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ilhappy
Oct 12, 2011, 5:15 PM
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Would really appreciate all ur kindness and help!
current i have dilemma for which set of basic gear should i get.
1) Ptezl corax harness + ptezl VERSO belay device + petzl ATTAC HE 3D carabiner + BANDI chalkbag +
25g power crunch chalk
2)BD momentum AL + BD ATC XP + Mini Pearabiner screwgate carabiner + Petzl Koda Chalk Bag + Metolius Super Chalk 2.5 oz.
3) BD momentum SA + ATC belay/rappel device +
BD locking carabiner +BD chalk bag + BD White Gold chalk
PRICE IS NOT OF A ISSUE... i not sure bout the 3 different harness weight, but i think corax > both momentum. I've tried momentum AL, it's comfortable.. not sure bout the other 2.
Which package is worth? Assuming im a beginner who see myself going for lead and maybe sport climb in the future!
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atpclimbing
Oct 12, 2011, 5:19 PM
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Go for the Momentum AL. Comfy, light enough, takes abuse well, and is suitable for just about any kind of climbing.
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kachoong
Oct 12, 2011, 5:32 PM
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I'd also go option 2 if I were you. You also get the ATC-XP and Pearbiner which is a decent belay combo. I think the only difference between the AL and SA is the SA has a speed buckle.
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j_ung
Oct 12, 2011, 6:32 PM
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ilhappy wrote: Would really appreciate all ur kindness and help! current i have dilemma for which set of basic gear should i get. 1) Ptezl corax harness + ptezl VERSO belay device + petzl ATTAC HE 3D carabiner + BANDI chalkbag + 25g power crunch chalk 2)BD momentum AL + BD ATC XP + Mini Pearabiner screwgate carabiner + Petzl Koda Chalk Bag + Metolius Super Chalk 2.5 oz. 3) BD momentum SA + ATC belay/rappel device + BD locking carabiner +BD chalk bag + BD White Gold chalk PRICE IS NOT OF A ISSUE... i not sure bout the 3 different harness weight, but i think corax > both momentum. I've tried momentum AL, it's comfortable.. not sure bout the other 2. Which package is worth? Assuming im a beginner who see myself going for lead and maybe sport climb in the future!
That's an easy one. Fit is the most important variable in your equation. If you've only tried the AL, it fits and you can't try the other two before deciding, then you should definitely go with that one. The other two are a roll of the dice.
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markcarlson
Oct 12, 2011, 8:02 PM
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I agree with j_ung, don't buy a harness unless you've tried it out and know it is comfortable.
The Momentum AL has two limitations that you may not have thought of, but probably are not an issue to you anyway:
1. It is bulky in your pack compared to many other harnesses. This is mainly because it is cheap and comfortable (uses more rigid padding and gear loops.)
2. Not that you are necessarily interested, but the Momentum AL will not rack ice screws easily. Even then, it's still fine for trying out ice climbing if that is something you end up wanting to do.
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rtwilli4
Oct 12, 2011, 8:39 PM
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Excellent advice already. Don't buy a harness until you've tried it on.
Might I add that the Petzl Attache 3D is poorly designed for use as a standard belay biner. It gets grooved really fast and the I beam construction mean that the grooves are quite sharp. I retired mine to my Gri Gri w/i about a week. The old round one was/is much better.
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ilhappy
Oct 13, 2011, 3:53 PM
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oh okay, cause i've seen many good reviews on corax.
even the outdoorgearlab gives corax a higher rating.
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Locking-Carabiner-Reviews
review that petzl attache 3d carabiner is their 1st choice.
that's why im deciding if i should get corax or momentum.. hmm...
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bearbreeder
Oct 13, 2011, 4:16 PM
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reviews dont mean shiet if the harness does not fit you comfortably
try it on then decide
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jbone
Oct 13, 2011, 4:29 PM
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Not sure if the BD Momentum is made in America but I know for sure Petzl isn't American.
If Momentum is made in U.S.A. and you support American jobs within the climbing industry then the choice is "hopefully" obvious.
Seriously folks, be responsible with your purchases and stop sending your money across the ocean, show you care with your wallet.
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rtwilli4
Oct 13, 2011, 4:30 PM
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ilhappy wrote: oh okay, cause i've seen many good reviews on corax. even the outdoorgearlab gives corax a higher rating. http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Locking-Carabiner-Reviews review that petzl attache 3d carabiner is their 1st choice. that's why im deciding if i should get corax or momentum.. hmm...
Most people writing reviews on sites like that don't use the product enough the make an informed decision. Just sayin...
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herites
Oct 13, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2011
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"Hopefully" your household doesn't have anything that is made in China, or anywhere else, only in the US, right?
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jbone
Oct 13, 2011, 7:03 PM
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I'm just as guilty as buying Chinese as the next guy but for the last 3 years I can say that I have chosen American products over international whenever I could afford it, especially when it comes to recreational pursuits.
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2011, 7:19 PM
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jbone wrote: Not sure if the BD Momentum is made in America but I know for sure Petzl isn't American. If Momentum is made in U.S.A. and you support American jobs within the climbing industry then the choice is "hopefully" obvious. Seriously folks, be responsible with your purchases and stop sending your money across the ocean, show you care with your wallet.
BD makes everything, but their hot forged stuff in China.
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shockabuku
Oct 13, 2011, 7:33 PM
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johnwesely wrote: jbone wrote: Not sure if the BD Momentum is made in America but I know for sure Petzl isn't American. If Momentum is made in U.S.A. and you support American jobs within the climbing industry then the choice is "hopefully" obvious. Seriously folks, be responsible with your purchases and stop sending your money across the ocean, show you care with your wallet. BD makes everything, but their hot forged stuff in China.
I think you need another comma in there to make that sentence sensible.
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2011, 7:46 PM
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shockabuku wrote: johnwesely wrote: jbone wrote: Not sure if the BD Momentum is made in America but I know for sure Petzl isn't American. If Momentum is made in U.S.A. and you support American jobs within the climbing industry then the choice is "hopefully" obvious. Seriously folks, be responsible with your purchases and stop sending your money across the ocean, show you care with your wallet. BD makes everything, but their hot forged stuff in China. I think you need another comma in there to make that sentence sensible.
BD, makes everything, but their hot, forged stuff-in China.
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atpclimbing
Oct 13, 2011, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2011
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jbone wrote: Not sure if the BD Momentum is made in America but I know for sure Petzl isn't American. If Momentum is made in U.S.A. and you support American jobs within the climbing industry then the choice is "hopefully" obvious. Seriously folks, be responsible with your purchases and stop sending your money across the ocean, show you care with your wallet.
While true it would be preferable to purchase American made products from an American owned/based company, at least with BD most of your money returns to the states. If American made is your first concern, you have to go with Misty Mountain. Top notch, and American made!
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shimanilami
Oct 13, 2011, 10:19 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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IMO, the Petzl Corax is the nicest harness of the three.
And for what it's worth, a package deal that gives you a discount on stuff you don't really want is not a good deal at all. You might pay more, but you'd be better off buying gear you actually want separately. You'll eventually end up at this point anyway, so you might as well cut to the chase ...
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CurlyFries
Oct 14, 2011, 1:59 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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Option 2 or 3.
I own both the momentum SA and AL (AL is too big for me now).
Both are great for my needs and have gear loops for lead. IMO, you have tried the AL and it fits good so go with it. If you want to consider the other two, hang in them for a bit in the store if that's an option. You probably wont notice a difference between ATC and ATC XP (I don't).
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damienclimber
Oct 15, 2011, 1:02 AM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
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bearbreeder wrote: reviews dont mean shiet if the harness does not fit you comfortably try it on then decide
Gee, I said that and was mac-attacked!
btw-your choice of a package might depend on the size of your own package 
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