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Gmburns2000
Nov 6, 2011, 12:47 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: marc801 wrote: csproul wrote: And I'm sure, with all your guiding experience, you are well qualified to tell the OP what he'd be getting into? You know damn well that yours was not a caring post meant to "inform" the OP about the pluses and minuses of guiding. You simply wanted to dump on guiding as a profession. There is a pretty good possibility that some guides might even enjoy teaching new climbers while climbing the same 200ft. 5.6 over 1000 times! Actually, I did enjoy that particular route every time I did it with newbies, back in the day. I had another friend who tried guiding and despised it after a year because of the repetition. Some take well to that, and some do not. What route? If it's in the 'Gunks then I'm betting it's the first pitch of Arrow. 200 ft 5.6? Uhhh, try High E. 
yeah, you're right on the height, but honestly, I don't remember too many guides on High E. That's why I didn't mention it.
Of course, I've only done it a few times myself, so maybe there are more guides there than I realize.
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guangzhou
Nov 6, 2011, 4:20 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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jmeizis wrote: That being said. If you really want to be a guide then get your SPI and start working for a guide service that requires that as a minimum. Most good, legitimate guide services will require this. Someone said that an AMGA cert doesn't make you a guide and I would agree with the caveat that it sure helps.
No really. If you really want to guide, drive the four hours and meet the guide service your mentioned above. Let them know you want to volunteer from time to time and that you are four hours away. You never know.
In reply to: There is a big difference between most AMGA guides (certified or in the process) and not. Most people will have a good time with an uncertified guide and some are very skilled but with few exceptions people will have a much higher quality experience with a certified guide.
Absolute BS here. Couldn't be further from the truth. Actually, of the best guides in America have no ties what soever to AMGA.
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jmeizis
Nov 6, 2011, 3:30 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
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Well opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I've got lots of examples one way and few the other.
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guangzhou
Nov 7, 2011, 12:49 AM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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jmeizis wrote: Well opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I've got lots of examples one way and few the other.
Guess we agree on something.
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jamatt
Nov 7, 2011, 5:50 AM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
Posts: 160
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It's a great idea for both personal and professional reasons to keep a climbing journal in which you note routes, grades, partners, successes, and areas of growth.
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ACJ
Nov 8, 2011, 6:00 PM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Oct 25, 2008
Posts: 162
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I think you need to look into this a little more on your own...
First off, the AMGA website has most of your answers covered. Scholarships are available, plus market yourself to local businesses to find sponsors who will foot the bill in exchange for marketing photos and staff training.
It's the honor code on proving the number of ascents. It's not 50 grade III... it's guiding 20 grade III and doing 10 grade IV 5 of which are between your RIC and RGC. So you need to look at the Rock Instructor Course first, before the guide, because that's a prereq. You also need to be a comfortable 5.10+ onsight climber at the time of the course. Your headed there, but also remember that's not single pitch, that's multi-pitch.
I'm a single pitch instructor and signed up for the rock instructor. The biggest thing I would recommend is take the SPI course and exam first.
I know a 5.13 trad climber who took the rock instructor, then the rock guide course, but needed a cert in order to work. They chose to simply tick off the exam for the SPI but failed it 3 times before they passed it... So just because you can climb hard or a lot doesn't mean that you have guide/anchor building skills.
It's good that you know the limitations of guiding from a financial standpoint. The best guides I know make $25k on a good year. It's more than enough money for the average climber, but is taxing. Things I would keep in mind:
1. think about a bachelors degree if you don't have it already.
2. Diversify and pick up a few other skills, backpacking, paddling, whatever else.
3. Learn who you are. I was climbing over 200 days a year for a while. Then I tore the muscles in my back, dislocated a shoulder, and shredded 8 tendon sheaths in the same year! Never thought I would be able to climb again and that can really blow your mind when your 25 if you don't have any idea as to what your life means without climbing.
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guangzhou
Nov 9, 2011, 12:48 AM
Post #33 of 35
(1949 views)
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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ACJ wrote: I think you need to look into this a little more on your own... First off, the AMGA website has most of your answers covered. Scholarships are available, plus market yourself to local businesses to find sponsors who will foot the bill in exchange for marketing photos and staff training. It's the honor code on proving the number of ascents. It's not 50 grade III... it's guiding 20 grade III and doing 10 grade IV 5 of which are between your RIC and RGC. So you need to look at the Rock Instructor Course first, before the guide, because that's a prereq. You also need to be a comfortable 5.10+ onsight climber at the time of the course. Your headed there, but also remember that's not single pitch, that's multi-pitch. I'm a single pitch instructor and signed up for the rock instructor. The biggest thing I would recommend is take the SPI course and exam first. I know a 5.13 trad climber who took the rock instructor, then the rock guide course, but needed a cert in order to work. They chose to simply tick off the exam for the SPI but failed it 3 times before they passed it... So just because you can climb hard or a lot doesn't mean that you have guide/anchor building skills. It's good that you know the limitations of guiding from a financial standpoint. The best guides I know make $25k on a good year. It's more than enough money for the average climber, but is taxing. Things I would keep in mind: 1. think about a bachelors degree if you don't have it already. 2. Diversify and pick up a few other skills, backpacking, paddling, whatever else. 3. Learn who you are. I was climbing over 200 days a year for a while. Then I tore the muscles in my back, dislocated a shoulder, and shredded 8 tendon sheaths in the same year! Never thought I would be able to climb again and that can really blow your mind when your 25 if you don't have any idea as to what your life means without climbing.
Some good info there for sure. Again, you don't need a AMGA guide certification to guide. Even the big Guide Services in Devil's Tower, Yosemite, and Grand Teton don't require it. A good guide service will require internal training regardless of what cert you come with.
Really want to guide. Find the local guide service and help with those top-rope group days and first time on the rock.
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socalclimber
Nov 9, 2011, 3:46 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
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jmeizis wrote: Well opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I've got lots of examples one way and few the other.
This has nothing to do with opinions.
You haven't the vaguest clue as to what you are talking about.
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guangzhou
Nov 9, 2011, 4:41 AM
Post #35 of 35
(1915 views)
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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socalclimber wrote: jmeizis wrote: Well opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I've got lots of examples one way and few the other. This has nothing to do with opinions. You haven't the vaguest clue as to what you are talking about.
Agreed Socal
Check your PM too
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