I have been climbing for roughly 3 weeks now and am starting to feel my muscles reacting well to this new stimulus. It is easier to climb the 5.9s I was having trouble on during my first week. Hell, even the 5.10 I climb is starting to be doable without breaks. Bottom line: my strength and endurance is coming along just fine, but my technique needs serious work.

Recently, I bought the book Self Coached Climber (aka the Bible for noobs). I have been practicing the activities the author sets forth (i.e. silent foot, pivoting, flaggin, etc.). There seems to be one serious gap in the book, however. After reading it, I don't know when to use the aforementioned techniques. For instance, I know what a drop knee does to your center of gravity and how to do it, but I don't know when to use it. I don't know what situations call for drop knees. The "Drop Knee" example isn't special. I have trouble applying all the activities. Another example would be general footwork. I know how to pivot - I know how to backstep - I know how it affects my center of gravity. However, I don't know what situation makes backstepping better than, say, "frog position".

Would you experienced folks mind helping me with my problems here? I'd greatly appreciate it.

I tend to take a different approach than jt512...instead of forcing movements on a route, I pick something thats just above my warmup range and keep conscious that no individual move should be that difficult. If I find myself making a desperate move, I can assume my technique isnt optimal. From there you can back off a bit and work the problem until the whole climb flows nicely. The advantage of "working" an easy route is you wont burn out as quick on the moves and can spend more time tweaking your technique.

Pick routes that are dead easy for you, and force yourself to use new techniques on them. For instance, pick an easy route and try to do every move with a drop knee. Then, repeat the route, trying to do every move with a backstep flag. Etc. Eventually you'll start to recognize patterns, and you'll begin to learn what works in what situations.

Jay

I know what a ______ does to your center of gravity and how to do it, but I don't know when to use it. I have trouble applying all the activities.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I want to give everyone an update about how my training at the climbing gym went tonight.

I followed the advice above and went for an "easier" route (it was one of the 5.7+s I use for warming up). I felt like all the technique I have been watching and reading really clicked tonight. I was flagging and back stepping and using my center of gravity better. The 5.7s and 5.8s started to feel like cake after an hour or so. Then I went for it - a 60' 5.9+ that I hadn't tried every before. I made it up the very first try! I think ya'll call that flashing? I don't know but it felt good! I didn't expect to see the results so quickly. Honestly, I think I have just been studying climbing way too much the past few weeks.

What's the rush? I'm not sure, really. My personality I guess. I can get really obsessive about things and become average really quickly.

I'll keep everyone up-to-date as my technique progresses.

Just a quick note that a lot of people seem to miss. Continue experimenting. If you can do a move with a drop knee, try it with a simple backstep. Then a flag. Then from a frog. Find a heel hook. Dig for a toe hook. Eventually you'll realize that even the hardest moves can be done multiple ways. Just assuming that there is only one way to do certain moves is often wrong.

As you grow as a climber, you'll almost certainly find yourself constantly using one move. You like it, it tends to work, and feels easy. Resist this urge. You're probably losing efficiency by sticking to what you like.

After reading it, I don't know when to use the aforementioned techniques. .