|
Rmsyll2
Nov 13, 2011, 6:40 AM
Post #1 of 5
(1000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2010
Posts: 266
|
A man had found an usused area of rock to train his son in rappelling, as in att'd photo. The boy was expected to climb back up using a Grigri for belay. What he had been shown to do was toss the rope that would be below him over a shoulder. The man said that was how he did it, pulling slack as he went up and keeping the trailing rope over a shoulder.
Where they were, the boy was able to find a way to scramble around to not really climb. With no way to weight the rope end to feed slack, his way might be good. Any mountaineer types do that over-the-shoulder style for an ascender belay?
.
|
|
Attachments:
|
NoRoute rap1c sm.jpg
(94.5 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
barleywino
Nov 13, 2011, 12:31 PM
Post #2 of 5
(969 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2011
Posts: 50
|
seems dangerous since the grigri can unlock if unweighted. it might lock back up if one falls suddenly, but would likely allow some slack through in the process, especially if the fall is not sudden enough for the rope to immediately engage the cam
|
|
|
|
|
socalclimber
Nov 13, 2011, 3:44 PM
Post #3 of 5
(944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
|
The rope over the shoulder is less than optimal. Best bet is to let it just hang, and tie the occasional backup knot.
I've used grigri's to single fixed rope solo for years. Works fine if you know what you are doing. Probably not a good solution based on this scenario.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 14, 2011, 1:07 AM
Post #4 of 5
(883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Rmsyll2 wrote: A man had found an usused area of rock to train his son in rappelling, as in att'd photo. The boy was expected to climb back up using a Grigri for belay. What he had been shown to do was toss the rope that would be below him over a shoulder. The man said that was how he did it, pulling slack as he went up and keeping the trailing rope over a shoulder. Where they were, the boy was able to find a way to scramble around to not really climb. With no way to weight the rope end to feed slack, his way might be good. Any mountaineer types do that over-the-shoulder style for an ascender belay? .
Where are you finding all these people?
As others have said, rope over the shoulder is not a good idea. And the whole setting sounds unsafe.
Gri-gri itself is fine for this situation, but with back-up knots in the rope at some intervals. I just spent couple hours today doing exactly that (climb up and self-belay with a gri-gri while setting routes in a gym).
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Nov 14, 2011, 2:31 PM
Post #5 of 5
(823 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
lena_chita wrote: Rmsyll2 wrote: A man had found an usused area of rock to train his son in rappelling, as in att'd photo. The boy was expected to climb back up using a Grigri for belay. What he had been shown to do was toss the rope that would be below him over a shoulder. The man said that was how he did it, pulling slack as he went up and keeping the trailing rope over a shoulder. Where they were, the boy was able to find a way to scramble around to not really climb. With no way to weight the rope end to feed slack, his way might be good. Any mountaineer types do that over-the-shoulder style for an ascender belay? . Where are you finding all these people? As others have said, rope over the shoulder is not a good idea. And the whole setting sounds unsafe. ....
|
|
|
|
|
|
