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sidepull
Jan 9, 2012, 2:52 PM
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I'm developing a small, local area. It is on public land with the boulders far off trail. Most people that spend time at the boulders are high school students getting drunk or paintball enthusiasts (ie, the area is a mess - bouldering pads protect you from broken glass more so than a broken ankle). The rock is conglomerate and fairly weak conglomerate. Perhaps choss-glomerate? That said, it is literally in my backyard and there are some problems that are fun: good movement, a bit tall, less glassy landings, slightly less chossy. So, I'd like to preserve some of the gems so that each time I climb I don't have to worry about another foothold or handhold breaking. I've never glued a problem before, so I have some basic, gluing 101 questions that I could use some help on:
1) Where do I buy glue and what kind should I buy (I assume a hard ware store, yes?).
2) Any gluing techniques? (eg., how much do I use, where do I glue, temperatures to avoid gluing in, etc.)
I'm sure I could just start doing this but if there are common mistakes that I can avoid I'd assume avoid them. Thanks in advance!
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superchuffer
Jan 9, 2012, 4:15 PM
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you are most certainly a troll, but i'll bite anyway. don't use liquid nails or epoxy. i've 'heard' sika works well: it can be formed to putty, or spread like butter.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Jan 9, 2012, 5:18 PM
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If a hold breaks just get stronger.
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sidepull
Jan 9, 2012, 5:55 PM
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superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll, but i'll bite anyway. don't use liquid nails or epoxy. i've 'heard' sika works well: it can be formed to putty, or spread like butter.
Really? Look at my post count (or any of my posts for that matter). I'm not a troll, I'm just not an area developer so, while I've climbed on glued problems before I've never been involved in the gluing.
Thanks for the input though.
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superchuffer
Jan 9, 2012, 6:04 PM
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troll acusation retracted then. most people wouldn't have the balls to post an honest question about gluing. reinforcement happens, but few admit to it for fear of retaliation from the chufftard set.
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sidepull
Jan 9, 2012, 6:53 PM
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I completely agree, that's why I was trying to be so open about the state of the area and my reasons for wanting to glue. Thanks for the retraction
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superchuffer
Jan 9, 2012, 7:00 PM
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word. for small jobs, sika 2 is premixed, in a tube, and available from Lowes. for larger jobs, a tub of sika can be gotten from a construction materials distributor. less water and it is like putty and good for placing behind flakes. more water and it spreads thinly over an area and you can add local dirt for camo and texture.
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superchuffer
Jan 9, 2012, 7:02 PM
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...and, mix in small batches as it may harden before you have time to place it.
good luck and thanks for your work!
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USnavy
Jan 10, 2012, 6:14 AM
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superchuffer wrote: can add local dirt for camo and texture.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 10, 2012, 6:15 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 10, 2012, 1:45 PM
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Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image]
I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist.
Josh
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Urban_Cowboy
Jan 10, 2012, 2:28 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh
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sp115
Jan 10, 2012, 5:47 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh
Never cooked over a campfire?
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 10, 2012, 7:42 PM
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Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe....
I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors.
Josh
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caughtinside
Jan 10, 2012, 7:48 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe.... I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors. Josh
this is great.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 10, 2012, 7:54 PM
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caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe.... I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors. Josh this is great.
On many levels. Now, before the racists hijacked the thread, I believe we were discussing glue. My feeling is that choss should be left as choss.
Josh
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caughtinside
Jan 10, 2012, 7:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe.... I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors. Josh this is great. On many levels. Now, before the racists hijacked the thread, I believe we were discussing glue. My feeling is that choss should be left as choss. Josh
You're the racist. Glue is affirmative action for choss.
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superchuffer
Jan 10, 2012, 9:52 PM
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caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe.... I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors. Josh this is great. On many levels. Now, before the racists hijacked the thread, I believe we were discussing glue. My feeling is that choss should be left as choss. Josh You're the racist. Glue is affirmative action for choss.
oh shit! that is frickin hilarious! i'm stealing it.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 10, 2012, 11:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: caughtinside wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: superchuffer wrote: you are most certainly a troll. [image]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/mojorisintn/potmeetkettle.jpg[/image] I never understood that cliche. It sounds racist. Josh Nothing racist intended. A hypocrite accusing another of hypocrisy maybe.... I know what it means. I just never understood why it meant that. Pots and tea kettles come in all different colors. Josh this is great. On many levels. Now, before the racists hijacked the thread, I believe we were discussing glue. My feeling is that choss should be left as choss. Josh You're the racist. Glue is affirmative action for choss.
Maybe I'm a gluist. Or a chossist.
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sidepull
Jan 12, 2012, 8:50 PM
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j_ung wrote: superchuffer wrote: most people wouldn't have the balls to post an honest question about gluing. reinforcement happens, but few admit to it for fear of retaliation from the chufftard set. I have to admit, I've never understood why gluing is considered so unethical. It's more ethical to knock loose rock off the wall? WTF? Of course, now I have to add some sort of stupid disclaimer. I've developed some and I've never glued, but not because I think it's unethical. I just don't want to be bothered with choss.
I agree. Didn't dreamtime get glued? I've seen glue on problems at almost every crag I've been to (and I've bouldered on 4 continents). It seems more intelligent to ask how to do it correctly rather than to mindlessly write it off as bad or, even worse, to mindlessly glue (which might include getting a bit high from the fumes).
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ianwatson
Jan 17, 2012, 9:55 PM
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It Puts The Lotion On The Skin, Or Else It Gets The Hose Again
apply this to the rock?
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ianwatson
Jan 17, 2012, 9:59 PM
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What a train wreck that thread turned into 
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j_ung
Jan 18, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Yikes. That looks pretty RC.com-ish.
It sounds like some of those areas might be a bit overglued. I suppose I can see gluing getting out of hand, especially if you have to essentially manufacture a climbable rock with the stuff. We all draw our lines. Mine would be somewhere between that and reinforcing a hold or two before they break off an established line.
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