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jacques
Nov 20, 2011, 2:30 AM
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As I am in an overtraining situation (I train, work and had injury so much the past five years that my body stop to recover and I am loosing my strenght), I have to plan my training better.
For me a trad season begin in the fall, where I do a lot of aid climbing for protection placement. In that time of the years, I begin a general training inside for the next year. In the winter, I train inside. This year, I will go to the rock gym one day per week. I also train in a regular gym to increase my resistance. In spring, I begin in february to climb outside, mostly boulder. As the weather warm, I go to sport climbing site and train for specific movement. In may, I climb long trad route that I did the year before. I generaly peak in june july where I try my new challenge on sight. Three or four route per years. In august- september, I began to recover...or I go to do an other sport or I climb long route at low level. When fall arrive, I start aid climbing again.
what look like a trad season for you?
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superchuffer
Nov 20, 2011, 2:42 PM
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for me, trad season is when I put those pesky sportos in their place on here and mp.com. I train for it from the comfort of my couch or office chair with my ever-expanding waistline. But, i have better morals and climbing ethics than those young wippersnappers, so my lack of fitness doesn't matter.
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rock_fencer
Nov 20, 2011, 4:13 PM
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trad season doesnt really end here in the Southeast. Have to chase sun in the colder months and you might get a spell of 2-3 weeks without good weather. But you can always pull plastic.
I usually hit the gym twice a week to stay sane or set routes. Though i dont do any specific training, i've been doing 200/600 pushups/situps a week to balance out some muscles.
T
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johnwesely
Nov 20, 2011, 7:32 PM
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I really think that winter is the ideal trad season in the SE. Most of the good stuff in NC bakes all day in the sun. T Wall and Tallulah feel good in the thirties. When the weather gets hot, I no longer want to haul anything more than a few quickdraws around.
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guangzhou
Nov 21, 2011, 1:23 AM
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if you have constant injury related to training for climbing and this means you're losing out on climbing, I recommend you reconsider how you train. No point i training so hard that you can do the activity you're training for.
Currently I live near the equator, so cold isn't a factor, but we do have a rain season that prevent outdoor climbing consistently. In China I had four Season, in Okinawa I had trhee, and living in the Tn, New Hampshire, and California, I had various seasons. Always manged to find a way to climb year-round. (indoor gyms don't constitute climbing for me.)
For me, I go climbing. Sometime I climb trad, sometimes I sport climb. I don't really say this is sport climbing season, this is trad climbing season, this is aid climbing season. I climb according to what the area I am at has to offer.
I spent six weeks of last summer climbing around lake Tahoe. Some crags in the area were sport crags, other were trad areas. Some even had both on the same cliff. When a cliff has both trad routes and sport climbs, I do both on the same day.
I consider myself lucky to intertwine sport and trad climbing. I never get bored.
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shockabuku
Nov 21, 2011, 2:45 AM
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Yeah, but how much are you actually climbing? Like in hours or feet per week?
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uni_jim
Nov 21, 2011, 2:46 AM
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You can place gear all year, just go climb something.
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jacques
Nov 21, 2011, 5:59 AM
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guangzhou wrote: if you have constant injury related to training for climbing and this means you're losing out on climbing, I recommend you reconsider how you train.
Overtraining is complex. In wikipedia, they explain the process a little: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overtraining Good to look a it.
I was so tired that I hardly can do my job and some days, I slept 13 hours in a row. I thought that it could be lime disease. I was under stress and training for almost five years. Two or three years ago, when I had the operation for carpal tunel, i continue and try to recover. but i never be able to do the load of exercise that I did before.
Irritability, loss of concentration and motivation is also to consiider. Climbing over my pro begin to be harder. I had a shoulder dislocation in that time. Took eight week to come back to climb. and i push again to do a big wall. this summer, my body hurt me and I realise that some thing go wrong.
Training was good, but all the other aspect of my life change and i have more stress. for example, I drove 11 hours each week end to climb. It is great, but it is hard.
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guangzhou
Nov 21, 2011, 7:44 AM
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jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: if you have constant injury related to training for climbing and this means you're losing out on climbing, I recommend you reconsider how you train. Overtraining is complex. In wikipedia, they explain the process a little: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overtraining Good to look a it. I was so tired that I hardly can do my job and some days, I slept 13 hours in a row. I thought that it could be lime disease. I was under stress and training for almost five years. Two or three years ago, when I had the operation for carpal tunel, i continue and try to recover. but i never be able to do the load of exercise that I did before. Irritability, loss of concentration and motivation is also to consiider. Climbing over my pro begin to be harder. I had a shoulder dislocation in that time. Took eight week to come back to climb. and i push again to do a big wall. this summer, my body hurt me and I realise that some thing go wrong. Training was good, but all the other aspect of my life change and i have more stress. for example, I drove 11 hours each week end to climb. It is great, but it is hard.
Thanks, wiki is always a great source of extremely reliable information to me. 
Sounds like you're full of excuses for why you were not listening to your body and decided to train when you should have been resting.
Again, if you are plagued by injuries related to over-training, you should reconsider what you're doing for training. They is no point in training for climbing if you can't climb because the training is injuring you and preventing you from going out.
If climbing is so important and your job is in the way, find a new career. Cliff are to far, move closer. workout is preventing from climbing because of injury, stop the workout.
Here is an idea, go climb some easier routes and focus on climbing instead of climbing harder. You're trying to do to much to soon.
You say you were over training, now you're saying training was good. No training that injures you is good training.
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ajkclay
Nov 21, 2011, 9:23 AM
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jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: if you have constant injury related to training for climbing and this means you're losing out on climbing, I recommend you reconsider how you train. Overtraining is complex. In wikipedia, they explain the process a little: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overtraining Good to look a it. I was so tired that I hardly can do my job and some days, I slept 13 hours in a row. I thought that it could be lime disease. I was under stress and training for almost five years. Two or three years ago, when I had the operation for carpal tunel, i continue and try to recover. but i never be able to do the load of exercise that I did before. Irritability, loss of concentration and motivation is also to consiider. Climbing over my pro begin to be harder. I had a shoulder dislocation in that time. Took eight week to come back to climb. and i push again to do a big wall. this summer, my body hurt me and I realise that some thing go wrong. Training was good, but all the other aspect of my life change and i have more stress. for example, I drove 11 hours each week end to climb. It is great, but it is hard.
Are you absolutely sure it is overtraining? Have you spoken to health and sports professionals?
To me, if you are still interested in climbing and wondering how to do it more and better you're not likely to be overtrained. A common tell-tale of overtraining includes being absolutely sick at the thought of training or your sport.
I could be wrong, clearly there's not enough information here to talk with authority but I'd make sure it wasn't glandular fever, chronic fatigue or some other health issue.
Hope you get better and on track again,
cheers
Adam
EDIT: Some how I missed a section of your post when reading it; sounds also like a consideration is not so much overtraining as under-recovering.
(This post was edited by ajkclay on Nov 21, 2011, 11:07 AM)
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shockabuku
Nov 21, 2011, 2:05 PM
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jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: if you have constant injury related to training for climbing and this means you're losing out on climbing, I recommend you reconsider how you train. Overtraining is complex. In wikipedia, they explain the process a little: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overtraining Good to look a it. I was so tired that I hardly can do my job and some days, I slept 13 hours in a row. I thought that it could be lime disease. I was under stress and training for almost five years. Two or three years ago, when I had the operation for carpal tunel, i continue and try to recover. but i never be able to do the load of exercise that I did before. Irritability, loss of concentration and motivation is also to consiider. Climbing over my pro begin to be harder. I had a shoulder dislocation in that time. Took eight week to come back to climb. and i push again to do a big wall. this summer, my body hurt me and I realise that some thing go wrong. Training was good, but all the other aspect of my life change and i have more stress. for example, I drove 11 hours each week end to climb. It is great, but it is hard.
Overtraining may be complex, but I still don't see any conclusive evidence that overtraining is your problem. It would be nice to see some actual specifics on your training such as number of feet climbed in a day and at what number grade, how many times/week, as well as to be able to compare to what number grade you can redpoint, OS, etc.
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camhead
Nov 21, 2011, 2:09 PM
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The seasons here in the East where I live dictate a lot of what "trad season" is for me. Spring tends to be the worst at the New and Red River Gorges, since so many beautiful crack lines just seep through that season. Like johnwesley said, summer also sucks for trad. The oppressive heat makes carrying gear miserable, and the rock is slippery from humidity. I try to get out West to climb in the summer. For my nearby weekend areas, it's all about Fall and even Winter down in more southern areas like NC and Chattanooga.
As for training, there shouldn't have to be any specific "trad training," assuming that your head, technique, and gear placing abilities are up to par. I just sent my hardest trad route last month, after building endurance on lots of sport climbs, and power in the bouldering gym.
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shockabuku
Nov 21, 2011, 2:23 PM
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So to answer the question:
I don't really have a trad season, as a matter of fact, until moving back to NY I hadn't climbed more than half a dozen or so trad routes for about 5 years. I go trad climbing when it seems interesting or I can't go sport climbing.
My climbing season looks - like when the weather is good enough and I have free time I go climb (outside). Additionally, I usually climb indoors year round 2-4 days a week (avg 3), and when I route climb I shoot for about 350-600 ft/day, when I boulder I spend 2-4 hours. Intensity and volume varies depending on how I feel more than anything.
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jacques
Nov 21, 2011, 4:05 PM
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ajkclay wrote: I could be wrong, clearly there's not enough information here to talk with authority but I'd make sure it wasn't glandular fever, chronic fatigue or some other health issue.
Under recovering if you want. Let me put it on that way: I had nothing no glandular fever, chronic fatigue or "other issue"
My training was very hard. I pull 9 tons in fifteen minutes with recovery times of 24 hours. For a non-train person, recovery take a week; for the means people, it take 48 to 72 hours. My body was able to take it because I train it carefully. Mechanically, I never push him. So, tendinitis was not a pproblem for a long time. what I read on the subject it is that i secrete to much cortisol. My body reaction on stress was too hight and I burn my protein to fight cortisol. As i need to rest, some one smoke around me, I am allergic to that. So I don't rest because my sleep was broken. Allergy need also a lot of protein, so I was in an under nitrition for a while. Slowly, I began to be weak...but still able to push myself. Concentration was worse, lost the pleasure of climbing some day, etc.
So, it is not just hands injury because you are trying to push to hight to fast, it is more that I trained too much and my life around me was not as good as it must be. It is about training.
I know that occasional climber don't have those problem. But If your child is at school and he like to climb, and climb even when he was supposed to study and study at night...overtraining can gave him a note of 60 in an exam. what can we do for that?
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shockabuku
Nov 21, 2011, 5:56 PM
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jacques wrote: ajkclay wrote: I could be wrong, clearly there's not enough information here to talk with authority but I'd make sure it wasn't glandular fever, chronic fatigue or some other health issue. Under recovering if you want. Let me put it on that way: I had nothing no glandular fever, chronic fatigue or "other issue" My training was very hard. I pull 9 tons in fifteen minutes with recovery times of 24 hours. For a non-train person, recovery take a week; for the means people, it take 48 to 72 hours. My body was able to take it because I train it carefully. Mechanically, I never push him. So, tendinitis was not a pproblem for a long time. what I read on the subject it is that i secrete to much cortisol. My body reaction on stress was too hight and I burn my protein to fight cortisol. As i need to rest, some one smoke around me, I am allergic to that. So I don't rest because my sleep was broken. Allergy need also a lot of protein, so I was in an under nitrition for a while. Slowly, I began to be weak...but still able to push myself. Concentration was worse, lost the pleasure of climbing some day, etc. So, it is not just hands injury because you are trying to push to hight to fast, it is more that I trained too much and my life around me was not as good as it must be. It is about training. I know that occasional climber don't have those problem. But If your child is at school and he like to climb, and climb even when he was supposed to study and study at night...overtraining can gave him a note of 60 in an exam. what can we do for that?
Good, quantifiable information. It's still meaningless, but you're getting there.
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chadnsc
Nov 21, 2011, 6:00 PM
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Trad season for me is the end of April, beginning of May until the beginning of November. The nearest sport climbing is six hours south of me so it's trad all season long. 
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chadnsc
Nov 21, 2011, 7:02 PM
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camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Trad season for me is the end of April, beginning of May until the beginning of November. The nearest sport climbing is six hours south of me so it's trad all season long. Don't all you upper-midwesterners just toprope everything anyway?
No more that all you west coasters climb over inflated grades.
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rangerrob
Nov 21, 2011, 8:02 PM
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I live in New York and the "trad" season for me begins in late September, or October and runs straight through Mid May. By then, it is usually too hot to climb anything and I hang up my rack for golf clubs and wait for fall. I don't really have another season than "trad", so I guess I just call it my climbing season. I may clip some bolts in there somewhere, but it's all climbing to me.
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jacques
Nov 22, 2011, 2:58 AM
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shockabuku wrote: Overtraining may be complex, but I still don't see any conclusive evidence that overtraining is your problem. It would be nice to see some actual specifics on your training such as number of feet climbed in a day and at what number grade, how many times/week, as well as to be able to compare to what number grade you can redpoint, OS, etc.
sorry to be late to answer. I don't measure my decrease of activity. I just see the results. My problems is mostly due at a bad environment for the last five years where I fight to train whatever happen and try to climb at my level. I can not avoid it without loosing a lot of great excursion. But, for a teenager at school, a good planning can be important.
here is a more scientific link them wikipedia: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461390600617717
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guangzhou
Nov 22, 2011, 6:02 AM
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jacques wrote: shockabuku wrote: Overtraining may be complex, but I still don't see any conclusive evidence that overtraining is your problem. It would be nice to see some actual specifics on your training such as number of feet climbed in a day and at what number grade, how many times/week, as well as to be able to compare to what number grade you can redpoint, OS, etc. sorry to be late to answer. I don't measure my decrease of activity. I just see the results. My problems is mostly due at a bad environment for the last five years where I fight to train whatever happen and try to climb at my level. I can not avoid it without loosing a lot of great excursion. But, for a teenager at school, a good planning can be important. here is a more scientific link them wikipedia: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461390600617717
I really can't understand your post.
If you're in a bad environment, get out of it. If you stay, it's your choice and stop complaining about it.
Climbing at your level, hate to say this, but your level will go up and down several times. If you can't climb because of you training, stop training and climb easier routes.
Not sure where teenagers at school fit into this thread.
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camhead
Nov 22, 2011, 12:56 PM
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jacques wrote: shockabuku wrote: Overtraining may be complex, but I still don't see any conclusive evidence that overtraining is your problem. It would be nice to see some actual specifics on your training such as number of feet climbed in a day and at what number grade, how many times/week, as well as to be able to compare to what number grade you can redpoint, OS, etc. sorry to be late to answer. I don't measure my decrease of activity. I just see the results. My problems is mostly due at a bad environment for the last five years where I fight to train whatever happen and try to climb at my level. I can not avoid it without loosing a lot of great excursion. But, for a teenager at school, a good planning can be important. here is a more scientific link them wikipedia: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17461390600617717
Jacques, it's obvious that English is not your first language; based on your username I am going to assume it is French. It is also obvious that rockclimbing.com is not the best place for training details.
Perhaps you would be better served to find a French-speaking climbing site that is perhaps more devoted to training? I don't know of any specifically, but given the caliber of so many French climbers, I'm sure that you could find a better website, in your own language.
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jacques
Nov 22, 2011, 5:03 PM
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guangzhou wrote: I really can't understand your post. If you're in a bad environment, get out of it. If you stay, it's your choice and stop complaining about it. Not sure where teenagers at school fit into this thread.
It is easy to say to change the environment, it is not always possible. Divorce is some thing that a teenager can not go out of it. If they climb too hard, it is the responsibility of those in a gym or outside to instruct them that the agressivity can be a sign of overtraining, not that the young is a bad guy.
Climbing, trad mostly, is so close to nature that one most respect what happen on there body. I overtrain and I knew it. Is it a good think to say to a teenager that if he study after two hour of climbing, his exam will not be as good as he train for half an hour and relax to be ready for his exam.
In a gym or outside, it is easy to show them that climbing tired and climbing in good shape is not the same.
Climbing 300 meters in trad...it is harder than climbing stairs for 4 hoursin a row.
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chadnsc
Nov 22, 2011, 5:31 PM
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jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: I really can't understand your post. If you're in a bad environment, get out of it. If you stay, it's your choice and stop complaining about it. Not sure where teenagers at school fit into this thread. It is easy to say to change the environment, it is not always possible. Divorce is some thing that a teenager can not go out of it. If they climb too hard, it is the responsibility of those in a gym or outside to instruct them that the agressivity can be a sign of overtraining, not that the young is a bad guy. Climbing, trad mostly, is so close to nature that one most respect what happen on there body. I overtrain and I knew it. Is it a good think to say to a teenager that if he study after two hour of climbing, his exam will not be as good as he train for half an hour and relax to be ready for his exam. In a gym or outside, it is easy to show them that climbing tired and climbing in good shape is not the same. Climbing 300 meters in trad...it is harder than climbing stairs for 4 hoursin a row.
Jacques,
With all due respect I'd listen to Camhead's advice about finding a forum that is in your native French.
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cchas
Nov 22, 2011, 8:35 PM
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Personally this year I defined my season from mid-Jan until Feb when the weather went to shist with snow day after snow day (then worked out inside) and then from March until 2 weeks ago. Now I'm taking a break for a month, actually my orthopedic doctor told me 4 to 6 weeks). Hold it, I've started to top rope again.....and will start leading in 4 to 6wks.....
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