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OK.. Hexs or Tri-cams?
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climbingpride


Jan 6, 2003, 3:53 AM
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OK.. Hexs or Tri-cams?
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Ok i climbing mainly where there are pockets, mainly small ones. In those cases the small tri-cams would work. Plus they work even in Parallel cracks. Hexs are cool, but i'm not that sure if i will be climbing cracks that much. But 8 hexs for $55 at acme is freaken cheap! Tri-cams are more expensive, and i have not worked my way up to cams yet.

So what should this partime bus-boy get with his new paychecks?


epic_ed


Jan 6, 2003, 6:19 AM
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Where you climb will determine what gear will get the most utility, but as an "overall" opinion, I'd rather have more tri-cams. I have hexes that I rarely use. In fact, they rarely make my rack. I also have almost 50 cams of nearly every shape and size, but tri-cams make my rack on almost every trip--and I'm refering exclusively to the smaller sizes (through #3). Just placed one this weekend where nothing else would work.

Ed

PS -- And if I were paying attention, I'd have seen that you live in the same area as me. Go with tri-cams and I'll sell you my hexes if you're really interested.

[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-05 22:22 ]


tradklime


Jan 6, 2003, 8:33 PM
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My opinion, forget hexes all together, no matter where you live. Tricams are great. Although, consider saving your money for an inexpensive set of cams, such as from acmeclimbing.com, in the long run you'll be happy you did.


rprp


Jan 7, 2003, 12:55 AM
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The tricams are an old design so they are heavy. I wish they would be reengineered for lighter weight. I use the two or three smallest regularly since they will go in places that cams won't such as some pockets.

The bigger tricams are too heavy to be worthwhile.

On the flip side, I don't have much use for small hexes since the small cams do more and don't weigh much. Sometimes we will use big hexes instead of taking extra large cams. The big cams are bulky and heavy, so the hexes can keep you trim.

Consider using the tricams and hexes in your anchors and keeping the cams free for the next lead.

[ This Message was edited by: rprp on 2003-01-06 17:00 ]


rprp


Jan 7, 2003, 1:02 AM
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Oh, and if you do get hexes, get light weight ones. We've been happy with the Rockcentrics.


climbingpride


Jan 7, 2003, 10:37 PM
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I think i will be going with the Tri-cams, for now. Sence i mainly sport, and do not wish to do full trad lines for now. I would just like to kinda "play around" with some trad-pro that would kinda ease me into trad with out fully relying on my placements, and adding to the amount of pro on the face for better protection of me and my life.

For the tri cams i was thinking of going here for a set of tri-cams (.5-4) for $140.

Tell me what you think?


scotia


Jan 7, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Tri to the Cams


repete


Jan 7, 2003, 11:23 PM
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go with the tri-cams but if i where you i would only get the three or four smallest sizes, double up on the pink. For bigger pieces hold out untill you have some cash and buy some larger cams. You will be happy you did.


tanner


Jan 7, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Get the first 3 sizes and get 2 pinks and 2 reds thats all you need in tri cams the rest are heavy and hard to place.


stevematthys


Jan 8, 2003, 12:46 AM
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i like tri-cams more


alpinelynx


Jan 8, 2003, 1:59 AM
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this may be another topic but, when would you use a tri-cam over a regular cam?


jahmin


Jan 8, 2003, 2:04 AM
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They excel in horizontal cracks and pockets.


alpinelynx


Jan 8, 2003, 5:48 AM
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thanks!


farmerc


Jan 8, 2003, 6:05 AM
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I don't use cams partly by choice and partly by lack of funds. Thus my lead rack consists of a set of nuts, a set of hexes, and a set of tricams. The tricams I own are all of the solid metal ones, not the riveted ones. I will get them sometime to carry in lieu of my bigger hexes (although, i think i would be too sad to give up my biggest hexes, number black, and his little brother number purple)
~Chris


birdbreak


Jan 8, 2003, 6:26 AM
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The answer probably depends upon what sort of climbing you do, what type of rock you are climbing on, what your friends like, and various other things.
Tricams are mandatory in the Gunks and many other places. There very light, cheap, great range, and they can be used passive like a nut in a lot of places. They are great in solution pockets and pin scars. I only use the pink ones. Sometimes they work where nothing else is good. They make good backups for the yellow and orange Metolius TCU's.
Hexes are more durable and weigh more but if you decide to use Hexes use (wired hexes) there great! Used them last winter for mixed climbing and found them easier to place and less fiddly than the slung hexes - put a bit of duct tape below the hex to pull strands of wire together and then hex doesn't slip down the wires - you can teeter on your crampons and thread that perfect hex placement above you before going for the crux axe-mantle move...

Todd Nelson

[ This Message was edited by: birdbreak on 2003-01-08 18:34 ]


tanner


Jan 8, 2003, 6:26 AM
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I would use a tri cam over a cam any chance I have. Why, I want to save my cams for when I really need them. Also the smaller tricams are almost as fast to place as a cam if you know what your doing. Some pockets protect best with tricams, horisontal crack protect well. They are lighter and cheeper than cams so you can carry more. Also they are great for building anchers. On almost every route I climb I place both of my pink tricams.


climbingpride


Jan 8, 2003, 9:22 PM
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WOW! Thanks alot, your insites from those of you more expriecened then me helps a ton in this area.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Pride

*says to self "OK. 2 red, 2 pink, and..and..what was it? Oh yeah a brown."


furryfrisbee


Jan 8, 2003, 9:35 PM
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Try getting them here instead. Better prices, and I've ALWAYS had good dealings with them, and I will be going back for my next tri-cams.

http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=G&Category_Code=CAP


nimo


Jan 8, 2003, 9:36 PM
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I also like tricams for many reasons and use them all the time. The smallest 4 are the great and go with me almost all the time. The 2.5 and the 3 I have for specific climbs but rarely use or carry due to their weight. The 3.5-4.5 are too heavy for their size and I have not found them worthwhile. The #5 and #6 are great and vary light for their size and highly recommend them.


tradguy


Jan 8, 2003, 9:48 PM
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If you climb alot of pocketed routes, tri-cams are ok. I personally have the smallest 6 that I never use for anything other than the ever-so-rare tope rope setup (ie - I don't think I've placed any of them in 2 or 3 years, despite carrying them lots of places). For the most part, I think tri-cams are a waste. They are expensive and heavy compared to hexes in the medium to large sizes, and not nearly as nice as cams in the smaller sizes. The ONLY place that tri-cams are worthwhile is for mono and two-finger pockets, where the pocket is smaller than the width of a cam head. Thus, the only ones worth even considering buying are the 3 smallest - pink, red, brown.

My suggestion (and this is only because you specifically said you climb on pocketed routes) is to get 1 each of the 3 smallest, and see how you like them. Then save some money and buy some cheaper mid-sized cams (check out rei-outlet for clog cams in the $20-$30 range - cheaper than the larger tri-cams). Use both the tri-cams and the cams until you figure out what you like best, and then get more of those.

Then when you want to get into more involved trad climbing, pick up a set of Wild Country Rockcentric curved hexes on Dyneema, since they are cheap, light, strong, and versatile.


sspssp


Jan 8, 2003, 9:51 PM
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I agree with NIMO on the size/usefullness of tri-cams.

But I disagree with BIRDBREAK on getting wired versus slung hexes. In the very smallest sizes, wired ones could be better because you can't get your fingers into the crack to place them. For the larger sizes I would rather have them slung as it allows for more placement options and with a flexible sling you wouldn't have to add an additional sling as you would with the wires. Its true the wire allows a slightly higher placement, but I usually only place hexes from good stances around chest/face level.
Hexes are cheap pieces to bail with and a light way to add more large pieces. I like the Rockcentrics.


gakin


Jan 9, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Like other people stated, it really depends on what type of rock you are climbing. With pockets, tri's are a sure deal. I do have a set of hexs, but I mainly use them to set anchor systems. Go with the smaller tri's, and then possibly save up for some cam's. Another thing to keep in mind, for me, is that setting a tri can be pretty tricky when hanging off a face...that is just me though.


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