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carla_climb
Apr 2, 2012, 3:16 PM
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I have been sport climbing off and on for 15 years, but didn't take it up seriously until about 7 years ago. In the last couple of years I feel like I can't get any better... I am forever stuck at around 5.10d/5.11a. It doesn't matter what I do or how I train. In the last few months I have been targeting weak areas, which for me is mostly general strength, roofs, and bouldery types of moves. I still really love climbing, and I do notice subtle improvements, but my goal is to be able to climb 5.12 and it doesn't feel like it will ever happen. Any thoughts?
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granite_grrl
Apr 2, 2012, 4:33 PM
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There are many ways to go about this and it really depends on what motivates you enough to make sure you push hard enough to see improvments.
Personally, projecting routes just above my ability has helped me a lot. Now this isn't something just to throw yourself at, you should try to do it smartly. Sure, you need to build the endurance, strength, etc for the harder route, but you also need to improve your technique at the same time. It is very bennificial if you can get out with a thoughtful climber to help analyse your movement.
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gogounou
Apr 2, 2012, 6:42 PM
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carla_climb wrote: I have been sport climbing off and on for 15 years, but didn't take it up seriously until about 7 years ago. In the last couple of years I feel like I can't get any better... I am forever stuck at around 5.10d/5.11a. It doesn't matter what I do or how I train. In the last few months I have been targeting weak areas, which for me is mostly general strength, roofs, and bouldery types of moves. I still really love climbing, and I do notice subtle improvements, but my goal is to be able to climb 5.12 and it doesn't feel like it will ever happen. Any thoughts?
Only speaking to my own experience, but I've seen some of my best improvement when climbing consistently with people who were a bit better than I. It has been useful to me (while continuing to train areas in which I'm weaker/less adept) to watch someone work routes at my goal level - often they've found beta that I would have missed or used more refined technique that I could then work on incorporating myself. Sometimes, it's just encouraging to see the route completed by a climbing partner: it's good to see proof that it will go, and the competitive instinct that it brings up is helpful, too...
Best of luck. You'll get there.
J
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herites
Apr 2, 2012, 9:41 PM
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Project route which are above your ability. Try a 5.11b or c, preferably where you don't need closed crimps and one/two finger pockets and other moves which has a high chance of injury. Try the route as often as possible (don't forget to rest and stop when it hurts) This will build strength and will get you beta. After a while you will be able to execute all the moves on TR (maybe lacking endurance) and when you can climb on toprope withouth falls try it on lead.
Apart from projecting you could try holding your hand above each hold for 3 seconds without grabbing it on moderate routes, practicing silent feet and other footwrok improving training methods. Try training your weak muscle groups with (body)weight training, etc. After trying a route which is too hard for you, you'll know what to improve on. Try making a climbing pyramid, lot of easy routes on the bottom, your project at the top. Have people who inspire you around, preferably better climbers who have constructive feedback. These can all work to overcome your platuau, but first of all you need dedication, positive attitude and willpower to work through it. If you do it halfhearted, not really taking your training serious then it won't work.
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jt512
Apr 2, 2012, 9:45 PM
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carla_climb wrote: I have been sport climbing off and on for 15 years, but didn't take it up seriously until about 7 years ago. In the last couple of years I feel like I can't get any better... I am forever stuck at around 5.10d/5.11a. It doesn't matter what I do or how I train. In the last few months I have been targeting weak areas, which for me is mostly general strength, roofs, and bouldery types of moves. I still really love climbing, and I do notice subtle improvements, but my goal is to be able to climb 5.12 and it doesn't feel like it will ever happen. Any thoughts?
Get The Self-Coached Climber.
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carla_climb
Apr 3, 2012, 1:06 AM
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Thank you to everyone for the suggestions! I think these are all great suggestions and I will take them to heart. I do own The Self-Coached Climber; it is a great book! I am also thinking about my mental game, and maybe that I just need to believe in myself more.
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lena_chita
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Apr 3, 2012, 1:52 AM
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Your question is too general, lacks details, so it is hard to answer. Read SCC chapters about route pyramids, pick routes that are a grade or two above your best sends, as well as some more routes at the level you have sent before, and then GET on them, work out the moves, and link them.
How often are you able to go climbing? How many attempts did it take you to send the routes you have sent? And how frequently are you able to go back to thew routes that you are working on? There are no miracles, at some point you need to put in time to get that redpoint.
That means that you need to come back to the routes you are working on with some regularity.
Identify what is stopping you from redpointing a particular route. If it is endurance, work on it. If it is the inability to make certain kinds of moves, work on boulder problems in the gym that have similar moves. If all your redpoints are routes that you send on 2nd try, because the moves are not hard, and you have endurance for them, too, but on the first attempt you'd rather hang and rest, instead of taking a fall, work on the mental issues.
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climb4free
Apr 3, 2012, 5:09 AM
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jt512 wrote: Get The Self-Coached Climber.
Honestly, even though this is probably THE most given piece of advice, this book has helped me a ton. Two years ago, I felt stuck at about the same point. 5.11a/b. After ingraining the principles and breaking just a couple bad habits, I sent my first 2 5.12a's and onsighted my first 5.11a.
I would even break the book down further and focus on the book in 1/3's.
Read and fully understand the first 1/3 of the book: Technique & Body Awareness. Don't be tempted to move on until it is second nature.
The book is a combination of Common Sense & Science. But most importantly, Application.
(This post was edited by climb4free on Apr 3, 2012, 5:14 AM)
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carla_climb
Apr 4, 2012, 3:26 PM
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I will definitely revisit the Self-Coached Climber. I also think I could work more seriously on projects. I do have projects, but sometimes I get frustrated and give them up.
Thank you again, for all of the advice!
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granite_grrl
Apr 4, 2012, 3:37 PM
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carla_climb wrote: I will definitely revisit the Self-Coached Climber. I also think I could work more seriously on projects. I do have projects, but sometimes I get frustrated and give them up. Thank you again, for all of the advice!
Why are you getting frustrated working a route? Because you’re not getting any closer to sending?
Any day that you manage to learn something new should be a success. That could be identifying why you’re falling off at a certain point, figuring out that a subtle shift of your hips or engaging your core at the right time makes the difference in latching a hold or not.
Climbing is subtle. To get the most out of projecting a route I think you need to pay attention to these small things.
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carla_climb
Apr 4, 2012, 3:50 PM
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Yes, that is exactly why. A lot of V4/5.11+ moves just feel totally impossible! I do try things anyway... I guess I need to be more analytical about it.
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