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ryntak
Feb 16, 2012, 9:17 PM
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Hey guys my name is Ryan and there is something I need some advice on.
Last summer i visited Colorado. I went climbing in Estes park with a guide. It was the first time I'd climbed in a very long time and the first time I'd done any serious outdoor climbing. However I've been climbing on and off for about 9 years (Since I was in the second grade) last summer I became obsessed with the Diamond on Longs Peak. Recently I got a membership at my local lifetime fitness where there is a rock gym room. And I should be getting a job there in the next week. It's pretty decent. I've been training for about a week and last night I climbed my first 5.9+ I have my next 5.10a picked out. My goal is to be able to climb 5.11a before I go to climb the casual route in two summers. But here are my two issues
One I don't know how it will compare. Climbing inside and outside. The closest outdoor place to climb is in Austin and I live near Houston.
Two, what else should I do to train?
Thanks everybody!
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shockabuku
Feb 16, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Some thoughts, far from a complete assessment of your situation.
Set some intermediate, outdoor, objectives.
Find someone to learn from.
Sport climbing in Austin isn't a very complete preparation for climbing the Diamond. Enchanted Rock (near Frederick?) offers some outdoor options that include multi-pitch issues as well as crack climbing - two skills you'll want some experience with prior to the Diamond.
In two years, at your age, assuming you're a normal healthy, reasonably athletic male and you put in a reasonable amount of work, you should be able to climb easy 5.12.
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acorneau
Feb 17, 2012, 1:58 AM
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shockabuku wrote: Enchanted Rock (near Frederick?)
Enchanted Rock is just north of Fredericksburg.
What Shockabuku says is true and good advice.
-Climb in the gym as much as you can (within reason, of course).
-Once you learn how to lead get out to Austin/Reimers as much as you can.
-Once you learn to place gear on lead get out to E-Rock as
much as you can.
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ryntak
Feb 17, 2012, 4:16 AM
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Guys that's actually some useful information. I'll stick to it.
Another question. I went climbing today. I've climbed every day I could since Sunday (Sunday then Tuesday-Today) Each day my skill has improved. Each day I've gotten more sore. Each day I've gotten to a point where the previous day had been a "Quit for the day" point and pushed past it..
I feel really tired at first at this new achievement and I'm in a little pain and shaking what not. After some rest I'm fine (and at this point I stop for the day, though today I belayed my girlfriend and pushed her to conquer some routes she thought she couldn't do because of her height of 4' 11''.. And because of how tight she likes me keeping the rope it's a real strain on my arms.) Am I pushing myself too hard too fast? Because I don't feel I'm suffering. I honestly don't.
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shockabuku
Feb 17, 2012, 7:13 AM
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ryntak wrote: Guys that's actually some useful information. I'll stick to it. Another question. I went climbing today. I've climbed every day I could since Sunday (Sunday then Tuesday-Today) Each day my skill has improved. Each day I've gotten more sore. Each day I've gotten to a point where the previous day had been a "Quit for the day" point and pushed past it.. I feel really tired at first at this new achievement and I'm in a little pain and shaking what not. After some rest I'm fine (and at this point I stop for the day, though today I belayed my girlfriend and pushed her to conquer some routes she thought she couldn't do because of her height of 4' 11''.. And because of how tight she likes me keeping the rope it's a real strain on my arms.) Am I pushing myself too hard too fast? Because I don't feel I'm suffering. I honestly don't.
That's hard to say, but quite likely you're pushing too hard. Remember that your goal isn't to climb the Diamond next month, it's in two years. Overtraining is not uncommon for young climbers, particularly guys. Of course, it kind of depends on what kind of pain you're experiencing. If you are pushing too hard, and you keep it up, you'll likely cause yourself an injury that will make long term steady progress nearly impossible. Rest and recovery are pretty important especially to your fingers. Finger/tendon injuries are difficult to deal with and you can cause them pretty quickly. Always warm up thoroughly with some easy climbing, probably over at least a 20 minute time period, maybe closer to 30 minutes. If you're going to climb every day you have to be prepared not to do it at the hardest difficulty level you can manage or you will either hurt yourself or just wear yourself down and be counter-productive. Watch out for the small holds that really put strain on your fingers. The bigger holds will burn your skin, but the danger of hand injury is significantly reduced. However if you're doing powerful training on big holds you can potentially risk elbow tendonitis. Basic rule is if you start to feel something uncomfortable in your hands or elbows, go do something else or quit for the day. If it starts to become a repetitive issue, give it a few days rest.
There's a couple of good books around on training that you should consider getting. The two I'd most recommend are The Self-Coached Climber and 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. I'd start with the first one and spend some time working on the drills that it contains which are also demonstrated in the DVD that comes with it.
Oh, and never keep the belay that tight. It screws up the climbers balance which teaches you the wrong things. The purpose of the belay is to keep you safe if you fall, not to help you climb. Most experienced climbers like the belay a little loose so that the rope never pulls on them.
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ryntak
Feb 17, 2012, 3:48 PM
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I'll check those books out.
How should I convince her to not make me make it so tight on her?
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lena_chita
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Feb 17, 2012, 4:35 PM
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ryntak wrote: I'll check those books out. How should I convince her to not make me make it so tight on her?
Um, the same way you convince her of anything else. You have managed that once or twice, right?
It is pretty common for new climbers to want the rope really tight. it gives people a sense of security, but it completely screws up their ability to make any move that requires you to move side-to side, and if she is going to be climbing regularly, she needs to get over it, the sooner the better.
Take it slow, and talk her through it. Have her just let go of the wall and sit down in her harness when she is maybe 6-8 feet off the ground, with the rope really tight. Once she is O.K. doing that, have a little bit more slack in the rope, like a few inches, and have her do it again, repeatedly, until she gets a sense of how it feels to let go of the holds and have the rope stretch a bit.
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jolery
Feb 17, 2012, 5:47 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2008
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ryntak wrote: Hey guys my name is Ryan and there is something I need some advice on. Last summer i visited Colorado. I went climbing in Estes park with a guide. It was the first time I'd climbed in a very long time and the first time I'd done any serious outdoor climbing. However I've been climbing on and off for about 9 years (Since I was in the second grade) last summer I became obsessed with the Diamond on Longs Peak. Recently I got a membership at my local lifetime fitness where there is a rock gym room. And I should be getting a job there in the next week. It's pretty decent. I've been training for about a week and last night I climbed my first 5.9+ I have my next 5.10a picked out. My goal is to be able to climb 5.11a before I go to climb the casual route in two summers. But here are my two issues One I don't know how it will compare. Climbing inside and outside. The closest outdoor place to climb is in Austin and I live near Houston. Two, what else should I do to train? Thanks everybody!
Like you I am obsessed with the Diamond. Made an attempt last year and bailed at Broadway due to getting there way too late in the day. I would suggest learning how to trad climb as soon as possible. You will need to move fast and confidently to be successful on the Diamond. Placing solid gear and trusting it takes time - I see many a beginner trad climber overconfident in their gear placements until the shit hits the fan and their gear pulls. Climbing in a gym will not prepare you for the Diamond other than physical conditioning - and unless you are doing tons of laps it really is not going to help prepare you for the Diamond. Multipitch practice is essential - find the nearest multipitch to you and make it happen. Get your head right about being way up high - exposure on the Diamond is ridiculous.
Also expect to be in top cardio condition - the hike in to the climb is no joke, even harder for us lowlanders. If you are out of shape you will be so exhausted before you get on rock you will be screwed. I was in excellent shape and still found the approach brutal. If you take the direct approach up the North Chimney, be very careful about staying on route. The safest and easiest way wanders all over - get off route like we did and you are climbing shit rock that is literally falling apart in your hands - dangerous as hell and time consuming.
Good luck!
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ryntak
Feb 17, 2012, 7:30 PM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2012
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Well as far asmy plan for climbing the diamond goes I'm going to go up two weeks in advance to climb some multi pitch stuff in estes for a week to get used to the altitude and do some running. An ill do some carb loading before the climb for a few days and start my hike at 4. I also know a guy who can lead. He lives there and has climbed it a few times.
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jolery
Feb 17, 2012, 7:53 PM
Post #12 of 13
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ryntak wrote: Well as far asmy plan for climbing the diamond goes I'm going to go up two weeks in advance to climb some multi pitch stuff in estes for a week to get used to the altitude and do some running. An ill do some carb loading before the climb for a few days and start my hike at 4. I also know a guy who can lead. He lives there and has climbed it a few times.
Shit man don't let your friend do all the leads!!!
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