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UpToTheOzone
Sep 7, 2011, 3:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2011
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I want to learn as much as I possibly can on this subject. I was taught by another climber last week, and watched a couple other groups do it. I understand it to some degree, but not enough yet to put a partner's life on it.
I was shown not to redirect.
I'm sure both methods of redirecting and not have advantages and disadvantages. Which do you prefer and why? Where else can I get more info on this? Pictures and videos would be a good help. I found this: http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tttrad237/ which sounds very similar to what I was shown at the crag. The picture is a bit small, and I want lots more information on this subject. Thanks in advance for your help guys! (and don't worry, I will seek instruction from someone with enough experience before I actually try it!)
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billl7
Sep 7, 2011, 3:41 AM
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I prefer to not redirect as I believe there is more potential that way for getting jerked around. Instead, I do A-B-C: Belayer lined up between Anchor and Climber.
I do think it takes quite a bit of experience to get each non-redirected top-rope belay 'right' each time. For some time, I'd find myself in mid-belay thinking "Hmmm, this would be better if ..."
Bill L
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bearbreeder
Sep 7, 2011, 4:06 AM
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it all depends on the circumstance ... there are times when a redirect is appropriate ... other times when straight off the harness works better
that said, if yr top belaying off bolts as you probably should when starting off ... a redirect would probably be a good idea to start, there has been a case where someone lost control of the rope when lowering off the harness ... possibly because they didnt expect the change in orientation of the atc
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moose_droppings
Sep 7, 2011, 4:25 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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UpToTheOzone wrote: I want to learn as much as I possibly can on this subject. I was taught by another climber last week, and watched a couple other groups do it. I understand it to some degree, but not enough yet to put a partner's life on it. I was shown not to redirect. I'm sure both methods of redirecting and not have advantages and disadvantages. Which do you prefer and why? Where else can I get more info on this? Pictures and videos would be a good help. I found this: http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tttrad237/ which sounds very similar to what I was shown at the crag. The picture is a bit small, and I want lots more information on this subject. Thanks in advance for your help guys! (and don't worry, I will seek instruction from someone with enough experience before I actually try it!)
If it's strictly belaying off the top of the route I'll redirect most of the time. You shouldn't get pulled around if you've anticipated the direction of pull and you keep a tight belay.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 7, 2011, 12:27 PM
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UpToTheOzone wrote: I want to learn as much as I possibly can on this subject. I was taught by another climber last week, and watched a couple other groups do it. I understand it to some degree, but not enough yet to put a partner's life on it.
The best advice I can give you is do not put too much stock in any one climbers opinion, no matter how experienced they are. Learn all the ways and each one's advantages and disadvantages.
In reply to: I was shown not to redirect. I'm sure both methods of redirecting and not have advantages and disadvantages. Which do you prefer and why? Where else can I get more info on this? Pictures and videos would be a good help. I found this: http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tttrad237/ which sounds very similar to what I was shown at the crag. The picture is a bit small, and I want lots more information on this subject. Thanks in advance for your help guys! (and don't worry, I will seek instruction from someone with enough experience before I actually try it!)
That tech tip is more about extending yourself as the leader so that you can see and/or hear your second, not so much a case for redirecting or not redirecting. As far the tech tip goes, I have a much simpler way, but I won't get into that. As far as redirecting, I will use it sometimes, mainly in these two instances:
1. The pitch ends in a significant traverse. By redirecting through a solid piece or through the anchor itself, if the second falls, i will be pulled up, not sideways, which would shift most of the force to one side of the anchor.
2. If there is a crux close to a ledge or the ground and I want keep the belay as tight as possible or take out as much stretch of the rope as I can. If I redirect, I can often use my body to do that, whereas if I belay directly off the anchor, or from harness with no redirect, I can't.
Another less important one, might be comfort of the belay, but that is way down the list of things to consider.
The major disadvantage of the redirect is that it puts more force on the anchor.
Josh
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tolman_paul
Sep 7, 2011, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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As with everything in climbing, it depends. Generally I prefer to belay directly to the second. It makes for a much smoother belay and I can move the rope faster through the belay device. Seldom have I had a belay location large enough that the redirect doesn't end up getting in my way when trying to quickly move the rope through the belay device.
The downside would be if the second is working the route and hanging on the rope alot. It's pretty uncomfortable to be holding your partner directly off your harness for extended periods of time, so a redirect is preferred in that instance.
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potreroed
Sep 9, 2011, 12:56 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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I do most of my climbing on multi-pitch bolted routes and always belay off my harness with a re-direct.
When trad climbing there's many more variables to consider so it all depends...
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