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askidmore81
Sep 9, 2011, 4:55 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2010
Posts: 12
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I'd love to get some input from others with these shoes before I buy them. I'm ready to give up my MadRock Phoenix and get something new. I recently bought a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Verde and I love the shoe but they are too tight to practice in.
The catch is that no one around me carries shoes in my size so I'm left with the online route and the Cliff Rock and Defy VTRs look like good options for a gym/general shoe.
Here's what I'm after:
-Something that will actually smear. The Phoenix slide right off any plastic hold I put them on. I can smear better with VFF (no I don't actually climb in them but have tested for comparison)
-Reasonable edging. I'm not one for standing on micro edges but decent outdoor edging is a must.
-Comfortable enough to wear for a 1-2 hours at a time.
And here's a little background:
-I've been climbing off and on for a few years, still noob status by grades (5.8-5.9) but climb for fun and fitness. I'm kind of late to game at 30 and am 6'-5", 200lb so I focus on form and movement instead of clinging to tiny little crimps.
-Madrock Pheonix in 48.5 are super comfy but too large.
-LaSportiva Scorpions in 47 are too tight. They fit but are too pinched to stand on
-5.10 Verdes in 47 are too tight but I think I can mechanically stretch to be a decent shoe for pushing my limit. As it is now I can stand on the toes but it's too painful to actually climb on.
If I went with the Cliff Rock I'm not sure if I would want a 46.5 or a 47.5. If I go with the Defy then I'd probably go 14. Any suggestion or input would be greatly appreciated.
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tolman_paul
Sep 9, 2011, 5:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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I think if you want a comfortable shoe to wear for a couple hours, you need to look at a traditional climbing boot like the acopa jb.
The modern climbing shoes put your foot into a position that just isn't comfortable for extended wear, and if you size them loose they don't climb well.
Old school boots, even sized slightly loose will still climb well and you can wear them all day. I'd say the more painful and specialized shoes (which are now the most common) really only have advantages on pockets.
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Kartessa
Sep 9, 2011, 9:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
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Have you considered a pair of Moccasyms?
Super comfy and as good as you can make them.
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acorneau
Sep 10, 2011, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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tolman_paul wrote: I think if you want a comfortable shoe to wear for a couple hours, you need to look at a traditional climbing boot like the acopa jb. The modern climbing shoes put your foot into a position that just isn't comfortable for extended wear, and if you size them loose they don't climb well.
Sorry, but this is completely false.
I have always had a pair of shoes that I can wear for 3-4 hours or more (if needed) with no issues.
In the past I've used LS Mythos, FiveTen Spires, and my current shoe is the LS Nago and Arco (lace and Velcro, respectively). I also use some FiveTen Mojaves and Gambits for my "higher performance"shoes and they are sized accordingly.
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askidmore81
Sep 10, 2011, 9:29 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2010
Posts: 12
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For some reason I was overlooking those. It just might be what I was looking for though. I'm going to keep looking into them but after what I've read so far they sound like a better bet than either of the other's I was looking at. Thank for steering me towards them.
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caughtinside
Sep 10, 2011, 9:35 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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You are a big guy. Both those shoes, the Cliff and the Defy, are very soft. I would get something with a little more support, so you can help your feet out. Many shoes are slip lasted. There are a few shoes that are board lasted, like the 5.10 newtons. They are very stiff, too stiff for my liking but they might be good for you.
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damienclimber
Sep 10, 2011, 11:30 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
Posts: 313
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askidmore81 wrote: I'd love to get some input from others with these shoes before I buy them. I'm ready to give up my MadRock Phoenix and get something new. I recently bought a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Verde and I love the shoe but they are too tight to practice in. The catch is that no one around me carries shoes in my size so I'm left with the online route and the Cliff Rock and Defy VTRs look like good options for a gym/general shoe. Here's what I'm after: -Something that will actually smear. The Phoenix slide right off any plastic hold I put them on. I can smear better with VFF (no I don't actually climb in them but have tested for comparison) -Reasonable edging. I'm not one for standing on micro edges but decent outdoor edging is a must. -Comfortable enough to wear for a 1-2 hours at a time. And here's a little background: -I've been climbing off and on for a few years, still noob status by grades (5.8-5.9) but climb for fun and fitness. I'm kind of late to game at 30 and am 6'-5", 200lb so I focus on form and movement instead of clinging to tiny little crimps. -Madrock Pheonix in 48.5 are super comfy but too large. -LaSportiva Scorpions in 47 are too tight. They fit but are too pinched to stand on -5.10 Verdes in 47 are too tight but I think I can mechanically stretch to be a decent shoe for pushing my limit. As it is now I can stand on the toes but it's too painful to actually climb on. If I went with the Cliff Rock I'm not sure if I would want a 46.5 or a 47.5. If I go with the Defy then I'd probably go 14. Any suggestion or input would be greatly appreciated.
Simple solution, find a foot surgeon and have them reduce the size of your feet.
Then you can wear any shoes that you desire.
Or stick to basketball , volleyball where you height will be a +
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askidmore81
Sep 12, 2011, 1:55 PM
Post #8 of 8
(2260 views)
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Registered: Apr 2, 2010
Posts: 12
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Well, I have a pair of Moccosyms on order. They sound like the ticket for a good trainer and all around shoe. And it'll be nice having something light/compact to through in the pack for weekend trips when I might come across some rock to play on and alpine trips.
Thanks for the input everyone.
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