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jordanindenmark


Sep 23, 2011, 2:09 PM
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Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws?
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Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?


uni_jim


Sep 23, 2011, 3:23 PM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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jordanindenmark wrote:
Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?

Yeah, it would be safe enough, just bulky as hell to climb with. I've been to a few places (haffner creek comes to mind) where there are rope "perma-draws" on a few hard routes.


uni_jim


Sep 23, 2011, 3:25 PM
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Re: [uni_jim] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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as a general rule, you use a Double Fishermans to tie loops of rope.


spikeddem


Sep 23, 2011, 3:26 PM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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Why?

Why? why? Why?


jordanindenmark


Sep 23, 2011, 4:03 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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As an experiment. I have a bunch of KM111 static line, and I might consider buying a bunch of Black Diamond Positrons and making my own draws,


essay


Sep 23, 2011, 4:06 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
Why?

Why? why? Why?


Why??? Why??? Why???


marc801


Sep 23, 2011, 4:07 PM
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jordanindenmark wrote:
As an experiment. I have a bunch of KM111 static line, and I might consider buying a bunch of Black Diamond Positrons and making my own draws,
It will work, but you'll hate them because of the excessive bulk.


moose_droppings


Sep 23, 2011, 5:35 PM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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Hawser line might be a little stronger for making draws.


qwert


Sep 25, 2011, 2:51 AM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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As already said: If you do not fuck up the knots, it can be done.
There might even be some situations where such a "quickdraw" might be beneficial, but i cant think of one.

It will be bulky and heavy, and your biners will flip around. also people will look at you funny, if thats a problem for you. The slings for quickdraws are really cheap, so i wouldnt bother with static rope QDs.

qwert


shoo


Sep 25, 2011, 3:12 AM
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Re: [essay] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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essay wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Why?

Why? why? Why?


Why??? Why??? Why???

Why? Whywhywhy?


sungam


Sep 25, 2011, 12:51 PM
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shoo wrote:
essay wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Why?

Why? why? Why?


Why??? Why??? Why???

Why? Whywhywhy?
Why the fuck would you do a dub shit thing like that for?


jordanindenmark


Sep 25, 2011, 6:17 PM
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Well thanks for the info about the safety of it. Actually I thought of a perfect use for it. I know in Devil's Lake in Wisconsin there are a few routes where the TR anchors are far back from the cliff edge. I could use the static line to make a few really long draws to extend the anchor points over the edge. But as for making draws to use on a regular basis probably going to stick with some Black Diamonds.


bearbreeder


Sep 25, 2011, 6:31 PM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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youll be fine .... use a barrel knot or fig on a bite to tie a single line to each biner ...


hyongx


Sep 25, 2011, 8:16 PM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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Y use rope when u can use chain use chain from home depot or lowes or hardware store it is very strong u can get good strong chain for cheap it is mor durable than rope


redlude97


Sep 26, 2011, 12:49 AM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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jordanindenmark wrote:
Well thanks for the info about the safety of it. Actually I thought of a perfect use for it. I know in Devil's Lake in Wisconsin there are a few routes where the TR anchors are far back from the cliff edge. I could use the static line to make a few really long draws to extend the anchor points over the edge. But as for making draws to use on a regular basis probably going to stick with some Black Diamonds.
If you are extending bolted anchors over an edge, use the static line to tie a "quad" instead of making draws.


jordanindenmark


Sep 26, 2011, 2:27 AM
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A Quad?


lena_chita
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Sep 26, 2011, 7:45 AM
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jordanindenmark wrote:
A Quad?


Google search does wonders...

http://mikemclean.ca/...uad-climbing-anchor/


Gmburns2000


Sep 26, 2011, 7:52 AM
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Re: [sungam] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
shoo wrote:
essay wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Why?

Why? why? Why?


Why??? Why??? Why???

Why? Whywhywhy?
Why the fuck would you do a dub shit thing like that for?

seriously?


Partner cracklover


Sep 26, 2011, 8:32 AM
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Re: [jordanindenmark] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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jordanindenmark wrote:
Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?

Yes, it would be safe. Similarly safe, only slightly more irritating for you, and far more entertaining for the crowds who gather to see you climb with your crazy rope-draws: soak your crazy rope-draws in itching powder. That'd be awesome!

Unless you consider that there may be more you care about than merely safety. LOL

Cheers!

GO


jeepnphreak


Sep 26, 2011, 12:21 PM
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cracklover wrote:
jordanindenmark wrote:
Would it be safe to use high strength static line (New England KMIII) to make custom draws? Double figure eight or double fishermen's knot? Dyneema is pretty much static/low stretch material so what would be the difference between using static line and slings? And if not static line what about using excess climbing rope for draws?

Yes, it would be safe. Similarly safe, only slightly more irritating for you, and far more entertaining for the crowds who gather to see you climb with your crazy rope-draws: soak your crazy rope-draws in itching powder. That'd be awesome!

Unless you consider that there may be more you care about than merely safety. LOL

Cheers!

GO


And to top it off learn how to tie a swami belt and really wow the crows. Oh yes use a tripple fishermans onthe cord and you will have perfectly safe draws, like said just bulky.


jordanindenmark


Sep 26, 2011, 9:33 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Using Static Rope for Custom quickdraws? [In reply to]
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Would a quad be a safe anchor for Top Roping. It definitely looks much more bomber then a normal self adjusting anchor. And it does follow SRENE (Strong, Redundant, Equalizing, and No Extension).


sungam


Sep 27, 2011, 4:11 AM
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A quad is the standard top rope setup.


shockabuku


Sep 27, 2011, 9:54 AM
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sungam wrote:
A quad is the standard top rope setup.

Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws.


sungam


Sep 27, 2011, 10:01 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
sungam wrote:
A quad is the standard top rope setup.

Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws.
Sure 2 draws is usual if there are bolted anchors, but for trees+gear anchors, I usually see the quad or similar.


lena_chita
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Sep 27, 2011, 11:00 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
sungam wrote:
A quad is the standard top rope setup.

Really? I have yet to see a quad in use anywhere. Of course, I don't go out with the objective to TR either. The standard I see is two draws.

You never know what you run into...

This summer, we were climbing at Summersville, WV, when a group walked in, just as I was getting ready to climb. I was the last one to go on that route, so we told the guys that we would be off shortly, and they asked if I could possibly climb on their rope and leave it as TR for them. I said I didn't mind, and asked them to hand me two of their quickdraws, for the anchors.

They gave me this weird look and said, "Oh no-no, we use the quad, that's what John Long recommends". And then handed me this monstrocity, tied out of this fat 10.5-11mm static rope, prob 10m of the rope to start, I kid you not, with two beefiest quicklinks I've ever seen at the rope point, and one more of each at the arms.

As I was figuring out how to attach it to my harness and avoid getting bruises all over my legs from the swinging quick links while i climbed, I was very sorry I agreed.

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