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UpToTheOzone
Oct 1, 2011, 5:35 AM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Aug 28, 2011
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Can 7mm accessory cord be used to extend a nut? I'm guessing double looping it would increase the strength, is that needed or is 7mm cord enough when tied with a double fishermans.
Also with a nut, can I put cord through the "basket" of the nut if a carabiner would be in a poor position to rub on rock? Would you double it and clip a draw or biner to the cord afterwards? Is there a concern for the cord to be cut where it connects to the nut? The "Basket" i'm refering to is from John Long's Climbing Anchors book on pg 70. He uses it for a cam but the cam has a sling, not a skinny wire that a nut has.
Thanks for the advice in advance!
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sbaclimber
Oct 1, 2011, 7:58 AM
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UpToTheOzone wrote: Can 7mm accessory cord be used to extend a nut?
UpToTheOzone wrote: Also with a nut, can I put cord through the "basket" of the nut if a carabiner would be in a poor position to rub on rock?
If you are worried about the carabiner being in a bad position on/in the rock (not uncommon), simply "extend" the nut using another nut.
I thought John Long covered this in one of his books, but I may be wrong.
Edit: here's a whole thread for ya....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew_flat;post=2378083
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Oct 1, 2011, 8:08 AM)
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herites
Oct 1, 2011, 8:07 AM
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The strength of the usual 7mm cord is 13 kn. You decide.
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patto
Oct 1, 2011, 11:30 AM
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herites wrote: The strength of the usual 7mm cord is 13 kn. You decide.
When looped it is 26kN. With 25% strength loss for the knot that becomes 19kN.
Good enough.
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rocknice2
Oct 2, 2011, 12:30 AM
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patto wrote: herites wrote: The strength of the usual 7mm cord is 13 kn. You decide. When looped it is 26kN. With 25% strength loss for the knot that becomes 19kN. Good enough.
True, but the issue is the cord over wire. if you double it up it will definitely be stronger and probably hold a small fall. What the actual strength is ??
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 2, 2011, 4:37 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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UpToTheOzone wrote: Can 7mm accessory cord be used to extend a nut? I'm guessing double looping it would increase the strength, is that needed or is 7mm cord enough when tied with a double fishermans. Also with a nut, can I put cord through the "basket" of the nut if a carabiner would be in a poor position to rub on rock? Would you double it and clip a draw or biner to the cord afterwards? Is there a concern for the cord to be cut where it connects to the nut? The "Basket" i'm refering to is from John Long's Climbing Anchors book on pg 70. He uses it for a cam but the cam has a sling, not a skinny wire that a nut has. Thanks for the advice in advance!
I wouldn't like the idea of looping it through the basket. I don't have any pull test data, though. If I really were so short of gear that I couldn't use a carabiner to link it to the nut, I would definitely double it up. If your alternative is no pro, it's worth a shot.
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dr_feelgood
Oct 3, 2011, 2:07 AM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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TarHeelEMT wrote: UpToTheOzone wrote: Can 7mm accessory cord be used to extend a nut? I'm guessing double looping it would increase the strength, is that needed or is 7mm cord enough when tied with a double fishermans. Also with a nut, can I put cord through the "basket" of the nut if a carabiner would be in a poor position to rub on rock? Would you double it and clip a draw or biner to the cord afterwards? Is there a concern for the cord to be cut where it connects to the nut? The "Basket" i'm refering to is from John Long's Climbing Anchors book on pg 70. He uses it for a cam but the cam has a sling, not a skinny wire that a nut has. Thanks for the advice in advance! I wouldn't like the idea of looping it through the basket. I don't have any pull test data, though. If I really were so short of gear that I couldn't use a carabiner to link it to the nut, I would definitely double it up. If your alternative is no pro, it's worth a shot.
Take another nut and use the cable to extend the protection nut.
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