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Self belay
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moose_droppings


Nov 28, 2011, 5:57 PM
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Re: [binrat] Self belay [In reply to]
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binrat wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
I also prefer the Petzl Microcender.
+1

+2 on the microcender and/or the recucender.


aprice00


Nov 28, 2011, 9:22 PM
Post #27 of 36 (3125 views)
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Self belay [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
I already asked this question before about the grigri but nobody seemed to answer my real question. If you setup a top rope and just use one rope down, can you attach a Petzl ascender and move it up the rope as you climb? Also, can you do the same with the grigri when ALONE?
Ok here is my TR Solo Set-up Im still refining but I'll share so that you can see what others are doing.

I start with a Stone knot attached to the master point of the anchor. This blocks both strands so that each can be weighted independently. You could tie a Figure 8 but I like the Stone knot due to the ease of untying.

Note: Be sure to lock your biners! Mine was on the climb but I started to break down b-4 deciding to take pictures.
Next I use a Minitraxion attached to belay loop with a locking oval and a back-up Tibloc also attached to belay loop with its own locking oval.

Next I use a double length sling as a chest harness and attach it to the MiniT in order to bring it higher. this reduces flopage, and makes for a shorter fall before it catches.


So this might be a bit of over-kill but until im completely comfortable with this set-up I tie alpine butterflies on the free strand and clip to them as I climb.

The least straight-forward part is transferring weight to rappel device if you dont make it to the top but here is where I am with it as of now.

First I set up a Prussic above MiniT. I then remove the Tibloc and place it above the Prussic and grab rope below MiniT and run it up to Tibloc biner. Next I place my ATC "under" the MiniT. When you pull the tail end of rope it will raise you and allow you to disengage the MiniT and when you let go of the tail it places your weight on the Prussic (remember to be clipped to an alpine butterfly). Next clip into ATC remove MiniT. Remove Tibloc Then prussic then rappel.
Note: This is only if you dont get to the top. If you get to the top you just clip the anchor with your PAS and set-up for rappel.

Pros: With a couple of loops of rope hanging the MiniT feeds very well.

Cons:
Teeth on the MiniT and Tibloc are not Ideal. I haven't seen damage but I know its possible.

Can't rappel with MiniT.

I need to re-work the attachment of the MiniT to shoulder harness. Ideas?


aprice00


Nov 28, 2011, 9:26 PM
Post #28 of 36 (3123 views)
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Re: [aprice00] Self belay [In reply to]
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Something that I noticed as I posted is my dependance on the belay loop. I'll have to figure out how to incorporate both attachments on the harness.


seniormoose


Nov 29, 2011, 3:49 AM
Post #29 of 36 (3090 views)
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Re: [jacques] Self belay [In reply to]
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I guarantee that once you try the Petzl Micocender, you will never to back to Petzl Shunt for TR self belay. There's much less drag with the Microcender. Also if you attach the ascernder to your harness with a one-foot sling, you will fall two feet everytime you slip. Why would you want to do that? I attach my Microcender directly to my belay loop, and when I slip, I fall one or two inches.


Marylandclimber


Nov 30, 2011, 9:42 PM
Post #30 of 36 (3034 views)
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Re: [aprice00] Self belay [In reply to]
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Thanks for the pictures on your setup!


acorneau


Dec 2, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #31 of 36 (2987 views)
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Re: [aprice00] Self belay [In reply to]
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aprice00 wrote:
Something that I noticed as I posted is my dependance on the belay loop. I'll have to figure out how to incorporate both attachments on the harness.

Why? Assuming your belay loop is on good condition it's much more than adequate for the job.


aprice00


Dec 2, 2011, 5:43 PM
Post #32 of 36 (2945 views)
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Self belay [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
Thanks for the pictures on your setup!

As a disclamer for anyone thinking about using a similar set-up. You should know that there is a lot of debate over using toothed devices. Both the MiniT and the Tibloc that I use both have teeth. There have been reports of toothed devices stripping the sheath from the rope. Iam still experimenting with mine so I cant say that ive been doing it for years and have never seen problems. I simply have not put in the time to comment on rope damage. All I can say is that I watch the rope closely and so far so good. At the same time I am very carful not to get slack in the rope.

No matter what system you use the backup line is a good Idea until you are proficient enough to decide for yourself whether or not its worth it.


aprice00


Dec 2, 2011, 5:49 PM
Post #33 of 36 (2944 views)
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Re: [acorneau] Self belay [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
aprice00 wrote:
Something that I noticed as I posted is my dependance on the belay loop. I'll have to figure out how to incorporate both attachments on the harness.

Why? Assuming your belay loop is on good condition it's much more than adequate for the job.

Because its easily added redundancy....So why not?


shockabuku


Dec 2, 2011, 6:29 PM
Post #34 of 36 (2932 views)
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Re: [aprice00] Self belay [In reply to]
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aprice00 wrote:
acorneau wrote:
aprice00 wrote:
Something that I noticed as I posted is my dependance on the belay loop. I'll have to figure out how to incorporate both attachments on the harness.

Why? Assuming your belay loop is on good condition it's much more than adequate for the job.

Because its easily added redundancy....So why not?

Because it creates a bigger clusterfuck than you already have, which is sizable. Simple systems are easy to check, complex ones aren't.


Marylandclimber


Dec 3, 2011, 3:27 PM
Post #35 of 36 (2906 views)
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Re: [aprice00] Self belay [In reply to]
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I don't own one but I totally see what you mean Then again, if its more reliable then I'd use it.


aprice00


Dec 3, 2011, 6:20 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Self belay [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
aprice00 wrote:
acorneau wrote:
aprice00 wrote:
Something that I noticed as I posted is my dependance on the belay loop. I'll have to figure out how to incorporate both attachments on the harness.

Why? Assuming your belay loop is on good condition it's much more than adequate for the job.

Because its easily added redundancy....So why not?

Because it creates a bigger clusterfuck than you already have, which is sizable. Simple systems are easy to check, complex ones aren't.

Realy? big clusterfucK?? And you post about petty attachment points? Fuck that. If you want to post your set-up and show how you handle the task or have something legitimately productive to add im all ears but until then changing the position of a sling is neither more cluster-fuckish, nor more difficult to check.

Shock I'm sure you've seen people use a girth hitched slings as a PAS. This is what I use to clip the back-up line. I'd just be moving the hitch from the belay loop to both attachment points. Its an easy and elegant way to add redundancy.

Im putting myself out there by posting my set-up. I knew what I was getting into but I invite anybody else that TR solos to do the same. As in evolution, diversity is the biggest advantage to adaptation. If I see a better solution I might just convert.

There are adjustments that can be made to my system.


1. Replace the blue sling with a piece of webbing, Adds adjustability.
2. Replace the sling holding the MiniT to chest harness with something smaller. ie. small cordage or velcro (savagearic)
3. Scrap the Tibloc entirely. 1 backup is completely sufficient for the forces generated by Top Roping.
4. Use 8 on a bight at anchor opposed to stone knot. (I personally like the S.K.)
5. There are options with the primary device. Acender, microcender, Soloist, Ushba basic Acender, Grigri, Eddy, Cinch.... The back up devices are equally abundant.
IMHO a clipped back-up line and a knot on your primary line is sufficient enough for the use of ANY of these devices. With contingencies of course. (Bring on the Flames!)
6. Lastly I plan to revisit the MiniT/ATC transfer. (suggestions?)
Anticipated comments
7. Smart ass comment from some bored/drunk poster.
8. blah blah blah condescending remark.
9. YGD!!!!!!
10. Something about Overkill
11. something about microfracture-eqsue pettiness.

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