I agree with the op. The mags need to give as much props to 50 the year olds that do v12 as a kids. Kids repair quickly and weigh nothing.the sport is quickly moving towards glorifying anorexic, stressed out girls, just like gymnastics.

the people you mention aren't children; they went through puberty.

I started climbing when I was 28. I was a pretty natural climber, and it's in my blood, I just didn't happen to stumble into it until then.

I'm aware of the fact that since I started so late I'll never reach the potential I might have if I'd started when I was younger. But I'm fine with that. And part of what makes me so okay about that is something that I think the OP is trying to voice.

If I were a kid and I started now, and were pretty good at it, climbing would be all about gym climbing, comps, and numbers. That's not how I see climbing, and, personally, I'm very grateful I don't have that perspective.

Perhaps the OP feels similarly, but, unlike me, projects his feelings onto the sport in general. I make no claims about what might be best for Akima, or anyone else.

I admit, though, I do kinda wish the climbing world was not quite as it is. If I were to have a kid, and they had the natural talent and interest to be really good at climbing, I would feel like a shithead to keep them out of the circuit, where, no doubt, all their friends would be. Yeah, I could never do that. I guess I'd just have to subtly do my best to introduce the idea that climbing means more than that, also.

Hmm... I dunno.

GO

You describe climbing like it is some horrid 9 till 5.

More on topic. For kids to stay focused on one thing for the duration in this age of computer power and liberal upbringings is worth credit in itself.

Quoted for psoterity and to warm the misguided.

And again.

Damn Posterity.

So I have a kid who started climbing at 14. She joined a team, got really involved, started competing and did very well. We climbed all over the local couple of states where we lived (outside) and I even got her to go trad climbing with me at Eldo once. Then she finished high school, went to college in an area with, at best, a mediocre gym and very little sport climbing in the region. Now she's learning to trad climb and is captain of her school's climbing team.

If they enjoy it, really, truly, all the rest will follow.

If not, they were just dabbling, regardless of how successfully, and that's probably okay.

Kids take time to grow into things.

That's a nice story to hear. Still, in college and after college, your daughter may broaden her horizons, or maybe not. And is she typical, or more the exception?

I think if I were a kid growing up these days and I were in the comp climbing circuit, I'd be all into it... until I burnt out. And then I'd be left with all the negative associations of however it ended. I'm not sure how I'd find the space to let in the rest of what climbing means.

I mean, I did gymnastics when I was a kid. I could probably still press up from sitting into a handstand (though I'd pay for it later lol) - but gymnastics is in no way part of my life now. For most kids now, is that what climbing will become?

GO

It's hard to say but here's what I know.

Girls seem to peak in their participation around 15 years of age then drop off after that, boys seem to last a little longer with (probably) lower drop out rates.

Unlike most sports, you can continue in climbing without organized teams, leagues, etc., well into adulthood. Although organized teams are now springing up in most colleges and USA Climbing supports a competitive collegiate climbing series. The college teams seem like an interesting social function for previous youth competitive climbers to interact with peers who may run the gamut from non-climbers just starting out to people who view comp climbing as antithetical to their climbing ideals. It's an interesting mixing pot (though I admit I've only seen two of them at this point).

Is my daughter unique in her experience? Probably not. I was just out in Clear Creek the other week and ran into two kids (~14 yrs) from the BRC team walking up the road with one of their father's who did the driving and some of the belaying. They're out there, not all of them, but they are.

When my youngest went from soccer to climbing she said something to the effect of 'You know what I like about climbing? Everyone is encouraging and there's not the petty bitchiness that you have in many other sports.' I guess the other issue is that most coaches don't drive the competitive atmosphere like you see in a lot of other sports. It's really up to the kid to decide how competitive they want to be. My son has been on the same team that my daughters have been for the last few years (two different teams) and he doesn't compete. He just goes to be a better climber and have fun. They don't necessarily view climbing the way you and I do, yet, but some of it gets in.

That's a nice story to hear. Still, in college and after college, your daughter may broaden her horizons, or maybe not. And is she typical, or more the exception?

I think if I were a kid growing up these days and I were in the comp climbing circuit, I'd be all into it... until I burnt out. And then I'd be left with all the negative associations of however it ended. I'm not sure how I'd find the space to let in the rest of what climbing means.

I mean, I did gymnastics when I was a kid. I could probably still press up from sitting into a handstand (though I'd pay for it later lol) - but gymnastics is in no way part of my life now. For most kids now, is that what climbing will become?

GO

That's a nice story to hear. Still, in college and after college, your daughter may broaden her horizons, or maybe not. And is she typical, or more the exception?

I think if I were a kid growing up these days and I were in the comp climbing circuit, I'd be all into it... until I burnt out. And then I'd be left with all the negative associations of however it ended. I'm not sure how I'd find the space to let in the rest of what climbing means.

I mean, I did gymnastics when I was a kid. I could probably still press up from sitting into a handstand (though I'd pay for it later lol) - but gymnastics is in no way part of my life now. For most kids now, is that what climbing will become?

GO

Today she is a teacher of math, and for the last three years she has coached a team that she founded at her local gym in CT. She is also Regional Coordinator for USA Climbing's New England west division (shockabuku may know her from this?) and was co-Head Judge at last months Adult Nationals.

I don't know her personally, but have seen her kicking off a bunch of comps this last year. I got the impression she coaches at Carabiners but didn't know she was a math teacher.

To those young ones who excel despite having tiny reach, homework, and all other outside distractions, I applaud them for what they are right now, regardless of age. The same goes for one of my 28 year old partners who has only lead a couple of 5.9's. Personal accomplishments of any number are always exciting to watch and support.

Yes, she coaches at Carabiners in Fairfield and teaches middle school math in the hell hole that is Bridgeport.

She just took a job teaching at the Denver School of Science and Technology, and USA Climbing wants her to co-RC for the Colorado region next year. She was offered the Head Judge position at Nationals in Atlanta, but had to turn it down so she could move out to Denver.

I saw pics of Zeb leading ice this winter.