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critterdude542
May 3, 2012, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2008
Posts: 32
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So my main lead rope, a sterling Ion2 9.4 just got this really bizarre marking on it. The rope is super dirty so its hard to tell exactly where this happened on the rope but it looks like only one side of the rope has been burnt, not abraded, not frizzy, but it almost looks like someone took a lighter to the whole side of it and singed it.
It's worse on one end and appears almost glossy (it actually reflects a little bit of light). It feels coarse, not nice and smooth like the opposite side of the rope. It does NOT wash out so i know it's not excess dirt but looks like the sheath has been slightly melted.
The day it happened was a pretty normal cragging day, probably used it for a total of 15 pitches lowering from most routes. it was at Smith so most routes were equipped with rap rings, fixed hardware in good shape, or permanent project draws. The rope saw about 4 good falls, 2 of them being upwards of 20 feet, but were nice soft catches.
The only thing different is that this was the first day I had used a pair of gloves to belay. It was just a pair of goatskin leather gloves that I had bought from Ace hardware. Only thing i can think of is that maybe the gloves created enough heat while lowering to burn the rope. But I never felt ANY excess heat through the gloves while lowering my partner. I Took an old retired rope and ran my hand in the glove back and forth along the rope and felt significant heat.
I am at a loss. Anyone had anything like this happen??
I'll try to post some pics of it later
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gunkiemike
May 3, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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Even modest falls can glaze the sheath if the rope is rubbed hard against something as it's moving under load. Happened to me a couple weeks ago. Heck, I've glazed a rope just pulling down a hard-to-pull rappel.
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acorneau
May 4, 2012, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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What GunkieMike said... you glazed your rope.
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tower_climber
May 4, 2012, 3:31 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
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acorneau wrote: What GunkieMike said... you glazed your rope.
+1
I usually find that this happens frequently when a belayer starts using gloves. With gloves, you are able to lower the climber much faster without getting rope burns on your palms. Faster lowering causes higher temperatures on the contact surfaces of the belay device. The belay device in turn glazes the sheath of the rope. That is why the glazing is worse near the ends of the rope.
Lower your climber slower. And ditch the gloves.
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caughtinside
May 4, 2012, 4:31 AM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Fast raps can glaze a rope as well.
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2012-05-03 14.49.57.jpg
