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jt512
Nov 11, 2011, 12:18 AM
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snoboy wrote: Learn something new everday! ;) ;) donwanadi wrote: JimTitt wrote: What is a static drop test? Jim Dropping a weight onto a low stretch cord or sling resulting in shock load.
Learn not to top-post.
Jay
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socalclimber
Nov 11, 2011, 1:56 AM
Post #52 of 91
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My god, all this bullshit over a simple two bolt top rope anchor.
No wonder people are decking all the time.
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JimTitt
Nov 11, 2011, 7:40 AM
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donwanadi wrote: JimTitt wrote: What is a static drop test? Jim Dropping a weight onto a low stretch cord or sling resulting in shock load.
Hmmm.
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csproul
Nov 11, 2011, 2:42 PM
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donwanadi wrote: JimTitt wrote: What is a static drop test? Jim Dropping a weight onto a low stretch cord or sling resulting in shock load.
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JohnCook
Nov 11, 2011, 8:32 PM
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+1
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JimTitt
Nov 11, 2011, 8:51 PM
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Good lord no!
It means I´m still thinking over a number of possibilities. One or more which might include that some things are not as clearly defined as we would wish or believe or that our thinking about these definitions may not be as clear as we presumed.
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socalclimber
Nov 13, 2011, 3:48 PM
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What I find perplexing is why this thread hasn't been moved by one of the moderators to the beginners forum where it belongs.
It's two bolts. Either use a cordelette with a single power point or use two quick draws.
All this discussion over nothing.
Keep it simple folks.
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jt512
Nov 13, 2011, 5:32 PM
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socalclimber wrote: What I find perplexing is why this thread hasn't been moved by one of the moderators to the beginners forum where it belongs. It's two bolts. Either use a cordelette with a single power point or use two quick draws.
Yes, this is a beginner question, and thus the thread belongs in the Beginners forum.
If the anchor bolts are on the face of the route, then all the anchor need consist of is two draws, one on each bolt, with the bottom biners opposed, preferably facing away from each other, as pictured on page 1 of the thread. Using anything other than two non-locking draws for this setup is the mark of a beginner or a career gumby.
If the anchor bolts are on the top surface of the formation, then the anchor must be extended over the lip. A cordellete, or a long runner on each bolt, is usually sufficient for this setup.
Jay
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socalclimber
Nov 13, 2011, 8:53 PM
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That's pretty much all that needs to be said. If I'm using the two draw method and we're going to on the anchor for a while top roping, I just put a locker on one of the draws.
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bearbreeder
Nov 13, 2011, 9:21 PM
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i know plenty of people who use things other than 2 non-locking draws for an anchor on bolts ... and i wouldnt call quite a few of em gumbies 
i personally use 2 draws, or the aforementioned clove hitched sling ...
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marc801
Nov 13, 2011, 10:51 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: i know plenty of people who use things other than 2 non-locking draws for an anchor on bolts ... and i wouldnt call quite a few of em gumbies i personally use 2 draws, or the aforementioned clove hitched sling ...
(This post was edited by marc801 on Nov 13, 2011, 10:57 PM)
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socalclimber
Nov 14, 2011, 12:17 AM
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marc801 wrote: bearbreeder wrote: i know plenty of people who use things other than 2 non-locking draws for an anchor on bolts ... and i wouldnt call quite a few of em gumbies i personally use 2 draws, or the aforementioned clove hitched sling ... The issue here isn't the nitpicking about exactly what to use, but that the OP is asking about a needlessly complex set-up for this application, believing that it is appreciably safer. Fer chrissakes, he's trying to mitigate the consequences of an anchor bolt failure on a top rope fall, the likelihood of which is similar to that of aliens beaming down and giving him move-by-move beta. Alternatively, if the anchor bolts where he climbs are in that poor shape, he has more basic learning issues to deal with than figuring out a bumblie-dork-noob-o-lette.
Spot on.
The bigger problem here is all the "experts" who insist on deluding this poor guy with needless rhetoric which only serves to display their own complete incompetence.
All that needed to happen here was to set him on course and not encourage him further with worthless analyses over a simple problem.
Jay summed it up nicely.
I'll say it again.
Keep it simple.
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bearbreeder
Nov 14, 2011, 12:45 AM
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i might have missed something ... but i think there were quite a few posts telling him that basically any decent anchor will work on bolts
it was the OP i believe who then started spewing stuff about quads, etc ...
people use what they want .. as long as it aint "unsafe" ... it aint a real issue unless its on RC
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socalclimber
Nov 14, 2011, 1:07 AM
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Yes, in the beginning (first page) there were. Then we hit the second page....
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shockabuku
Nov 14, 2011, 2:39 AM
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socalclimber wrote: Yes, in the beginning (first page) there were. Then we hit the second page....
Yep. It's also a entertainment forum with no requirement to limit conversation to "just the facts".
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socalclimber
Nov 14, 2011, 3:01 AM
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Considering the content of this site, the audience, and the ramifications of bad information, I find that a disturbing attitude.
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shockabuku
Nov 14, 2011, 1:45 PM
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socalclimber wrote: Considering the content of this site, the audience, and the ramifications of bad information, I find that a disturbing attitude.
Okay. I'm glad the site doesn't prevent you from sharing your thoughts about that like it doesn't prevent the exchange of the previous posts in this thread. Who would be here if we couldn't post a lot of irrelevant BS?
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jt512
Nov 14, 2011, 8:35 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Who would be here if we couldn't post a lot of irrelevant BS?
Most of the climbers I know IRL avoid this website because of all the irrelevant BS.
Jay
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bearbreeder
Nov 14, 2011, 10:59 PM
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people, especially beginners ... should not come on RC seeking "helpful" information IMO
while there is the occasional gem in the manure pile ... a lot of people here are more interested in pushing their viewpoint onto you regardless of what it means for you ...
i suspect the same holds true for many forums for other activities
for information where "safety" is a paramount concern, a real live person with experience is much better, or even a book .... of at the very least some articles from recognized climbing sites (climbing.com, BMC, AAI, etc ...)
the intrawebs is a place where people dont care about whats right or wrong ... just whether they can win an argument and have hordes of mindless gumbies doing their bidding 
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shockabuku
Nov 15, 2011, 3:42 AM
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jt512 wrote: shockabuku wrote: Who would be here if we couldn't post a lot of irrelevant BS? Most of the climbers I know IRL avoid this website because of all the irrelevant BS. Jay
I'm not sure how to respond to that or even what to make of it. It's nearly perfect.
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Rmsyll2
Nov 22, 2011, 5:23 AM
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Jim Titt said "Just clip the bolts with anything, redundancy is desirable."
'chilli' said "you really don't need anything more than a couple of draws when setting up from the top"
See attached photo of TR rigging by a woman who considers herself quite experienced and capable.
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PlaceBet anchors14 sm.jpg
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jt512
Nov 22, 2011, 6:14 AM
Post #72 of 91
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Rmsyll2 wrote: Jim Titt said "Just clip the bolts with anything, redundancy is desirable." 'chilli' said "you really don't need anything more than a couple of draws when setting up from the top" See attached photo of TR rigging by a woman who considers herself quite experienced and capable.
First of all, the two draws thing assumes that the bolts are on the face of the route, where they're supposed to be. As I said up-thread, if the bolts are on the top surface of the wall, then slings (or their equivalent) should be used to extend the anchor over the edge. That said, though the pictured setup is not ideal, it looks like something I'd TR off of.
Jay
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marc801
Nov 22, 2011, 6:31 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote: Jim Titt said "Just clip the bolts with anything, redundancy is desirable." 'chilli' said "you really don't need anything more than a couple of draws when setting up from the top" See attached photo of TR rigging by a woman who considers herself quite experienced and capable. .
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qwert
Nov 22, 2011, 7:40 AM
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qwert said: "Rmsyll2, learn to use the quote function!"
That looks perfectly fine, apart from three things:
-Why are the spare biners in the bolts? Doesnt hurt "safety" at all, but i'd rather put them on my harness, in case i need them.
- The bolts seem kinda rusty. since they are placed "top down" i wouldnt be surprised if they are rusted to hell and back
- The whole anchor seems to be situated on a detached tower. Thats something i personally dont reall like…
(- (4) Why bolt it? Just throw a sling around the tower, and you are good to go!)
qwert
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shockabuku
Nov 22, 2011, 3:00 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote: Jim Titt said "Just clip the bolts with anything, redundancy is desirable." 'chilli' said "you really don't need anything more than a couple of draws when setting up from the top" See attached photo of TR rigging by a woman who considers herself quite experienced and capable. .
Having the middle set of biners loaded over an edge is an obvious mistake and easily correctable using a longer sling and taking out that intermediate set of biners.
The more interesting question for me is wtf are the extra biners in the bolt hangers for?
But yeah, not ideal, but what was your point? Obviously this very experienced woman has experienced some less than ideal arrangements.
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