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bumblesbounce
Jan 6, 2003, 3:12 AM
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What do you people think about leading in an idoor gym? I have not gotten to do it but I'm thinking about doing it soon. Anybody know a good indoor gym to learn how to lead and lead climb in the New England Area? Thanks!
Fawn
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coldclimb
Jan 6, 2003, 3:43 AM
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It's a fun, easy, and relatively safe way to go. It's also funner than top roping in the winter for me, though I dunno why.
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carnaged
Jan 6, 2003, 4:10 AM
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I learned to lead in the gym, then took the skills outside, but I have to say, it is fun leading inside! It's safe, and if you're climbing horizontally, TAKE A FALL!! Tis quite fun!
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rideandclimbkid
Jan 6, 2003, 4:21 AM
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yeah, i havnt gotten to leading yet either. was your first time leading in a gym scary? and what DOES it feel liek to fall a good 8 feet? haha other than ouch
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coldclimb
Jan 6, 2003, 4:29 AM
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heh, my first lead was outdoors. I was very comfortable with it, as I had as much preperation as I could possibly have, though my belayer should have had more experience.
Falling is like that ejection seat ride: the anticipation is freaky, but when you go, it's loads of fun.
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macattack22
Jan 6, 2003, 4:52 AM
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My first time leading in the gym I tried a 5.10a. I normally climb 5.9s and had only ever lead twice outdoors, once a 5.6 and once a 5.9, both bolted friction routes. My friends challenged me to this 5.10a with two curvy overhangs, where a good half of it was crawling horizontal. All the holds were bombers. I didn't think I could do it, but I got about 3 holds from the top, and impressed the hell out of my partner, who has been climbing three times as long as me and only got halfway up the same route. It felt pretty good. Made me want to do more indoor leading.
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flying_dutchman
Jan 6, 2003, 5:22 AM
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i learned how to lead indoors. I think its the best way to learn how to fall cause of the controled environment. Since starting to lead trad, however, i havent been back to the gym. Its too much of a hassel cause no two gyms except the same indoor leadclimbing certificate right cause of liability and whatnot.
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climbergirl15
Jan 6, 2003, 2:58 PM
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I haven't lead yet. I just top rope at the gym. At the gym I go to you have to take a lead climbing class and pass the test or if you already know how to use the leading wall.
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climbergirl15
Jan 6, 2003, 2:59 PM
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I haven't lead yet. I just top rope at the gym. At the gym I go to you have to take a lead climbing class and pass the test or if you already know how to use the leading wall.
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sroehlk
Jan 6, 2003, 3:37 PM
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I really enjoy leading indoors. At the gym I go to you have to pass a test before they allow you to lead climb. It was a personal goal I finally got up the nerve to achieve and I’m so happy I did! I can’t wait until it warms up and I can take what I’ve learned leading indoors to the outdoors.
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robbovius
Jan 6, 2003, 3:50 PM
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for A decent lead climbing Gym in southern New England, try the Rhode Island Rock Gym...I went there last week for the first time, and it's a reall kewl facility...I only top roped there, but it's got some kewl looking lead routes, and the quickdaws are already bolted to the wall.
30 foot high walls, covered in that archtectural stone facing, rather than just painted wood. shoes can actually get some grip
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bumblesbounce
Jan 7, 2003, 2:14 AM
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Sadly, I won't be climbing till spring. Anyways... faling 8 feet sounds fun. But I thought that bolts were about 5 feet apart, am I right?
Fawn
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knuckles
Jan 13, 2003, 5:00 AM
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Indoor leading is a great way to learn... just find someone at the gym with experience and have them show you how not to backclip...
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bumblesbounce
Jan 15, 2003, 12:18 AM
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Eat monkies, I want to climb. And I want to learn to lead, I think GRG has lessons but my knee is extermly evil.
- Fawn
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ebrmusic
Jan 29, 2003, 6:01 PM
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My first lead was outdoors and because there were no top-rope accessable runs. Not really an ideal situation. I wish i would have had a couple of runs in the gym to get me ready. If you are even thinking about it go for it. Its way too much fun to pass up.
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vegastradguy
Jan 29, 2003, 6:09 PM
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we have a lead cave in my gym where I learned to lead. It's nice because its way overhung so the falls are clean.
these days we climb up the middle of the cave, clip the last two draws in the center, then climb out on the horiontal to the anchors and let go. nothing like a 15 foot swing to get the blood flowing!
woohoo!!!
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crazyfingers
Jan 29, 2003, 6:12 PM
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A good way to get used to leading is to mock lead in the gym. Tie into climb on top rope, but make sure the route can also be lead. In addtion to the top rope tie into a lead rope on the ground. Your partner will belay you via the top rope but as you climb you can practice cliping into the lead route. Mock leading is a great way to learn leading skills and build the stamina necessary for leading.
CF
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ggraham
Jan 29, 2003, 11:39 PM
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I began climbing as a "GYM" climber. It took me so long to get the courage to lead....
What I found however (and those of you who lead will say 'OF COURSE') is that leading is a whole new game. Top roping makes you think you are a better climber than you really are.
Stopping, getting the right balance and making the clip change the dynamics of a climb significantly. You have to hang from one arm to make clip. Best make sure you've got a good grip.
Having said that. Leading is a buzz. Really the only way to climb, unless you are really tired from a session. Then a top rope is the answer.
- Gareth
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shortfatoldguy
Jan 30, 2003, 12:15 AM
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It's a great way to beat the boredom of constant indoor climbing and get used to being above the rope. And you can take some fun falls. Do what I did recently: get to the last clip really pumped, try to clip it above your head, pull up a bunch of slack, and butter off. Great fun. Stay on the steep routes, though, if you're going to push yourself; the vertical routes can turn an ankle pretty easily (all those jugs sticking out).
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multisport
Feb 16, 2003, 2:49 PM
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Bumblebounce-
I know that BRG just had an indoor lead class on the 9th of February. I was just wondering if you ended up taking it and if so how was it?
T@D
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jughead
Feb 16, 2003, 5:15 PM
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I learned to lead in a gym 6 months ago and never fell, until now...
belayer: are you sure the you can get that hold?
me: yea it looks like a good jug I'm gonna have to deadpoint it, o.k.?
belayer: yea sure
me: nnngghhh!!
belayer: alright?
me: $#!&, sloper
belayer: eh?
me: eep. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!
oooooo! that was fun!!!
I fell 5 metres!! (three m from the last clip 1 of slack and another one from the rope, knot, slippage etc.)
I highly recommend it!!
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rokshoxbkr19
Feb 16, 2003, 6:45 PM
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Indoor leading isn't much like leading outdoors. It helps with teaching some focus, but other than that it isn't good for much. The need to concentrate like on real rock isn't there and the challenge isn't there. I would say unless you are doing a roof and pumping hard there is almost no benefit. If you haven't done it yet though it can help teach the basics so you aren't clueless outside. Have fun learning to lead. Where are you in New England???
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--natural_mystic--
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Mar 24, 2003, 10:52 PM
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leading inside definatlly boosts ur moral for outdoor leading .. plus u can work on cliping ..dont wanna be messing around on a 5.13 8)
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lalamur
Mar 26, 2003, 9:58 PM
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try petra cliffs climbing center in burlington VT, if you're anywhere near there.
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