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turtle54
Apr 22, 2012, 2:33 AM
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hey, chicos! i'm going to boulder to catch up with a friend this june. from there, we're planning to drive down to moab for an epic journey into the desert my doubts: - would it be climbable, or it'd be too damn hot? - we climb 5.11 sport, but suck at trad and crack climbing (probably would do a 5.8 hanging on the draws for 1h, but will have fun).. do you recommend routes, crags or towers for moab- begginers?? please, well protected routes.. - any other area around we should not miss? thanks for the help!! abraços, marcos rio de janeiro/brasil
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marc801
Apr 22, 2012, 2:50 PM
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turtle54 wrote: hey, chicos! i'm going to boulder to catch up with a friend this june. from there, we're planning to drive down to moab for an epic journey into the desert my doubts: - would it be climbable, or it'd be too damn hot? - we climb 5.11 sport, but suck at trad and crack climbing (probably would do a 5.8 hanging on the draws for 1h, but will have fun).. do you recommend routes, crags or towers for moab- begginers?? please, well protected routes.. - any other area around we should not miss? thanks for the help!! abraços, marcos rio de janeiro/brasil Most climbers would consider June in Moab too hot, although you can follow the shade. Expect extremely warm to very hot temperatures. I certainly wouldn't plan it as a major destination trip for that time of year. Do some investigation of alternate areas in case you decide Moab is unclimbable. There are very few sport routes in and around Moab, with Mill Creek Canyon being the exception. Although, while Mill Creek is technically sport, the routes are rather run-out compared to other sport climbing areas.
(This post was edited by marc801 on Apr 22, 2012, 2:53 PM)
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sungam
Apr 22, 2012, 4:04 PM
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marc801 wrote: There are very few sport routes in and around Moab, with Mill Creek Canyon being the exception. Although, while Mill Creek is technically sport, the routes are rather run-out compared to other sport climbing areas. Some of the routes in Mill Creek are well protected. I'm certainly not saying most are, just that if you get there and realise you don't want to do anything scary there are still possibilities.
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shockabuku
Apr 22, 2012, 4:10 PM
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turtle54 wrote: hey, chicos! i'm going to boulder to catch up with a friend this june. from there, we're planning to drive down to moab for an epic journey into the desert my doubts: - would it be climbable, or it'd be too damn hot? - we climb 5.11 sport, but suck at trad and crack climbing (probably would do a 5.8 hanging on the draws for 1h, but will have fun).. do you recommend routes, crags or towers for moab- begginers?? please, well protected routes.. - any other area around we should not miss? thanks for the help!! abraços, marcos rio de janeiro/brasil Given all the other possible destinations as close to Boulder, many with excellent sport climbing, why are you going to Moab at that time of the year?
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turtle54
Apr 24, 2012, 3:34 AM
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well first, it's the only time i could have my vacations and come to USA second, i've always dreamed of climbing in Moab. i've been there about 10 years ago, but wasnt climbing back then. third, thats why im writing to you guys, to find out other possibilities.. could you help me out?? cheers, marcos
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shockabuku
Apr 24, 2012, 6:13 AM
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Sport climbing in June from Boulder. My daughter has gone to Maple Canyon (couple of hours farther west) in July. It's cobble stone sport climbing. It might allow for a couple of days in the Moab area and then some more dedicated sport climbing. Personally I would go north to Tensleep Canyon in Wyoming. Lots of sport climbing with grades that you can appreciate and the weather (minus the random rain/snow storm) is pretty good that time of year. Wild Iris might also be an option. Shelf Road is an option though it is also pretty warm in June. Of course there is lots of sport climbing closer to Boulder in smaller areas. And maybe close to Moab also, I'm not so familiar with Utah as Colorado. So, if you really want to go back to the Utah desert I'm probably not the right source.
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turtle54
Apr 26, 2012, 1:59 AM
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i'm open to any suggestions!! maple canyon, tensleep, red rocks what else? ibex? joes valley?? or too hot in june?? we'd take anything from moderate sport (<5.11) and easy trad (<5.10)!! what do you recommend??
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climbingaggie03
Apr 26, 2012, 2:18 AM
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I just got back from moab, we got caught in the sun for a couple of hours and it was torture. If you follow shade, you might be ok, but I kinda doubt it. If you're headed to moab, I'd stop at rifle along the way. You also might enjoy some of the climbing in summit county. I'd go to tensleep, and Devils tower, the tower is amazing and the climbing is pretty good.
(This post was edited by climbingaggie03 on Apr 26, 2012, 2:19 AM)
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turtle54
Apr 26, 2012, 2:40 AM
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just mind that we're from brazil, used to lots of sun. we definitely dont like it, but unfortunately its too hot all over the country in summer. the only chance would be not to climb at all during summer, but thats not an option.. could we get around climbing in moab trying to find routes in the shade??
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marc801
Apr 26, 2012, 5:49 AM
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turtle54 wrote: just mind that we're from brazil, used to lots of sun. But not used to how arid the high desert can be. Add in the elevation and the sun feels more intense than what you are used to in Brazil.
turtle54 wrote: could we get around climbing in moab trying to find routes in the shade?? Yes, but... the majority of the largest concentration of climbs faces mostly southeast and south. It's a bit easier to chase the shade in Indian Creek (an hour south), but that may be more trad and gear intensive than you want. There are no bolted sport routes in IC.
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