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First Ascent or not?
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bowleggedgoat


Nov 15, 2011, 9:41 PM
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First Ascent or not?
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How does one go about finding if they made a first ascent? I just climbed a sweet ow in Jtree and can't find it online or in the guidebook. Do I contact someone to find out? What do I do?


rtwilli4


Nov 15, 2011, 9:46 PM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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There is no official database of climbs in most parts of the world. Not for cragging areas anyway. You just have to ask locals out at the crag or post a picture on this site or SuperTopo. My guess is that if it's in JTree then it has been climbed.


rangerrob


Nov 15, 2011, 9:47 PM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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Was it a first ascent for you? Did you follow chalk? Did you know the grade? Did you know the gear opportunities? If the answers are no, then it was a first ascent for you. That's the important part. Nice work getting off the grid! My suggestion would be to leave it off the grid for others to experience the same thing you did.


bowleggedgoat


Nov 15, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Re: [rangerrob] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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i dig, thanks man


donald949


Nov 15, 2011, 9:57 PM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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Check here, MP, and http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/
Check all the guide books, old and new.
Then, what was the climb like was there evidence of climbing broken rock, beaten path to the base, beaten down at the base, choose/grit debris in the crack or on the face?
Then, yea maybe.


bowleggedgoat


Nov 15, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Re: [donald949] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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yeah man, lots of choose, no chalk, hollow parts, no human impact to speak of footprints etc. scored some bail-out gear on the other side of the formation, but nothing hinting of a previous climb. whatever the case, it was a first ascent for me. totally sweet. I'll call it Booty Blood.


rangerrob


Nov 16, 2011, 1:39 AM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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Yaeh, there ya go Bow!


jorgegonzalez


Nov 16, 2011, 2:17 AM
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Re: [donald949] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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Check with Alan Bartlett. He will know, and probably already climbed it.


healyje


Nov 16, 2011, 2:20 AM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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Check on Supertopo, the odds of an OW being an FA there are pretty slim unless you were way out somewhere wooly.


socalclimber


Nov 16, 2011, 4:25 AM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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bowleggedgoat wrote:
How does one go about finding if they made a first ascent? I just climbed a sweet ow in Jtree and can't find it online or in the guidebook. Do I contact someone to find out? What do I do?

I can almost promise you it was not an FA. I've been living here for almost 14 years. Just outside my door step in Lost Horse my friend and I have done at least 50 FA's of very questionable stature (not all were terrible).

There is a core group of us down here who love to pursue un-trodden rock regardless of how shitty it is. The best resources to tap are Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Alan Bartlett, Steve Gerberding, Donnie Reid, Al Swanson and a handful of others. Tucker and I alone have tapped a bunch of stuff in the past 5 years or so.

Sorry, I'm not trying to steal your thunder, but FA activity down here is pretty rampant. Largely done by the locals who have done just about everything they can and are looking for new stuff.

The reason you won't find these routes in the guide books is simple. Guide books are VERY DIFFICULT AND TIME CONSUMING to produce. Guide book authors generally spend more money and time than they make by a long shot just trying to get the thing out. Randy Vogel has done an excellent job of getting guide books out that the general public wants. I have no clue if he's ever made a dime from them, but he still does a great job. Eventually the newer stuff will make it into some future guide book. But, the truth is, most people buying these books could care less about the newer routes going up around here.

Josh is just too big a place to adequately document. I promise you, head out to the Wonderland and you will find TONS of un-climbed rock that have FA potential.

These guys are all my friends, so if you'd like, PM me the info. I'll ask around. I promise if you did indeed find something new I'll make sure you get the credit you're due.

Robert


mojomonkey


Nov 16, 2011, 2:15 PM
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Re: [bowleggedgoat] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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bowleggedgoat wrote:
How does one go about finding if they made a first ascent?

Post it on Mountain Project with photos and claim the FA.


climbingtrash


Nov 16, 2011, 2:26 PM
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Re: [mojomonkey] First Ascent or not? [In reply to]
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mojomonkey wrote:
bowleggedgoat wrote:
How does one go about finding if they made a first ascent?

Post it on Mountain Project with photos and claim the FA.

That would be the most entertaining thing to do.


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