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UpToTheOzone
Sep 19, 2011, 2:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2011
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I'd prefer a multi pitch sport route. Only have ever done single pitch sport and limited trad. Would love to learn to multi pitch trad as well, but I prefer to climb 5.10's and not have to worry about protection. I'll be moving to Colorado in November. Will I have to wait for spring to start climbing? Where can I find a guide or someone to teach me the basics? What areas can you recommend for Sport Crags? Thanks for the advice!
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rtwilli4
Sep 19, 2011, 4:00 AM
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You'll have to wait for a local to give you beta on specific areas but I can guess what they are going to say: There isn't a whole lot of multi-pitch sport in that part of the country. There are areas on this continent with multi-pitch sport but for the most part the big climbs in the US are done without bolts because there is plenty of gear to be found.
I understand that you don't want to "worry about protection" but I think that you are cutting yourself short. There are many people who would rather fall on a stopper or a cam that they placed versus a bolt than someone else put there. There is no reason that you can't become one of those people. By just deciding that you can only climb 5.10 sport and not trad, you are keeping yourself off of some amazing routes.
Without knowing where in Colorado you are moving to, it's hard to say where you'll be able to climb in winter. There are sports in the front range that can be climbed throughout the winter, depending on weather of course. Alternatively, if you are somewhere in the southwest you can always watch the weather in the desert... but then you need to be trad climbing down there.
AMGA guides, or a guide with another form of widely recognized certifications, are the way to go if you want proper instruction. There are likely a ton of guides working where you will be moving to though, and there is no guarantee that you'll get a good one. Again, this is where a local will help you out more than I can, but it's a good idea to ask around and get recommendations. Or you could always try to meet local climbers and find a mentor. Usually being humble and offering to pay for gas/beer and going wherever the guy wants to climb is a good way to find a mentor... that's how I did it.
Finally, Colorado has a ton of easy and moderate trad for you to polish your skills on. Don't count yourself out of being able to climb hard above gear... it will open up SO MANY areas to you!
Have fun!
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 19, 2011, 2:36 PM
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UpToTheOzone wrote: I'd prefer a multi pitch sport route. Only have ever done single pitch sport and limited trad. Would love to learn to multi pitch trad as well, but I prefer to climb 5.10's and not have to worry about protection. I'll be moving to Colorado in November. Will I have to wait for spring to start climbing? Where can I find a guide or someone to teach me the basics? What areas can you recommend for Sport Crags? Thanks for the advice!
If multipitch sport is what you're after, then make many trips to Mexico or move to Europe. In this country, they are few and far between. They exist, but most of the multipitch climbing is trad. My suggestion is start getting your trad on. Their is no reason why you can't continue to climb sport and still dedicate some days to the learning process of placing gear.
As far as Colorado climbing goes, I have climbed in the Denver/Boulder area. Where are you located. From what I understand, there are climbable days year round.
Josh
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Diphthong
Sep 19, 2011, 4:24 PM
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I usually start with the first pitch and go from there.
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ceebo
Sep 19, 2011, 4:31 PM
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If multi pitch sport is what you are after.. look no further than the UK  .
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marc801
Sep 19, 2011, 5:08 PM
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ceebo wrote: If multi pitch sport is what you are after.. look no further than the UK .
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crashkickave
Sep 20, 2011, 2:19 AM
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In any area with good climbing there'll be places around that give some good lessons. Also I've heard of winter climbing but it does not sound fun.
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damienclimber
Sep 21, 2011, 5:58 AM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
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UpToTheOzone wrote: I'd prefer a multi pitch sport route. Only have ever done single pitch sport and limited trad. Would love to learn to multi pitch trad as well, but I prefer to climb 5.10's and not have to worry about protection. I'll be moving to Colorado in November. Will I have to wait for spring to start climbing? Where can I find a guide or someone to teach me the basics? What areas can you recommend for Sport Crags? Thanks for the advice!
so many questions for a 13 year old, don't worry by 15 you will be a pro !
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jt512
Sep 21, 2011, 6:05 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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UpToTheOzone wrote: I'd prefer a multi pitch sport route. Only have ever done single pitch sport and limited trad. Would love to learn to multi pitch trad as well, but I prefer to climb 5.10's and not have to worry about protection. I'll be moving to Colorado in November. Will I have to wait for spring to start climbing? Where can I find a guide or someone to teach me the basics? What areas can you recommend for Sport Crags? Thanks for the advice!
Everyone in Colorado climbs (and bikes and does yoga). When you get here, post to mountainproject.com that you're looking for a partner.
Jay
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surfstar
Sep 21, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2011
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Tuolumne has some multi-pitch bolts only routes, right?
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jt512
Sep 21, 2011, 6:17 AM
Post #12 of 16
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surfstar wrote: Tuolumne has some multi-pitch bolts only routes, right?
Yes, and it's conveniently located only 16 hours from Denver when the pass is open.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 21, 2011, 6:38 AM)
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tolman_paul
Sep 21, 2011, 4:55 PM
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surfstar wrote: Tuolumne has some multi-pitch bolts only routes, right?
Yes, but they are sporting routes, not sport routes. If you can handle bolts 20-50' apart, then go to the meadows.
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2011, 5:59 PM
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1 - Solid Gold to Playin Hooky: http://www.mountainproject.com/...ayin-hooky/106701638
2 - If that feels good, do People's Choice next: http://www.mountainproject.com/...les-choice/105749446
Either of these can be done on a nice sunny day, all winter long.
Make sure you get your shit together and give some thought/practice to belay transitions and multi-pitch raps *before* you get on these routes, as they're both very popular, and what is a fun semi-epic for you is just a big drag for the people behind you trying to get on the route.
After you've done those two routes, you should have a pretty good sense of how it works. There are other decent multi-pitch sport routes in the front range. But do be careful, as not all are any good. Some of them are total crap, and you'll just wind up pulling loose crap down on the climbers doing the decent single pitch routes at the crag.
Feel free to PM me if you need more beta.
Cheers!
GO
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marc801
Sep 21, 2011, 10:58 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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tolman_paul wrote: surfstar wrote: Tuolumne has some multi-pitch bolts only routes, right? Yes, but they are sporting routes, not sport routes. If you can handle bolts 20-50' apart, then go to the meadows.
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