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Mark_Hudon
Apr 4, 2012, 6:54 PM
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I'm starting to put PDFs of my Big Wall Tips on my El Cap Route Panorama website. There is only one there so far but I have three others in the works right now.
Check it out! Buy a Pano!
http://www.hudonpanos.com
I probably won't be doing a "moving up in your aid slings" tip but I am taking suggestions for other tips. I'll be doing Hauling, Ledge or Wall Living, I'm working on Anchors right now, Soloing...
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Gmburns2000
Apr 4, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Mark_Hudon wrote: I'm starting to put PDFs of my Big Wall Tips on my El Cap Route Panorama website. There is only one there so far but I have three others in the works right now. Check it out! Buy a Pano! http://www.hudonpanos.com I probably won't be doing a "moving up in your aid slings" tip but I am taking suggestions for other tips. I'll be doing Hauling, Ledge or Wall Living, I'm working on Anchors right now, Soloing...
Thanks Mark,
Easy to read and informative. Well done. Bookmarked for future reference.
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sf
Apr 5, 2012, 4:06 AM
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One issue I have personally struggled with is food and cooking. I like to eat healthy, fresh, digestible food on the wall, but this gets tougher to do the longer I am off the ground. Some folks can live off of junk, but my tastes seem to require bulky food, large cook sets, and refrigeration. Do you have any advice (or are you one who can live off of partially hydrogenated and freeze dried chow indefinitely)? What do you cook with? How do you do your dishes and minimize the mess? What's on the menu?
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 5, 2012, 4:15 AM
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I'm mostly a dehydrated food kind of guy. My dinners are all dehydrated. I do haul up apples, oranges, dates, cereal with dehydrated milk though. I'm sort of a food is fuel kind of guy and semi don't care what I eat. One tip I'll mention here about that, and something I've partially done, is to have my first few meals be something that requires a little bit of work, Sandwiches with sprouts, cheese, avacado, tomato, mustard, mayo, good bread, etc. I tend to eat that stuff in the early days of the climb and go for the dehydrated stuff towards the end.
Good idea for a Tips Sheet though, Thanks!
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moose_droppings
Apr 5, 2012, 4:51 AM
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sf wrote: One issue I have personally struggled with is food and cooking. I like to eat healthy, fresh, digestible food on the wall, but this gets tougher to do the longer I am off the ground. Some folks can live off of junk, but my tastes seem to require bulky food, large cook sets, and refrigeration. Do you have any advice (or are you one who can live off of partially hydrogenated and freeze dried chow indefinitely)? What do you cook with? How do you do your dishes and minimize the mess? What's on the menu?
For fine dining on a wall, I'd suggest climbing with Pete (PTPP).
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julio412
Apr 5, 2012, 12:01 PM
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If memory serves; years ago, there was a climber named Mark Hudon who was crack climbing at a level bordering superhuman with his partner Max Jones.
Is this you?Is this what happens as age advances( me included)?
We become big wall climbers?
Not that don't consider aid- climbing, it's just a different game; more mental, more faith in gear, more committing.
more work.
I planned to get back into it,probably alone
mario
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csproul
Apr 5, 2012, 2:43 PM
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Yes, it's the same Mark Hudon.
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 5, 2012, 3:05 PM
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Yeah, that's me. Max and I climbed El Cap last fall. We hadn't done any real climbing together in 30 years. I wrote a TR about it over at SuperTopo. If you search for it in the TR section, you'll find it.
I still like to free climb and have dreams and plans for Freerider soon.
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billcoe_
Apr 5, 2012, 10:12 PM
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Holy crap Mark. You're a hell of an inspiration.
No joke.
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 6, 2012, 1:34 AM
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Thanks but all I have is crazy confidence in my abilities (wether they warrant it or not) and more Desire than anyone I know.
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guangzhou
Apr 6, 2012, 2:54 AM
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Mark, book marked your site for future reference. I'd like to do the NIAD with my wife before I turn 50. Still have a few years.
Would be great if you shared you weight lifting program. Not that it matters much to be honest, I'm very bad at sticking with a workout in the weight room usually.
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 6, 2012, 3:23 PM
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The Nose in a Day is all about being able to ramble up 5.10b/c and endurance. You have to just keep going and going and going full steam till you get to the top. If you're climbing full time, training is no problem, if you are not that lucky, lifting weights and 30-45 minutes laps on a wall are a must.
I'd rather suffer in the gym than suffer on the climb so training comes easy to me.
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Apr 6, 2012, 7:16 PM)
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shimanilami
Apr 6, 2012, 10:00 PM
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sf wrote: One issue I have personally struggled with is food and cooking. I like to eat healthy, fresh, digestible food on the wall, but this gets tougher to do the longer I am off the ground. Some folks can live off of junk, but my tastes seem to require bulky food, large cook sets, and refrigeration. Do you have any advice (or are you one who can live off of partially hydrogenated and freeze dried chow indefinitely)? What do you cook with? How do you do your dishes and minimize the mess? What's on the menu?
Freeze dried or dehydrated food makes no sense on a wall. You'll have to carry the water anyway (unless, of course, you can get water/ice on the wall). Why bother with the hassle of removing H20 only to mix it back in later? It's not like it remains fresher that way.
I bring the best canned food I can find. Or I make soup and pack it in Nalgene's. Another trick I'm pretty proud of is to buy a gourmet burrito, freeze it, and stuff it in a tennis ball can. It's good for a couple days at least. Apples, oranges, and carrots all pack pretty good. Smoked salmon keeps well but can get messy. PB, honey and bagels all travel well, too. And now you can get those Indian food dishes in the foil pouches....
Actually, now that I think about it, it would be sweet to have a long list of wall-worthy foods to make a menu from. I've got some good ideas, but I'd love to hear some new ones.
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 6, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Believe me, if you are a good cook and want to figure out the meals for a wall then I want to climb a wall with you!
So the best canned food money can buy gives you what advantage? I'll bet that it weighs the same as a dehydrated meal plus the water it takes to hydrate it. Your Burrito trick is nice but it's still a cold meal. Yes to fresh fruit and those Indian food pouches.
All I need to do to cook the meal is usually boil two cups of water with my hanging Jetboil, pour it into the food pouch, stir it up and let it sit for 10 minutes. Eat it right out of the pouch, lick my spoon clean and I'm done!
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Apr 6, 2012, 11:05 PM)
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shimanilami
Apr 6, 2012, 11:17 PM
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I think the question should be, "What is the advantage of dehydrated food?" It is certainly more of a hassle than simply cracking open a can. Of course, if someone else is willing to go through the trouble, then I won't stand in their way! I'll take care of the after dinner drinks!
Ultimately, I'm no food critic when I'm on a wall. Everything tastes like fine cuisine when you're sitting on your ledge after a hard day of climbing!
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 6, 2012, 11:24 PM
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Of course, opinions will vary, but a cold can of ravioli is no where near as tasty or nutritious as a common dehydrated meal. (Have you eaten a dehydrated meal lately? I know that back when I was a Boy Scout they really sucked but these days they aren't bad at all) And I would consider you correct to say that preparing a dehydrated meal is more of a hassle than opening a can, if I was hanging from a hammock like we used to do in the past. But now, with double ledges, hanging stoves, the ease of boiling water, I don't know, that doesn't sound like much effort to me.
Maybe YOU need to do a wall with ME. 
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Apr 7, 2012, 1:33 AM)
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guangzhou
Apr 7, 2012, 2:16 AM
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My favorite Big Wall food are MRE, Meals ready to eat.
They offer a full menu inside one convenient bag. Include toilet paer too. Before headed up the wall, I remove all cardboard wrappings inside the waterproof proof, then reseal the pooch with duct tape.
I usually pack two per person per day. Each meal also has a no flame heather for heating it's content. Just add a bit of water tot he chemical-pack and wait for the chemistry to begin.
You can get these meals in vegetarian options too.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meal,_Ready-to-Eat
Like so many things in life, some are better than others. Not sure how varieties they are, but over 20 meals for sure.
Cheers
Eman
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stagg54
Apr 7, 2012, 3:54 AM
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guangzhou wrote: My favorite Big Wall food are MRE, Meals ready to eat. [image]http://www.longlifefood.com/images/MRE_Full_w_Heater.jpg[/image] They offer a full menu inside one convenient bag. Include toilet paer too. Before headed up the wall, I remove all cardboard wrappings inside the waterproof proof, then reseal the pooch with duct tape. I usually pack two per person per day. Each meal also has a no flame heather for heating it's content. Just add a bit of water tot he chemical-pack and wait for the chemistry to begin. You can get these meals in vegetarian options too. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meal,_Ready-to-Eat Like so many things in life, some are better than others. Not sure how varieties they are, but over 20 meals for sure. Cheers Eman
The other great thing about MRE's is that if that is all you bring you can probably leave the poop tube at home (at least for anything under a week)
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cobbledik
Apr 9, 2012, 9:34 PM
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one of the tricks a friend of mine uses is to take those meals that are made to be boiled in their own package (tasty treats or the chili verde/carne asada packets in the packaged meat section by the sausages) and make those.
The benefit is that after you have the hot food, you can put the water in a nalgene and take it to bed with you,once it cools off it reverts back to te drinking water stock.
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personally too much work for me as I fall into the powerbar, gorp, and beef jerky diet on the wall.
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dehydrated food tastes amazing these days. We have a lot of the Mountain House stuff at my summer camp for the backpacking program; those kids are living like kings out on the trail.
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doktor_g
Apr 15, 2012, 7:34 AM
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Jeeze you guys are going fancy. My meals are boring and repeat every day.
Breakfast:
Cereal w/dehydrated milk
Hot Black Coffee (Starbucks Via)
Cigarette
Poop
CLIMB... and whine
Lunch:
Jerky
GU
Jolly Ranchers
Fruit Cups
CLIMB... and whine
Dinner:
Snacks (goldfish are common)
2 tortillas with tuna and cheese sticks and hotsauce
Chocolate or fruit / veggie cup
Whiskey
Cigarette
Music
Sleep
Repeat
(This post was edited by doktor_g on Apr 15, 2012, 7:36 AM)
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USnavy
Apr 16, 2012, 12:13 PM
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shimanilami wrote: sf wrote: One issue I have personally struggled with is food and cooking. I like to eat healthy, fresh, digestible food on the wall, but this gets tougher to do the longer I am off the ground. Some folks can live off of junk, but my tastes seem to require bulky food, large cook sets, and refrigeration. Do you have any advice (or are you one who can live off of partially hydrogenated and freeze dried chow indefinitely)? What do you cook with? How do you do your dishes and minimize the mess? What's on the menu? Freeze dried or dehydrated food makes no sense on a wall. You'll have to carry the water anyway (unless, of course, you can get water/ice on the wall). Why bother with the hassle of removing H20 only to mix it back in later? It's not like it remains fresher that way.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 16, 2012, 12:15 PM)
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USnavy
Apr 16, 2012, 12:21 PM
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sf wrote: In reply to: For fine dining on a wall, I'd suggest climbing with Pete (PTPP). I've witnessed how PTPP rolls, and I doubt there is enough food in the valley to replace all of the calories I'd burn after a week of being his counter balance bitch. 
Note, that was not the only food he brought up on the wall, there was other stuff as well. If I recall right, that was just for a two man party. Talk about making El Cap grade VII.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 16, 2012, 12:23 PM)
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Mark_Hudon
Apr 16, 2012, 3:06 PM
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Pete wants me to do a wall with him, and I like Big Wall Camping to a point, but he's too far into it for me.
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