Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
What rope system should I use?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Alpine & Ice

Premier Sponsor:

 


eric_k


Nov 30, 2011, 4:29 AM
Post #1 of 13 (5879 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 26, 2006
Posts: 190

What rope system should I use?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I need to get myself a set of ropes for ice climbing. My question is what type of system should I use? I know the difference between rope systems has been beat to death before but please bear with me.

All I have ever used for ice are my partners twin ropes, but reading over previous threads most people seem to agree that doubles have many advantages over twins. My first question is, should I get doubles over twins even though I have never used doubles before? What is the learning curve?

Second question, I currently have two ropes, one 60m 10.2 (nearly worn out), and one 70m 9.4 (nearly new). Would it be a good idea to just buy a single twin rope to use as a tag line with my existing ropes? Thanks for your opinions.

Eric


uni_jim


Nov 30, 2011, 5:29 AM
Post #2 of 13 (5861 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

My preferece on ice is half ropes; they aren't too difficult to use at all. Rope management is a life skill, get good at it and yer set for life!


Guran


Nov 30, 2011, 6:28 AM
Post #3 of 13 (5847 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220

Re: [uni_jim] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

^^^Ditto

It makes perfect sense. You wield sharp tools around your precious rope so you'll want redundancy.
You also have protection of uncertain quality so you'll want to minimize peak force on your pro, should you fall on lead (which you shouldn't).

Double ropes gives you both.

Rope handling can be a bit tricky at first (esp since you'll be wearing gloves) but you'll get used to it.

Make sure to use a belay device with guide mode when bringing up a second on doubles. It really helps. (assuming your belay is bomber, that is)


jeepnphreak


Nov 30, 2011, 8:57 AM
Post #4 of 13 (5806 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would say that it depends.

If you are leading mostly than half ropes or twin ropes are my choice. I like twins but its personal pref.

If you are setting up a top rope and running laps I perfer 1 fat single rope.


dr_feelgood


Nov 30, 2011, 10:30 AM
Post #5 of 13 (5782 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060

Re: [Guran] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Guran wrote:
^^^Ditto

It makes perfect sense. You wield sharp tools around your precious rope so you'll want redundancy.
You also have protection of uncertain quality so you'll want to minimize peak force on your pro, should you fall on lead (which you shouldn't).

Double ropes gives you both.

Rope handling can be a bit tricky at first (esp since you'll be wearing gloves) but you'll get used to it.

Make sure to use a belay device with guide mode when bringing up a second on doubles. It really helps. (assuming your belay is bomber, that is)
Get a set of doubles that are rated for use as twins and for very light use as a single.


eric_k


Dec 1, 2011, 9:21 AM
Post #6 of 13 (5691 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 26, 2006
Posts: 190

Re: [dr_feelgood] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well it sounds like doubles really will work best. The next question I have is, do you have a favorite set of double ropes? I have owned mammut, PMI, and most recently petzl, so I have not brand loyalty. To me it seems like the rope with the lowest impact force would be the best, tell me what you think.

Thanks,
Eric


eric_k


Dec 1, 2011, 9:26 AM
Post #7 of 13 (5689 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 26, 2006
Posts: 190

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Last question, what length do you like? Is 60m just right and 70m too long or vice versa?

Eric


tolman_paul


Dec 1, 2011, 10:06 AM
Post #8 of 13 (5678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Unless you're doing lots of really long easier ice routes, I doubt you'll find yourself wanting to carry and place enough screws for full 60m pitches, let alone 70m pitches. It's not like sport climbing where you're falling and abrading the end of the rope and having a 70m that you can trim to 60m. 60's should be more than enough.


dr_feelgood


Dec 2, 2011, 10:29 AM
Post #9 of 13 (5614 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

eric_k wrote:
Well it sounds like doubles really will work best. The next question I have is, do you have a favorite set of double ropes? I have owned mammut, PMI, and most recently petzl, so I have not brand loyalty. To me it seems like the rope with the lowest impact force would be the best, tell me what you think.

Thanks,
Eric
I'm happy with my Mammut 8.5s. 60 meters is plenty


rangerrob


Dec 2, 2011, 11:08 AM
Post #10 of 13 (5607 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 641

Re: [dr_feelgood] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Getting a good dry treated rope is pretty key for ice climbing. An untreated rope can turn into a useless cable in bad conditions. If you're able, dedicate your ice ropes to ice climbing only. You will get a lot more seasons out of them that way.


swaghole


Dec 8, 2011, 9:16 AM
Post #11 of 13 (5488 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

eric_k wrote:
Last question, what length do you like? Is 60m just right and 70m too long or vice versa?

Eric

I prefer 70m (for single) so when my partner puts his axe through my rope, I will end up with a 67m rope and a case of beer.


Colinhoglund


Dec 8, 2011, 2:53 PM
Post #12 of 13 (5444 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 338

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use mammut 60m, 8.5mm halfs for ice multipitch and alpine. And a mammut 9.5mm 70m for everything else. (sport, Trad and Ice cragging ie. Halfner creek)

Half ropes are nice for full length rappels, allow 2 seconds (safely compared to twins) and allow easier rope management for the leader, I barely use runners on Ice, just wire draws. My 2Ę


markcarlson


Dec 8, 2011, 9:55 PM
Post #13 of 13 (5409 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 13, 2009
Posts: 123

Re: [eric_k] What rope system should I use? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use half ropes on longer climbs, where the extra rap distance is handy. I find singles nicer when cragging.

I will probably switch to using a single and a tag line on longer climbs, but I would like to get a lighter tag line first.

Here are a few pro-single rope comments from Will Gadd's blog:

Some thoughts on single vs half ropes

"Use a single 70M rope to lead on. This cuts confusion at the belays down hugely." (speed tips)

One more recent recommendation for singles: "I donít use half ropes much except for low-angle alpine scrabbling, their impact forces are often too high to be worthwhile except for gentle falls"


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook