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amyas
Nov 6, 2011, 6:47 PM
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Anyone know of a thread on rc.com or another resource that has some good tips for protecting sharp ridges?
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Colinhoglund
Nov 6, 2011, 9:54 PM
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Half ropes???? Two ropes are better than one!
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amyas
Nov 6, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Are there 1/3 ropes available? I want to be extra careful.
But seriously, anything special, or just normal rock/snow pro where ever i can find it?
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Colinhoglund
Nov 7, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Well there are 7.8mm halfropes, and 9.1(Joker) and even 9.4mm half ropes (sterling Nano). For extra safety reserves just get a fatter set of ropes. And whenever possible, place pro well so that you wont do a big swinging fall which is the most likely way to cut a rope. Half ropes help this since when you alternate placements the ropes wont hit the same area in a fall.
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eric_k
Nov 7, 2011, 9:03 AM
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Never tried it but the best two idea I have heard for sharp snowy ridges were to shorten the rope to like 6 feet then have one climber on either side of the ridge. The other is to use double or half ropes and drop one rope on either side of the ridge as you walk across.
Eric
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sungam
Nov 8, 2011, 1:24 AM
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I think that the best way to protect alpine ridges is likely to only wear crampons when you really need to, and place your feet and tools carefully. Aside from putting corks on the end of your pointies, there isn't much more you can do to protect the poor fella.
Good on you for caring about the ridges, though. They get walked all over these days.
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colatownkid
Nov 8, 2011, 4:20 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2007
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A few thoughts:
1) Your best defense against falling is your ability to climb. Make it a point not to fall in these situations. (Not trying to be a smartass, just something that seems to get commonly overlooked.)
2) Walk together roped up on a shortened rope. If one climber falls, the other must literally throw themselves off the other side. Alternately, traverse simultaneously on either side of the ridge, as noted above (if possible). Finally, if neither of those looks like fun, simul-solo.
3) Run the rope around/between rock horns to create intermediate terrain protection. Rock pro and snow pro may be difficult to find. (see http://books.google.com/...ge&q&f=false. Incidentally, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is a great book and worth a look.)
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amyas
Nov 8, 2011, 3:42 PM
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Tried the cork thing... ran out after draining my last bottle of fin du monde, and not even half my points were corked, I'm going to have to make multiple trips and stash bottles at a high camp before my next attempt I guess.
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amyas
Nov 8, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Thanks a lot Cola, looks like something I can use, I'll see if i can track that book down as well.
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