem
Sep 7, 2011, 3:09 AM
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notapplicable wrote: I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well.
This purchase was per my recommendation. I later decked on mine. Have you decked on yours yet, NA? Did you lose the decking instructions?
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healyje
Sep 7, 2011, 5:51 AM
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USnavy wrote: However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force.
Huh? I do nothing but trad, climb over some marginal pro at times, use a 9.9 Glider, and have take enough falls on it to say I have no such concerns about it or any other rope with similar impact ratings. In general, when you add a couple of soft humans to the system the impact rating differences in the ropes are just not that big a deal. I would suggest it's more of a deal to advanced sport climbers who are expert in dynamic belays and possess a "princess and the pea" sensibility around their falling.
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notapplicable
Sep 7, 2011, 5:59 AM
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spikeddem wrote: notapplicable wrote: I have a 9.9mm Glider and I like it a lot. After 6 months of use it is still in great shape and handles well. It is a bit stiffer than Mammut and Monster ropes I've owned but not enough to matter. The 1 over 1 sheath weave is very nice as well. This purchase was per my recommendation. I later decked on mine. Have you decked on yours yet, NA? Did you lose the decking instructions?
Thankfully I read the supplemental handbook online which contained an unabridged list of "Best Practices".
Not decking was #34 subsection b, if I remember correctly. Dodged a bullet with that one for sure.
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thewyseclimber
Sep 7, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #13 of 22
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I think I've narrowed it down to the New England Glider 9.9mm vs the Edelweiss Element 10.2.
Any thoughts on the comparison? Thanks all for the input.
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USnavy
Sep 7, 2011, 11:16 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote: I think I've narrowed it down to the New England Glider 9.9mm vs the Edelweiss Element 10.2. Any thoughts on the comparison? Thanks all for the input.
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camjammer
Dec 31, 2011, 7:01 PM
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healyje wrote: USnavy wrote: However I would not use any of their Glider ropes for trad simply because they have a really high impact force. Huh? I do nothing but trad, climb over some marginal pro at times, use a 9.9 Glider, and have take enough falls on it to say I have no such concerns about it or any other rope with similar impact ratings. In general, when you add a couple of soft humans to the system the impact rating differences in the ropes are just not that big a deal. I would suggest it's more of a deal to advanced sport climbers who are expert in dynamic belays and possess a "princess and the pea" sensibility around their falling.
healyje, is the 9.9 Glider you use std or double dry?In reply to:
(This post was edited by camjammer on Dec 31, 2011, 7:22 PM)
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healyje
Dec 31, 2011, 8:27 PM
Post #16 of 22
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2X Dry...
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dan2see
Jan 1, 2012, 2:21 AM
Post #17 of 22
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Always choose the rope with the coolest color.
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acorneau
Jan 1, 2012, 3:01 AM
Post #19 of 22
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My second rope ever was a Maxim/NE rope that was almost this exact same color.
Still have the remnants in my garage (somewhere).
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dan2see
Jan 1, 2012, 6:54 PM
Post #20 of 22
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Actually, experience shows how these ropes are the best choices:
New England Maxim "Apex", Single, Green/Yellow
10.2 mm,
"STD-DRY" dry core, non-dry sheath
12 falls, 70.0 gm/m, impact 9.4 kN, static elongation 4.8%, dynamic elongation 29%
excellent feel, low friction for Rockies limestone.
Mammut half-rope for ice:
8.5 mm, dry for ice
colors: blue or orange
"The high sheath proportion and tight weave make the Genesis a very durable half rope."
"Each yarn is Teflon-coated to reduce friction and fully utilize each fibre when loaded, for a higher strength-to-weight ratio."
"Sheath and core are both dry-treated to protect from moisture and dirt."
Static cord for cordalette:
7mm
(This post was edited by dan2see on Jan 1, 2012, 7:13 PM)
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jolery
Feb 10, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #21 of 22
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thewyseclimber wrote: So I'm looking for a new rope: 70m, bi-pattern, around 10mm. I don't really care about dry treated. I prefer how non-dry ropes handle, in general. I see there is a New England meeting my specs, for a relatively good price, but I've never used New England ropes. What can you tell me about them? I'm mostly interested in handling and durability. I generally use an ATC and a Trango Cinch, although occasionally I use a friend's GriGri. Other recommendations are welcome as well. I'd like to spend around $200. Unfortunately bi pattern, 70m usually means that's a low estimate.
What did you go with? I've used NE ropes exclusively for the last several ropes. I've had a couple of Apex 10.5 and loved those - very durable and good handling. My current is a 9.9 mm glider bipattern. Handles like a dream, quick to belay and clip, but doesn't ever feel like it's too small for a standard ATC. The ultra tight weave of the Glider seems to make it susceptible to sheath damage more so than other weave patterns but mine is in great condition after a year of heavy use from working sport routes to long alpine routes.
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thewyseclimber
Feb 10, 2012, 8:50 PM
Post #22 of 22
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jolery wrote: What did you go with?
Ended up getting a Sterling Marathon 9.9 60m bi pattern. I only had the chance to do maybe 15 routes on it before the season was done, but whipped on it quite a few times. So far I am happy with it, and very pleased to finally have the bi-pattern.
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