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thepony
Nov 18, 2011, 8:37 PM
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Anyone have the answer to this?
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edge
Nov 18, 2011, 9:09 PM
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thepony wrote: Anyone have the answer to this?
I am pretty sure that will work. At any rate, the two pitches are almost exactly the same length (bottom is a little longer) so just truck up to the first belay and see if the middle mark has left the ground before deciding whether or not to go on.
Personally I think the rope drag near the top would suck.
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thepony
Nov 18, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Great answer thanks! I'm taking my GF (new climber) there to catch the view at the top. I don't think she's ready for a hanging belay. Plus, we'll have our puppy tied up at the bottom, so I'd like to minimize time off the ground.
I'll bring along extra runners and perhaps skip a few bolts to reduce the drag.
Thanks again!
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2011, 11:07 PM
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thepony wrote: Anyone have the answer to this?
Why do you have a 90m rope?
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thepony
Nov 18, 2011, 11:33 PM
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Ha. I developed a bunch of sport routes in Vietnam not too long ago where I was also the owner of a gear shop and climbing outfit there in Ha Long Bay [Slo Pony Adventures - www.slopony.com]. I was planning on going for a climbing trip in Europe and I heard from some other developers that some of the best lines going up were bolted for 90 meter ropes to reduce tourist traffic. Hence the 90 meter rope. It's nice and thin though so not too heavy 
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bearbreeder
Nov 18, 2011, 11:50 PM
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be very very careful doing something like this ... i have no idea bout the route so ill leave that to people who know it
however i do know that should the second fall at the start of a climb on that length of rope with rope stretch it could be quite bad ... the rope stretch could be up to 20 feet at the start
there was an accident this year where someone pitched out the full 60-70m .. and the second fell in the first bit and broke something with rope stretch
so in short ... if you think she could fall in the first 20 or so feet ... i wouldnt
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marc801
Nov 19, 2011, 12:29 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: be very very careful doing something like this ... i have no idea bout the route so ill leave that to people who know it however i do know that should the second fall at the start of a climb on that length of rope with rope stretch it could be quite bad ... the rope stretch could be up to 20 feet at the start there was an accident this year where someone pitched out the full 60-70m .. and the second fell in the first bit and broke something with rope stretch so in short ... if you think she could fall in the first 20 or so feet ... i wouldnt
I helped carry out a woman who busted her ankle on Drunkard's Delight in the Gunks. It has a low, awkward 5.8 crux sequence about 12' off the ground. Her partner had combined the first two pitches - a little less than 60M. She hit the ground surprisingly hard on rope stretch.
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thepony
Nov 19, 2011, 1:26 AM
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Noted and good call. She climbs 5.9+/10a, so I'll have a chat with her to determine whether the stretch risk or the hanging belay is best.
Thanks again to you both for the help. I never really use forums and didn't expect this to work...so I guess I should probably pay it forward and look for some threads with questions about climbing in Vietnam.
all the best
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smallclimber
Nov 19, 2011, 2:13 AM
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It sounds like she is a competent climber (10a) though presumably never done any multi pitch? A very easy two pitch fully bolted climb is about an easy an introduction to multi pitch as you can get, so why not make it a learning opportunity So long as she knows how to belay you should be able to talk her through the middle belay, explain she doesn't take you off until she hears you yell safe or off belay, she stays anchored in until you have pulled up rope and let her know she is on. Then she doesn't even have to remove a trad anchor, just unclip and take the draws or slings.
Communication over a 90m climb is going to be hard especially as you'd have to walk back to a tree to anchor at the top (I don't think there were top bolts but it was a while ago we did it).
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rokdoc
Nov 19, 2011, 2:30 AM
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It is a stretch to call the belay in question "hanging" as there is a good ledge. The route is very low angle and rough--the rope drag will likely be bad if you try to link it. In my opinion it will be more fun and safer in two pitches.
FYI I climbed this with my now wife on our third date. Good luck!
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olderic
Nov 19, 2011, 3:02 AM
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You'll be working hard for sure by the time you get to the top what with dragging all that rope across all that rock - it is pretty low angle. But do-able. A bigger issue might be communication - I don't think you will be within sight of each other and it is a fair distance.
Interesting about the puppy. Once I was doing a mass family ascent of that route and I took my eyes off my hound and the next thing I knew she was half way up the first pitch next to my son who was leading it. She was happy - at least until she got stuck. More antics but it all ended happily.
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carabiner96
Nov 19, 2011, 5:00 AM
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thepony wrote: Great answer thanks! I'm taking my GF (new climber) there to catch the view at the top. I don't think she's ready for a hanging belay. Plus, we'll have our puppy tied up at the bottom, so I'd like to minimize time off the ground. I'll bring along extra runners and perhaps skip a few bolts to reduce the drag. Thanks again!
It's not a hanging belay. You also only clips 3 bolts, maybe two? Most folks just free solo it for he view so she should be fine. As for the puppy....
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jakedatc
Nov 19, 2011, 5:12 AM
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yea.. not hanging belay. and a perfect place to teach her how to do multipitch stuff.
also walk off to the climbers left down the trail.. rapping down is slower and not worth the hassle. especially if there are other people on the route.
Lady and the Tramp to the right of Clippity has an even nicer belay ledge and is just as nice.
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